diy solar

diy solar

Batteries keep dying.

I just posted a comment on Will's latest YouTube poll on Battleborn Batteries, and he invited me to post it here to see if anyone can help diagnose this issue.

Short version is my Battleborn batteries (LiFePO4) keep dying after about a year of use. (It's happened twice), even though I think my system is well over-engineered for my usage. The long version can get very detailed, so I'm not sure how much to put here.

My system:
  • 4 12v 100Ah Battleborn Batteries in series and then parallel for a 24v 200Ah bank.
  • Victron Multiplus 3000w inverter/charger
  • Victron 150/85 solar charge controller
  • 6 360w PV panels combined in a combiner box for 3 strings of 2
  • Bare minimum of 2 awg cabling (this has been changed recently)
  • Full video walkthrough of my current system here -
Typical usage for the whole house during the day is somewhere between 200-500 watts. Though my son and I are both gamers and if we're both running our gaming rigs, usage will rise up to about 700-800 watts. We also have a microwave, and for the few minutes that's running a day, it might pull 1500w total for the house.

My current suspicions lie with the Victron inverter, although we just sent it in to someone who's supposed to be the best diagnostician for those devices. And he supposedly ran it through the wringer and gave it a clean bill of health as long as you ignore the weirdness he experienced that then went away.

My reasons for suspecting the inverter charger are that it just keeps acting weird:
  • It is the only part of the system that was present during both battery failures. All cabling and all 4 batteries were replaced between the first failure and the second.
  • For about 8 months we were using it exclusively to charge the batteries from a gas generator, as we didn't have our PV panels in and working yet, and we still use that method to charge the batteries when we have several cloudy days in a row. So it's had plenty of opportunity.
  • It trips the generator's overload protection (a 8750 watt generator) if we are pulling anything over 100 watts when we connect the Multiplus to the generator. We have to shut down everything in the house before we try to charge the batteries off the Multiplus. After the initial startup, we can turn everything back on and it's fine.
  • If instead, we switch it from "Inverter Only" mode to "Charger Only" mode after the generator is running and connected, it does not trip the generator overload. It does however lose power to the house for up to 6 or 7 seconds while it switches over.
  • It also sometimes trips the generator's overload protection when the batteries reach fully charged voltage.
  • Sometimes when batteries reach full charge, the inverter shuts off electricity to the house for a second or two. This might oscillate on and off two or three times before it stays on.
  • When these battery issues first started happening for the second time, I noticed the inverter was shorting out the batteries, and I had continuity tone between the positive and negative battery terminals on the inverter, even when nothing else was connected to the Multiplus. That issue resolved itself by disconnecting the batteries for a while and then reconnecting them.
  • On another recent instance, I had just individually charged my batteries to full using a separate 12v charger and was hooking them back up to the inverter. Once I had everything connected and tightened and turned the battery switch back on, I measured voltage across the battery bank (of just two of the batteries) and got 4 volts. Finding that exceedingly curious with two batteries that I had just charged to full, I measured them individually, and one of them (connected to negative) was reading just fine at 14.2V, and the other one was reading -10V. That's negative 10 volts. I know what you're thinking, that I had my probes switched. I didn't. I checked it multiple times. (And also, 14 - 10 is 4, exactly what they read together) And when I disconnected the battery switch, they both went back to 14.2V. Somehow, that inverter was pulling voltage from both batteries in opposite directions with nothing but a jumper cable between them.
  • When we sent it in to a Victron Service Center and they hooked it up to their batteries, the inverter read low battery alarm even with full batteries. They "fixed" it by doing a factory reset on the inverter and flashing the firmware/software, but they couldn't explain how it happened.

Anyway, I'm sure more detail is needed, but perhaps it would be faster to ask specific questions and I can answer them.

TIA, I know it's a long read.
Maybe if you had access to another inverter and everything behaved normally.. then you know that it’s the Multiplus...
 
One other thing: You said Victron reflashed firmware and reset everything. Did you re-program it with the settings you want? The Multiplus line has a TON of settings, things for max charge current, bulk/absorb/float voltages, etc. What are those things all set to?
No, First of all, I haven't gotten the Inverter back from the service center yet. Should be getting here soon. Also, this Service Center is apparently Battleborn's go-to place, and they do all the programming there. I bought the Multiplus through Battleborn's site, and it came preprogrammed for their batteries. When I got it, there are only a couple of settings available through the Victron Connect app - switching the mode and maybe amperage limit? Everything else was locked down, and I didn't see everything I see in the Demo Library for the same device. Again it's not here atm, and I can't check it. I did buy the special USB cable that can connect to the Multiplus (forget what it's called) so I can use the VEConfigure software, but I haven't opened it yet.

Also, just to reiterate, even after disconnecting the batteries entirely, with the inverter just sitting by itself on the wall, I was getting continuity tone from the Positive to Negative battery lugs on the inverter. I left it alone for some 24 hours or so, and on the advice of my BB tech, reconnected it, and then the short wasn't there anymore.

No fuse between the inverter and the batteries? Shorting out as in continuous or just to charge the capacitors on the input? Do you have a pre-charge circuit?

At the time, no. Now I have a 100A circuit breaker in there (recent addition). At the time of the short and the -10 volt reading, I was already in troubleshooting mode. I was eliminating factors one by one, so at this point I had all other devices disconnected and was connecting the battery bank directly to the inverter. It was shorting out continuously, or at least for a good 10 seconds. I didn't leave it connected for more than that. I don't have a pre-charge circuit, I don't think. I don't even know what that is.
Maybe if you had access to another inverter and everything behaved normally.. then you know that it’s the Multiplus...
I did buy another inverter, and that doesn't have any of the issue that the Multiplus has, but I have only been running it for a few weeks. So if there's something that's slowly killing the batteries over the course of a year, I wouldn't be seeing a result from that yet. I am trying to work with my BB tech to find a method for testing to try to see this problem developing before it arrives at "dead." He's got me measuring the inter-bank cables between the batteries with a clamp-on amp meter once a month or so and recording the readings. But I don't know if that's going to be granular enough.
Yes, exactly - makes no sense. Especially when after disconnecting the inverter everything is suddenly ok again.
I completely understanding the inclination to think I'm crazy over the -10v reading. I considered that possibility myself for 30 long seconds while I was reading it. My multimeter is a cheapy from Harbor Freight, so ....? But it hasn't given me any reason to doubt it in any other case. And like I said, I checked it multiple times just to prove to myself that I wasn't crazy or dreaming. I know about switching the leads and getting negative readings. I wasn't doing that. All I can tell you is, I'm not an idiot, and I'm not careless. I double and triple check everything. Walk through the entire circuit every time before I flip the battery switch on to make sure I haven't done something stupid, make sure all nuts are snug and connections are good. I don't have an explanation for you, and if I read it from someone else on the Internet, I would conclude the same thing you did - that can't happen. All I can tell you is what I saw. Two batteries connected in series directly to the inverter with nothing else on the circuit other than the smart shunt (on the negative) and the battery switch (on the positive). 14.2 volts on the multimeter on the negative-side battery. Negative 10 volts on the positive side battery. 4.2 volts across them both. After I checked it several times I threw my hands up, disconnected the battery switch and went inside to spend the night in the dark. That's when I ordered the backup inverter.

Also, the "disconnect the inverter and everything's alright again" wasn't the Negative 10v reading. That happened with the the shorting out issue. Different times separated by..... maybe a week? The negative 10v reading resolved itself only have I got two new batteries shipped to me and connected everything back up again. I did use the Victron inverter a bit after that and everything seemed ok. But I was babying the heck out of it because I didn't trust it. Had the input amperage locked down to like 8 or 9 amps (AC), I think, in the Victron Connect app.
 
No, First of all, I haven't gotten the Inverter back from the service center yet. Should be getting here soon. Also, this Service Center is apparently Battleborn's go-to place, and they do all the programming there. I bought the Multiplus through Battleborn's site, and it came preprogrammed for their batteries. When I got it, there are only a couple of settings available through the Victron Connect app - switching the mode and maybe amperage limit? Everything else was locked down, and I didn't see everything I see in the Demo Library for the same device. Again it's not here atm, and I can't check it. I did buy the special USB cable that can connect to the Multiplus (forget what it's called) so I can use the VEConfigure software, but I haven't opened it yet.

Also, just to reiterate, even after disconnecting the batteries entirely, with the inverter just sitting by itself on the wall, I was getting continuity tone from the Positive to Negative battery lugs on the inverter. I left it alone for some 24 hours or so, and on the advice of my BB tech, reconnected it, and then the short wasn't there anymore.



At the time, no. Now I have a 100A circuit breaker in there (recent addition). At the time of the short and the -10 volt reading, I was already in troubleshooting mode. I was eliminating factors one by one, so at this point I had all other devices disconnected and was connecting the battery bank directly to the inverter. It was shorting out continuously, or at least for a good 10 seconds. I didn't leave it connected for more than that. I don't have a pre-charge circuit, I don't think. I don't even know what that is.

I did buy another inverter, and that doesn't have any of the issue that the Multiplus has, but I have only been running it for a few weeks. So if there's something that's slowly killing the batteries over the course of a year, I wouldn't be seeing a result from that yet. I am trying to work with my BB tech to find a method for testing to try to see this problem developing before it arrives at "dead." He's got me measuring the inter-bank cables between the batteries with a clamp-on amp meter once a month or so and recording the readings. But I don't know if that's going to be granular enough.

I completely understanding the inclination to think I'm crazy over the -10v reading. I considered that possibility myself for 30 long seconds while I was reading it. My multimeter is a cheapy from Harbor Freight, so ....? But it hasn't given me any reason to doubt it in any other case. And like I said, I checked it multiple times just to prove to myself that I wasn't crazy or dreaming. I know about switching the leads and getting negative readings. I wasn't doing that. All I can tell you is, I'm not an idiot, and I'm not careless. I double and triple check everything. Walk through the entire circuit every time before I flip the battery switch on to make sure I haven't done something stupid, make sure all nuts are snug and connections are good. I don't have an explanation for you, and if I read it from someone else on the Internet, I would conclude the same thing you did - that can't happen. All I can tell you is what I saw. Two batteries connected in series directly to the inverter with nothing else on the circuit other than the smart shunt (on the negative) and the battery switch (on the positive). 14.2 volts on the multimeter on the negative-side battery. Negative 10 volts on the positive side battery. 4.2 volts across them both. After I checked it several times I threw my hands up, disconnected the battery switch and went inside to spend the night in the dark. That's when I ordered the backup inverter.

Also, the "disconnect the inverter and everything's alright again" wasn't the Negative 10v reading. That happened with the the shorting out issue. Different times separated by..... maybe a week? The negative 10v reading resolved itself only have I got two new batteries shipped to me and connected everything back up again. I did use the Victron inverter a bit after that and everything seemed ok. But I was babying the heck out of it because I didn't trust it. Had the input amperage locked down to like 8 or 9 amps (AC), I think, in the Victron Connect
Are your batteries grounded..? I’m aware that this is a thing in some installations.. but many are not.. just thinking out loud really.. slow ground leak...
 
Also just for context, here's how the issue initially presented itself. Everything's been going great for a year. No issues - we basically know our system and know what it can handle almost intuitively. Not that we never run the batteries down to zero, but it's only maybe 3 or 4 times a year when we haven't checked on the batteries in a few days, and then the lights go out, and we're like "Oh yeah, that makes sense." Then we charge them back up to full and everything's fine again.

Only one night, my son and I were gaming and we knew we were running them down pretty low, but we were just wrapping up for the night when the lights went out. But when we checked, the SOC from the smart shut still said 11%, when that thing is pretty dang on most of the time - within a percentage point or two. So we thought it was weird, but we immediately ran the generator and charged the batteries back up to full and just chalked it up to a fluke. The next night the same thing happened, only at 32% SOC. Then the next night at 42%.

That's when I started getting serious about it, and the first thing I did was disconnect the batteries and try individually charging them with a 12v charger (AIMS, LiFePo4 setting), thinking it must be a balancing issue. But when I hooked them all back up, one of the four batteries was at like 12v I think (memory's getting fuzzy at this point), and another was at zero volts. Could my AIMS charger have done something? Maybe. It was acting a little weird and making some unusual clicking noises while hooking it up to the battery. It's been a trusty charger for a few years though, and I don't know why it would suddenly not be.

So that's when I started trying to limp along on just two batteries while I contacted BattleBorn, and that's when I had the shorting issue.

The incident the year before happened almost exactly the same way - suddenly and rapidly losing battery capacity for no apparent reason.
 
In the top loop there are 2 14V batteries. Voltage readings around the loop add up to zero Kirchoff's law). In the lower loop the left battery has shut down and now instead of being a current source it becomes a load. Again the sum of the voltages in the loop will be zero. This explains the voltage readings that OP had.
IMG_4693.JPG
 
Are your batteries grounded..? I’m aware that this is a thing in some installations.. but many are not.. just thinking out loud really.. slow ground leak...
Actually, this might be close. My Multiplus is grounded to a proper ground rod just outside the battery box, which is the only ground in the whole system. But inside the house, there are a few LED lights that still glow when they're turned off, which I've read might be a grounding issue, but grounding is definitely magic to me - I don't understand it, just know to do it. We had an local electrician look at it last summer, and grounding the Multiplus was his recommendation. But the lights still glow with the switch off. The batteries sit on a thick rubber mat inside a wooden box on wooden legs. They are not grounded to anything other than through the inverter itself

As far as I can tell from Internet research, though, Having a single grounding point is the right way to do it, and the Multiplus' grounding lug seems the best option as far as I know.
 
Actually, this might be close. My Multiplus is grounded to a proper ground rod just outside the battery box, which is the only ground in the whole system. But inside the house, there are a few LED lights that still glow when they're turned off, which I've read might be a grounding issue, but grounding is definitely magic to me - I don't understand it, just know to do it. We had an local electrician look at it last summer, and grounding the Multiplus was his recommendation. But the lights still glow with the switch off.

As far as I can tell from Internet research, though, Having a single grounding point is the right way to do it, and the Multiplus' grounding lug seems the best option as far as I know.
It seems that grounding is one of those topics that is definitely open to endless discussion... I’ve read a bit of stuff about grounding... like yourself I don’t really have a grasp on it.. Victron def recommends grounding of inverter casings I believe.. and also I’ve read that one ground rod is best practice.. but other than that.. I wonder how to measure what’s being absorbed into the ground..?
 
This may be my first post here, but I have been lurking for a couple of years. Have you thought of adding a battery balancer to your system? I have four SOK 206 AH 12 volt batteries in series parallel for 24 volt. I use the Victron battery balancer for my system. Just a thought and observation.
 
This may be my first post here, but I have been lurking for a couple of years. Have you thought of adding a battery balancer to your system? I have four SOK 206 AH 12 volt batteries in series parallel for 24 volt. I use the Victron battery balancer for my system. Just a thought and observation.
Bing bing bing.
Looking through the thread to see, and you popped up with it.
 
This may be my first post here, but I have been lurking for a couple of years. Have you thought of adding a battery balancer to your system? I have four SOK 206 AH 12 volt batteries in series parallel for 24 volt. I use the Victron battery balancer for my system. Just a thought and observation.
I haven't thought of it. I guess I thought the BMS's would figure that sort of thing out, or maybe I thought that if I needed it Battleborn would have recommended it at some point. I will look into this new thing.
 
I’m wondering if the OP had monitored the batteries individually to see if they were staying in balance with each other. As said before throughout the forum. If you need 24 volt Lifepo4, get a 24 volts battery. Same can be said for 48volt.
 
I’m wondering if the OP had monitored the batteries individually to see if they were staying in balance with each other. As said before throughout the forum. If you need 24 volt Lifepo4, get a 24 volts battery. Same can be said for 48volt.
Honestly this rings true to me in hindsight. But for what it's worth, I consulted Battleborn before I bought the batteries to see what they recommended, and this was their recommendation, (thinking back over 2 years ago) or at least they said it would work perfectly fine. But it does seem like the two strings of two adds complexity and points of failure that aren't necessary. I think if I had to do it all over again, I would rather do it your way, possibly keeping it to just one big battery if I could. Given what I have now, though, perhaps the battery balancer is the best option. And also, take Battleborn's advice with a grain of salt from now on. Though, I still think the Multiplus is acting weird too.
 
I haven't thought of it. I guess I thought the BMS's would figure that sort of thing out, or maybe I thought that if I needed it Battleborn would have recommended it at some point. I will look into this new thing.
I’ve seen some info on their website about series use but can’t find it now. BB site is lacking. Basic rule for series, parallel charge first then assemble and use. Monitor and bring up the low battery individually with a 12 volt charger as needed. Several companies make balancers for 24, 36 and 48 systems that work well
 
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I’ve seen some info on their website about series use but can’t find it now. BB site is lacking. Basic rule for series, parallel charge first then assemble and use. Monitor and bring up the low battery individually with a 12 volt charger as needed. Several companies make balancers for 24, 36 and 48 systems that work well
Hm.. found this which seems to suggest the battery balancer is at least not necessary or perhaps even not recommended? Depending on how you read his tone.

 
Honestly, this brings up another issue. I've seen this before in other solar forums. It seems like the types of people who frequent these forums tend to be more sanctimonious and judgmental than vegans. The common thread seems to be "Don't question the group think." Instead of actually trying to solve the problem you just want to preach your own personal opinions and preferences, rather than actually understanding the underlying physics and trying to help.

I came to this community from an invitation and offer to help, but the only thing I've learned here is that your opinions and expertise aren't worth more than "Here's what worked for me, and I don't understand anything deeper than that." You really should try to focus on helping people with where they are, rather than just trying to tell them what to do with a condescending attitude. Anyone who's only solution to a problem is "throw more money at it" isn't an expert and shouldn't portray themselves as such.
Will is a nice guy or I think he is having never met him in person, but you are 100% correct on the average and not so average person here on the forum... they are stuck in a bubble about how special they are...just like vegans.
 
Will is a nice guy or I think he is having never met him in person, but you are 100% correct on the average and not so average person here on the forum... they are stuck in a bubble about how special they are...just like vegans.

Generalization much? I think the vast majority, especially those actively trying to answer people's questions, do so because they genuinely want to help out and don't think they're 'special' or 'in a bubble'. We all have different set-ups, different requirements, and trying to understand other's generally takes a bit of back and forth.
 
You have a Smart Shunt, which means you have the ability to do midpoint monitoring. This can show you when the batteries are getting out of balance, and you can intervene to fix problemsbefore they get serious. Might be worth the time to do this for a few days to determine if adding the balancers might help ... or maybe simply reducing charge rate would help keep things balanced.

Or double the battery bank so you don't work the batteries so hard.
 
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