diy solar

diy solar

5280W solar max for the Mppt charger. can i exceed?

Have you read the warranty?
Dude, LOL I'm literally the #6 Victron Product Expert in the world... yes, I'm quite familiar with the warranty. And the spec sheet, where it states a maximum Isc input current, and footnote 2 that says a higher Isc input current may damage the controller, and also Article 3 ss2 of the Victron warranty that states "...warranty does not cover damage caused by improper installation, reverse current, or exceeding the device voltage or current limits..."

Now, other manufacturers may not have that - particularly if they don't store a history that's easily recoverable- so I can't speak for them. Though, actually, I'm passably familiar with Midnite Solar MPPTs and their warranty and they have similar language as well.

More to the point... why in god's name would you ever even try to put 100A of solar into an MPPT?? That's an incredible waste considering that you can -as demonstrated above- get 100A out to a 12v nominal bank by inputting as little as 7A at 200v (using a 250/100, obviously you'd have to adjust that with lower-v controllers).
 
Oh man so many experts...

why in god's name would you ever even try to put 100A of solar into an MPPT?? That's an incredible waste

Cause you can? Cause its what you have?Maybe because youre runinng 18v panels 40ft? And you got an mppt because no one makes a bluetooth pwm? Who cares we talking theory anyway.

To the actual point...why would you buy a 100A controller that has an absolute 60A hard input limit no matter the voltage?
 
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And the spec sheet, where it states a maximum Isc input current, and footnote 2 that says a higher Isc input current may damage the controller, and also Article 3 ss2 of the Victron warranty that states "..

Funny that makes exactly the point I was trying to get across the other "expert" who did exactly what you have tried to do....conflate AMPS with current with an mppt controller.

Voltage matters bro...
 
Funny that makes exactly the point I was trying to get across the other "expert" who did exactly what you have tried to do....conflate AMPS with current.

Voltage matters bro...
Max Isc is max Isc. Why is this so difficult? And I still want to know why you would ever try to put that much current into an SCC, that's a horrifyingly inefficient use of your panels.
 
Yeah why is it so difficult? Youre a supposed victron retailer or whatever. You dont know why someone expects to get 100A or close to it from a 100a controller? Is that what you're saying?
 
Lol you dont know why someone expects to get 100A or close to it from a 100a controller?
Wow... you really have no idea how an MPPT works? I explained this before. You don't need to put 100A IN to get 100A OUT, because in your own words, voltage matters.
7A @200vDC IN = ~103.70A OUT @13.5vDC
 
Wow... you really have no idea how an MPPT works? I explained this before. You don't need to put 100A IN to get 100A OUT, because in your own words, voltage matters.
7A @200vDC IN = ~103.70A OUT @13.5vDC

Yeah and....?

What the hell, I'll climb in: A 100A SCC is rated for output current at battery voltage, not input current at panel voltage. Just because it can output 100A to a battery at 13.5 or 14.4 doesn't mean that it can take 100A input at 75 or 100 or 150v, and it shouldn't be able to do that... this is very basic math.

Nobody thinks a 100A controller can take 100a at 150v. No one anywhere said any such thing in any way, shape, or form. In fact the direct opposite was being conveyed. 100A @ 15v is not the same CURRENT input as 100A 150v. Theres no hard amp input as per your 7A example besides exceed the controller output by large margins.

You can put 97, 99, 100A into a controller granted theres no extra voltage for boosting over that. Not why would you. It's just an example.
 
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Yeah and....?
Sooooo if you can get your full 100A charge current to your batteries from 7A input at high voltage from your array, for the third time: why in god's name would you try to put 100A into the MPPT?? You're literally not gaining anything, and you're just shedding godawful amounts of energy as heat through the heatsink. Lord, man, this is not a complex concept here - are you arguing with me because you genuinely don't understand this principle, or just to be difficult?
 
Ahhhhhh I see that you're creatively editing your answers to look less foolish. Well, 100A at 15v won't do you any good either... which you'd also know if you understood how an MPPT works. Okay. I'm out of this conversation, that's about all the nonsense I can take. ?
 
Damn i was hoping you could teach me about mppt :(

Maybe read a thread for context before spouting off wrong information...
 
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Damn i was hoping you could teach me about mppt :(

Maybe read a thread for context before spouting off wrong information...

Justin had the context down pretty well for not getting all of the threads drivel.

And he summed up perfectly and much more directly than i could have, but i did tell you an 'im not able to fully respond version of what he laid out.

Nobody is capping your creative juices here...... but its kindof an information hub for important topics to people which also have critical safety details to observe and expensive equipments to protect from damage caused by their installation.

So im going to say do not exceed specs.... i do not even know how i got that far into this to look now.... with someone on the other end saying its ridiculous, i should never have answered but for the benifit of not letting it be thought this could be ok unless expressly indicated in the devices intended operating capability and safety allowances under all conditions it could possibly operate in....

Even a total failure or unintended contact of any conductor in the device.

Thats the current rating, its what melts stuff and causes fires.

The pv line has to be able to be shorted in the control at least momentarily to be safe to operate. And the terminals have to be able to maintain shape and tension on the conductors and handle max current or bad stuff is going to happen.

Some pv sources have no overcurrent protection. Which is safe as long as all critical details in the chain of components are capable of handling it.

If im not mistaken, you were roughly saying that someone could put any size pv source up to max output current on a controller and it does not matter because it will only draw the rated controller amps.

For a lower understanding level, you and i can call it paper, rock, scissors.

Justin is a bulldog! Thats funny and appropriate. He nailed me once for vaugely suggesting a fuse be used without its holder! I agree, hes right and its not safe to leave information on here that could too easily be misconstrued to ill effect. We would fascimilate the copper holding tab...... in my secret project, it cannot with conscience be said is fine for someone to do without reservation. Someone was looking for a parts hack type solution and Justin was not having it!

Fun stuff. Which is why it is important to keep the standard up. And im glad for it, even when im wrong. But it takes an understanding of the meaning of communications and.....

In radio we call this QRM or interference. The ansewer to which is to ignore or switch channels if its being done to no good effect on communications.
 
Yes you can do it. I nearly double the max wattage on mine.

Wattage input figures are irrelevant. Its simply assuming x wattage = max charge amps.

What some posters here dont understand is you cant go over the amperage rating (or voltage). If its a 100A controller do not go far over 100A input. That can be 10kw on a cloudy day...it can be 2kw on a sunny day. Wattage is irrelevant.

This is a noner.... watts indicated sometimes could be gone over on someones own judgment, like after seeing a current limit! I say could because its hard to tell if its suggested for another reason we definitely......dont need to get into and needs to be checked with the manufacture if there is no current rating on the input side which is the case of the original post.
 
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