diy solar

diy solar

60V Disconnect disconnection overload?

Their hardware choices were obviously intended for a different application. The silver screws in the front for panel mounting are too long. If you bottom out those screws, it will crack the breaker housing. I’m mounting them in a steel panel and had to get shorter screws.
 
I resorted to the rtfm approach and I will be leaving the washers... https://www.carlingtech.com/circuit-termination#4

"Threaded Stud Terminals
Threaded stud terminals are designed to affix connecting wires, fork or rings connectors to the circuit breaker by tightened hex nuts that fit a stud terminal. For each threaded stud terminal, Carling Technologies supplies two hex nuts and two flat washers. Designed for higher amperage ratings, these terminals are considered the most reliable and sturdy form of connection.

Carling C-Series and E-Series circuit breakers offer 10-32 and 1/4-20 threaded stud terminals. C-Series breakers also offer M5 and M6 threaded stud terminals. Carling's F-Series circuit breakers offer 3/8-16 threaded stud terminals.

10-32 and M5 stud terminals are rated up to 50 amps. 1/4-20 and M6 stud terminals are rated up to 100 amps. 3/8-16 stud terminals are rated up to 250 amps."
 
Thanks for following up. I wish I remembered to grab the FLIR before I left work so I could have compared with and without.

I have two of these. One I use for work in tight spaces and the other I keep in the house for my solar setup. Super handy for DIYers. The frame rate is low, but if you stabilize it on a target the interpolation is very close to my FLIR at less than 1/20th the cost.

$65

Thermal Imager Camera, Digital Thermal Imager 2.8in LCD Screen Display Temperature Multifunctional 320x240 Resolution with SPI Flash Chip for Industrial Use https://a.co/d/1Qxg4zU
 
I have two of these. One I use for work in tight spaces and the other I keep in the house for my solar setup. Super handy for DIYers. The frame rate is low, but if you stabilize it on a target the interpolation is very close to my FLIR at less than 1/20th the cost.

$65

Thermal Imager Camera, Digital Thermal Imager 2.8in LCD Screen Display Temperature Multifunctional 320x240 Resolution with SPI Flash Chip for Industrial Use https://a.co/d/1Qxg4zU
Thanks. Is the one linked the same you ordered?
I've looked at them and others similar numerous times on amazon and ali.
 
Yes. Same one.

I'm not attempting to dissuade someone from buying a nice FLIR or other handheld. But if those things are out of your $ range, these are viable, useful alternative. Especially for beginners or the less mechanically inclined. It makes spotting a loose electrical connection very easy.
 
Thanks again, not that FLIR is out of my range, it's my frugality realizing I'm hardly ever going to use it and I don't need extreme precision when I do... It will suffice to spot any issues.
If I were using it to spot hvac leaks, electrical issues, failing bearings, etc as part of my career I'd have already ordered the best....
Money saved goes towards cells, panels, and copper ?
 
I have a SEEK Compact PRO because I didn't like the idea of a separate battery to maintain in the FLIR. The way FLIR combines the thermal image and lines from a visual image is very nice though.
 
I never did update this with the final outcome, photos attached if someone else comes along, things have been running great.
 

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for t class fuse I used an EV fuse from a Chevy volt. they should still have some on eBay. Mine came from the Chevy volt battery packs I previously used for solar storage. You could drill them out and not use a holder or use the holder from the EV
 
I came across this BEP model in a different thread. I don’t know anything about it other than the advertised specs so not sure if it is good or not.

I like the breaker box you made. I had thought about something like that for a diy combiner box and using inline mc4 fuses for the fuse side of it. Hadn’t thought about it for the battery busbar setup.
 
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I came across this BEP model in a different thread. I don’t know anything about it other than the advertised specs so not sure if it is good or not.

I like the breaker box you made. I had thought about something like that for a diy combiner box and using inline mc4 fuses for the fuse side of it. Hadn’t thought about it for the battery busbar setup.
Thanks.
I completely missed your reply and came to this thread to share it with you in the other thread I saw you posting in.

It's been working flawlessly, I've used the breakers (at low loads) quite a few times to disconnect packs and the buss bar came in very handy for adding an additional SCC.
 
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