Go to the ABYC website and sign up for the free 7 day membership. Then you will have access for 7 days, and be able to download the standard.Its too bad these requirements can’t be shared with those of us not in the boat building or repair industry.
They are grouped together.Hi all. It seems that these references are only to Lithium Ion batteries and not to LiFePo4 chemistry.
Other than this thread a few months ago...I don't think ABYC has addressed LiFePo4 specific chemistry?
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Letter from ABYC President re LiFePo4 safety on boats
I hope they release a good complete report with photos and such. Interesting work done. ABYC President's Message Common Sense ABYC is built on a tradition of common sense and real world experiences. Early in my technical days, I was told ABYC designed the Standards...diysolarforum.com
They group them together because there is still the possibility (however slight it may be) of thermal runaway with LFP4, and the way you protect against it is similar Enough to other lithium batteries.Interesting. I haven't read the ABYC E-13 standards, just various boating articles on this. Seemed like everything was focused around Lithium Ion because of concerns of potential thermal runaway.
Well Im glad to hear that you think raw cells can meet E-13. It's a much better way to control charge sources and to allow for separate load / charge bus.A diy cell based most certainly can meet E-13. In fact, its preferred. There are more issues with drop-ins with E-13 than cell based.
Where you run into trouble is that many insurance companies want LFP installed by a professional. So it might need to be a pro installed cell based. But that also applies to drop ins, and is an insurance issue not E-13.
If a professional instal is required for insurance purposes, then Victron may be the way to go. What you over pay for the battery you will save in the install costs. I'm sure their 330ah battery (330 at a 20c. discharge rate) is just a CALB or EVE 304ah. See size and weight specs here: https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...lithium-iron-phosphate-batteries-Smart-EN.pdfE-13 does not require UL listing. Victron would be an excellent choice if you want to be ABYC compliant. If you stay with the Victron ecosystem and add a wakespeed regulator controlled by the Victron BMS you will have exactly what ABYC intends or recommends people do. You probably couldn't do any better-which is why they demand a high price.
Another excellent choice would be DIY with Winson/CALB/Sinopoly cells, and a REC BMS controlling a wakespeed.
Down on the list are DIY with DALY or Overkill BMS, which meet ABYC requirements, but not recommendations. Decent communication via an app, ability to monitor or test cells with a voltmeter, but no control of charge sources.
Last choice would be the cheaper drop-ins, where there is little or no way of knowing what is going on inside, and no communication with charge sources.
Yes i thought that too (all Winstons) , but some of the newer batteries seem to be both lighter and smaller than the older models. For eg. the old Smart 300ah is 51 kg vs. the newer the smart 330ah is 30kg. Also, max discharge is 2C for the old battery and 1.4C for the newer one, suggesting a change in the cells. May just be a typo on the data sheet...Unless they have changed, victron uses Winston cells.
Interestingly, I just noticed that REC released a new firmware (2.8.1) that comes in to flavours. Both versions will disconnect the charge contactor in case of an over voltage condition, however the behaviour differs when dealing with an under voltage situation. The -1 version will disconnect both charge and discharge contactors in case of an under voltage alarm. The -2 version will only disconnect the discharge contactor.E-13 does not require UL listing. Victron would be an excellent choice if you want to be ABYC compliant. If you stay with the Victron ecosystem and add a wakespeed regulator controlled by the Victron BMS you will have exactly what ABYC intends or recommends people do. You probably couldn't do any better-which is why they demand a high price.
Another excellent choice would be DIY with Winson/CALB/Sinopoly cells, and a REC BMS controlling a wakespeed.
Down on the list are DIY with DALY or Overkill BMS, which meet ABYC requirements, but not recommendations. Decent communication via an app, ability to monitor or test cells with a voltmeter, but no control of charge sources.
Last choice would be the cheaper drop-ins, where there is little or no way of knowing what is going on inside, and no communication with charge sources.
Curious. I can't imagine they would use a 304Ah cell in a 330Ah battery. Unless they are letting marketing run things. I have a 300Ah battery made from 100Ah Calb cells. The cells individually test at 110-115Ah, and I get 330+ from the battery. But I would never consider it 330Ah.Yes i thought that too (all Winstons) , but some of the newer batteries seem to be both lighter and smaller than the older models. For eg. the old Smart 300ah is 51 kg vs. the newer the smart 330ah is 30kg. Also, max discharge is 2C for the old battery and 1.4C for the newer one, suggesting a change in the cells. May just be a typo on the data sheet...
Still a great product. I am considering two of the older 160ah models for a 2P, 12volt set up.
Well it won't be me who opens one up.Curious. I can't imagine they would use a 304Ah cell in a 330Ah battery. Unless they are letting marketing run things. I have a 300Ah battery made from 100Ah Calb cells. The cells individually test at 110-115Ah, and I get 330+ from the battery. But I would never consider it 330Ah.
Someone with more money than me should buy a newer Victron and cut it open.