8k vs 10k dual inverter AC for cargo camper?

[gooby]

I have a 3.6kw ecoflow system and plan on upgrading to 7.2kw. Panels are going on next month, likely 1200-1400w on the roof.

I am debating which AC to get. FYI, 90% of the time I will be on shore power. The small percent of time I am boondocking, will be in good weather. This is really only for rare situations where it is hot out and I need to cool down my trailer, or for some slight night time cooling. My current 6k is great in shade or at night, horrible with direct sun. Can't keep up. The insulation is 1% foam board and pretty weakly done, but it is too late and cannot be redone(all the panels are glued, would be a nightmare).

I am thinking one of these new efficient AC's.
https://www.lg.com/us/air-conditioners/lg-lw8022ivsm-window-air-conditioner#
vs

LG 10,000 BTU DUAL Inverter Smart Wi-Fi Enabled Window Air Conditioner (LW1022IVSM) | LG USA

Shop LG LW1022IVSM on the official LG.com website for the most up to date information. Buy online for delivery or in-store pick-up.

www.lg.com

Trailer is a 6.5'x16' aluminum trailer. The roof panels should mitigate some of the incoming heat when I get the solar rack put on. Reflectix on the windows as needed. My understanding is these efficient new AC's use less power than my current 6k btu setup. The energy cost rating on the 10k is the same $/yr as my current 6k, and the 8k is 30% less. Thoughts on these? I don't want to go too overkill, but if i am on shore power 90% of the time, and only occasionally boondocking, would it make more sense to go with the 10k vs the 8k? Thanks.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

First, you will get better runtime using components vs the echoflow method for the same money.

That aside, IF a 10,000 btu has the same energy consumption as an 8k BTUs unit you will get better service life out of the bigger unit in my opinion. Plus, if you’re maxing out a 6k or at least crowding it, the headroom for the 10k BTUs might be wanted.

My current 6k is great in shade or at night, horrible with direct sun. Can't keep up.

Being that you can run the consumption now, if 10k BTU unit is the same that won’t be a problem PLUS you don’t know what the ‘can’t keep up’ margin is. 66% more versus 33% more output is twice as betterer than the 8k.

The insulation is 1% foam board and pretty weakly done, but it is too late and cannot be redone(all the panels are glued, would be a nightmare)

So… what ‘I’ would do is use another 1” or 1-1/2” foil-faced foam over the walls and ceilings and foil-tape the seams and caulk the top and bottom edges, glueing them to the walls and adhering new ‘paneling’ over that- fit everything as tight as possible when it’s cooler (so shrinking and splitting when it is cooler is less of a concern) and carry on. I don’t fight heat so much, but here in Vermont I fight cold. Insulation and moisture control is everything. It’s everything.

 

[Johneb]

You could also apply a coat or two of Henrys kool koat found at Lowe's, Home depot, Menards etc. It will drop the roof temp by about 15 degrees.

 

[gooby]

You could also apply a coat or two of Henrys kool koat found at Lowe's, Home depot, Menards etc. It will drop the roof temp by about 15 degrees.

Can I do this on the aluminum roofing? And will this affect the solar panels ability to generate power or no?

 

[Johneb]

Yes, aluminum roofing is fine. It is a silicon based sealent usex by many who have old roofs on rv's. Your panels would be above the coating so no problem. I would get your panel mounts installed then apply the coating. It will help to seal up any possibility of leaks.

 

[John Frum]

A cooler roof may mean cooler pv panels.
Cooler pv panels perform better.

 

[Johneb]

What John Frum said!

 

[12VoltInstalls]

is a silicon based sealent

Silicone.
Silicon isn’t quite the same consistency…

 

[Johneb]

That e always escapes.?

 

[Vigo]

I agree with paneling over the paneling. Also agree with roof coating. I think you should get the 10k, since it’s an inverter unit it will still ‘throttle down’ to a very low level that will make it both economical and tolerable noise-wise to air condition even at night.

If you do all of the above you’re probably gonna love it. It will most likely only take about 250-400w continuous to maintain a decent temp in a well-insulated 6x16 even in full sun, which means unless you have a bunch of other laods you can Ac ‘for free’ for most of the day because youll have the solar to cover it.

 

[gooby]

I agree with paneling over the paneling. Also agree with roof coating. I think you should get the 10k, since it’s an inverter unit it will still ‘throttle down’ to a very low level that will make it both economical and tolerable noise-wise to air condition even at night.

If you do all of the above you’re probably gonna love it. It will most likely only take about 250-400w continuous to maintain a decent temp in a well-insulated 6x16 even in full sun, which means unless you have a bunch of other laods you can Ac ‘for free’ for most of the day because youll have the solar to cover it.

I'm about to order the 10k, the only thing is, these are DEEP units, I'll be sticking out about 18 inches from the rear of the trailer. I'm not sure this is an issue, though. Thoughts? 24.5" depth on this unit, vs my current unit at 13.7". So about 10-11 inches longer in terms of depth.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I'll be sticking out about 18 inches

umm.
Well, you should fabricate some brackets to take the pressure off the unit’s pogo load on the door anyway.

 

[Vigo]

I havent checked the forum for 2 weeks but now that it's probably too late... if you are worried about how far it sticks out you can either add support on the outside, or slide it further in until you hit the edge of the side vents. The vents on the side are the 'inlet' for the condenser fan, which 'exhausts' at the rear. So you can slide the unit further INTO the door/trailer, right up until you start to cover those inlets on the side, which is where you should stop.

 

[eXodus]

Get a Midea U - Inverter Window A/C 10.000 BTU - it will just run at less capacity when you don't need it.

amazing units those things.

The windows are giant heat gains - get some exterior awnings to get the sun of the windows. Reflectix is to late - the heat already entered the inside - yes some of it gets reflected but not enough. Exterior sun protection is more effective.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

some of it gets reflected but not enough. Exterior sun protection is more effective

The window shading films applied to the glass are more effective than reflectix in this application if awnings aren’t an option. Reflectix on the outside looks wonky but would work- disadvantages are that you can’t see through it and weatherproofing is dubious. If reflecting heat is the priority I’d look at the window films pretty seriously.