justinm001
Solar Addict
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 1,534
Finally getting around to installing solar on the cargo trailer (7x16) we tow behind the RV. The goal is to install some POE cameras and a NVR inside the trailer then use it as backup cameras over wifi when driving or as a security system when parked. On top of this I want the solar to keep the batteries topped off incase I leave the lights inside on (have multiple strips of LED lights). I plan on having a 1000w MSW cheap inverter or so with some power strips and connected to things like drill battery chargers so it can keep those charged. Currently there's 100ah 12v Renogy SLA battery although might upgrade this to 4x6v GC2's from my old rv in series parallel giving 460ah or so.
When driving or connected to the RV I want the panels to charge my 48V bank and then the RV provides 30a power from the 12V pin on the 7pin adapter.
Currently I installed 10x100w renogy panels on 1/2 height channel struts. I need to get more struts and hoping to get 2000w total solar.
I bought these brackets https://a.co/d/jaOxqfk but seems like there's just too much wasted space between the panels. looks like there's 28mm gap. I saw these https://a.co/d/5EpDfJY but looks like its a few mm smaller but still not happy with the gap. Any better options? I like the struts as they can easily be secured to the interior frame and holds the roof together better.
Haven't figured the best option to switch the solar from trailer mode to RV mode I'm thinking on putting 150v mppts on both the RV and trailer then using anderson plugs to just unplug from trailer mode and plug into rv mode. The problem is if the RV is off the 12V pin would be off and trailer batteries aren't charging. To combat this I have a Blue Sea M-LVD which will disconnect a device when the voltage gets low https://a.co/d/bQWI7pS This means I can shut it off at 30% or so and still use it for trailer breakaway brakes.
Another option is to just dedicate 1 or more panels to the trailer and the rest to the RV. The lights alone are like 90 watts and if the camera system is 60w thats 150w total or 3.6kw per day. guessing on these numbers.
I still need to add more struts and determine how many panels will fit and how to wire them up.
Ideally I'd be able to easily switch 5 panels from series to parallel then use a cheap 12V PWM controller for the trailer which I already have and then I could switch from using 1500w to the RV and 500w to the trailer or all 2000w to the RV. Even better if it was a digital relay then I could have something digitally send a signal so when the trailer battery is under 80% it'll take the solar but when its above it'll send to the RV. Any thoughts?
BTW we use the trailer only sometimes so most of the time its sitting in our heavily shaded woods at home. When we use it we're typically on a day/weekend trip at auctions where we'll be loading stuff up and boondocking all day. Also we have airbnbs and remodel them so use it to transport equipment and tools to work out of when we're remodeling for the weekend. Ideally we wouldn't need to plug in the RV and rely for the weekend on solar but its a powerhog and we have 15 amp socket and long extension cords to at least help keep the batteries charged.
And yes the trailers a bit banged up especially for a 21, driving a 40ft RV with a 20ft trailer through back country roads and old small towns is nearly impossible.
When driving or connected to the RV I want the panels to charge my 48V bank and then the RV provides 30a power from the 12V pin on the 7pin adapter.
Currently I installed 10x100w renogy panels on 1/2 height channel struts. I need to get more struts and hoping to get 2000w total solar.
I bought these brackets https://a.co/d/jaOxqfk but seems like there's just too much wasted space between the panels. looks like there's 28mm gap. I saw these https://a.co/d/5EpDfJY but looks like its a few mm smaller but still not happy with the gap. Any better options? I like the struts as they can easily be secured to the interior frame and holds the roof together better.
Haven't figured the best option to switch the solar from trailer mode to RV mode I'm thinking on putting 150v mppts on both the RV and trailer then using anderson plugs to just unplug from trailer mode and plug into rv mode. The problem is if the RV is off the 12V pin would be off and trailer batteries aren't charging. To combat this I have a Blue Sea M-LVD which will disconnect a device when the voltage gets low https://a.co/d/bQWI7pS This means I can shut it off at 30% or so and still use it for trailer breakaway brakes.
Another option is to just dedicate 1 or more panels to the trailer and the rest to the RV. The lights alone are like 90 watts and if the camera system is 60w thats 150w total or 3.6kw per day. guessing on these numbers.
I still need to add more struts and determine how many panels will fit and how to wire them up.
Ideally I'd be able to easily switch 5 panels from series to parallel then use a cheap 12V PWM controller for the trailer which I already have and then I could switch from using 1500w to the RV and 500w to the trailer or all 2000w to the RV. Even better if it was a digital relay then I could have something digitally send a signal so when the trailer battery is under 80% it'll take the solar but when its above it'll send to the RV. Any thoughts?
BTW we use the trailer only sometimes so most of the time its sitting in our heavily shaded woods at home. When we use it we're typically on a day/weekend trip at auctions where we'll be loading stuff up and boondocking all day. Also we have airbnbs and remodel them so use it to transport equipment and tools to work out of when we're remodeling for the weekend. Ideally we wouldn't need to plug in the RV and rely for the weekend on solar but its a powerhog and we have 15 amp socket and long extension cords to at least help keep the batteries charged.
And yes the trailers a bit banged up especially for a 21, driving a 40ft RV with a 20ft trailer through back country roads and old small towns is nearly impossible.
