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Battery Cable 1/0 upgrade

My first 2000w inverter came with 2 cables. One was CCA and the other was copper. I only used them for a couple hours to test the inverter and verify it wasn't DOA and when I disconnected the cables the CCA end was black and clearly overheated. Since then anytime I run across a CCA cable here I just toss it in the trash/metal recycle.
 
This is the item: Xaugiry 1/0 Gauge Wire(20ft Each - Red/Black) Copper Clad Aluminum CCA 1pcs 250A ANL Fuse Holder-Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable,Car Audio Speaker Stereo,Primary Automotive Wire,RV Trailer Wiring https://a.co/d/05rKPxfL
I wouldn’t trust this at all.

At one place in their ad they call it “CCA Copper.” That’s misleading at best. They couldn’t even make the effort to properly spell the stamping on the wire (“Standerd” and “High Gureent”). They use meaningless terms like “True Gauge Spec” while omitting important things like the temp rating. It all just seems scammy. Also that ANL fuse holder looks an awful lot like brass. I’d measure resistance before putting any current through it. And they claim the lugs have corrosion protection, but that isn’t apparent; looks like raw copper to me. Which is fine, but not accurately described.

If it were me, I’d rip it all out and replace it with quality. You could get a 6-foot set of high quality 4/0 properly-lugged pure copper battery cables from Windy Nation for $107, shipping included, and sleep well in your RV.
 
Damn not the feedback I wanted, but that is why I asked.

I thought it was copper with aluminum clad not the other way around crap crap crap. But what is needed is needed … thanks, for the suggestions on types and places to get them, some posters forget we don’t all know what we should be using or what is cheep and what is good quality … I will get it taken care of now that I know..
 
Afrika use Englisch, Dutch ,Franse and Swahili (Somalië-oost Afrika)
brand name Taigoehua and come from Nigeria west-afrika
Standerd = standard

High Gureent = high Current

So no nothing wrong with the cable names on it .
Its how its write down in that country

The world today is small .
Special that thinks are transport over the world.
 
Damn not the feedback I wanted, but that is why I asked.

I thought it was copper with aluminum clad not the other way around crap crap crap. But what is needed is needed … thanks, for the suggestions on types and places to get them, some posters forget we don’t all know what we should be using or what is cheep and what is good quality … I will get it taken care of now that I know..

Everyone starts somewhere with a different background. The most important thing is being willing to learn and take advice without taking the critical bits personally.
There are more than a few folks on here from different cultures and parts Of the world. Through translation software things can seem more rude or critical than they are meant.
 
High Gureent = high Current

We usually use misspelled words as a flag for scams, and non-compliant products.
Thanks for pointing out that the word was accepted spelling elsewhere.

We fall for the COPPER! (cca) slight of hand over here too. I did for jumper cables.
I think the label ought to say Aluminum (with copper plating.)

We've got allowed words like "gold wash" and others for things that shine like gold but aren't solid 18k gold.
Many products and industries use misleading terms. Some are regulated, others aren't.
 
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My first 2000w inverter came with 2 cables. One was CCA and the other was copper. I only used them for a couple hours to test the inverter and verify it wasn't DOA and when I disconnected the cables the CCA end was black and clearly overheated. Since then anytime I run across a CCA cable here I just toss it in the trash/metal recycle.
Yes I should have looked closer ad nw that I look at it, it’s obvious.. but ..crap .. Will fix it …
 
Alright order new cables and this weekend I redo again with real cables thanks to all for helping me stay safe and prevent problems ..

This time I ordered https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/product/1-0-awg-tinned-marine-battery-cable/

It’s will be good to have this resolved and sure it is right (and not cheep) .. hey let me connect my batteries cables three time and I will get it right..

Thanks again to all ..

MattMan
 
Your earlier links showed a kit with crimp terminals.


Do you plan to crimp? Have suitable equipment?
You can find threads here discussing crimping and links to what worked or didn't.
I previously bought a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper with "2/0" die ($80). The wire sizes claimed were a hallucination.
I recently bought a Temco kit recommended by forum members ($175) but haven't used it yet.
Some professional brands are priced in the $thousands.
 
That looks like good cable for a wet environment.

Make sure you also have the double wall heatshrink for after crimping - outer is for color and insulation and inner is an adhesive to seal the connection tight.

Also make sure you have some no-ox-id special or similar for your connection points - is a grease specifically made for electrical connections to prevent corrosion and give you a better connection.

I don't know what crimper you have, but if it is one of the AMZCNC or harbor frieght type models it is likely the dies included are metric labeled as AWG or they come with a conversion chart. They also tend to leak after not so long. Hammer crimpers work but they can damage the wire strands.

If it is one of those you are better off buying a Temco or similar brand crimper hydraulic crimper. Better crimps all the way around.
This is the one I have - a bit spendy but will use it for all my connections when I do the home install. There are others that are as good, but they are as pricey.

there are others with long handles that are die-less that others can recommend.

And make sure to order some good lugs - selterm, temco, or any from that marine website you got the wire from. You want the tinned version verse bare copper if you are in a marine environment.
 
Your earlier links showed a kit with crimp terminals.


Do you plan to crimp? Have suitable equipment?
You can find threads here discussing crimping and links to what worked or didn't.
I previously bought a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper with "2/0" die ($80). The wire sizes claimed were a hallucination.
I recently bought a Temco kit recommended by forum members ($175) but haven't used it yet.
Some professional brands are priced in the $thousands.
Yes I have a full hydraulic crimping tool, and I have recently had a lot of practice…lol … I don’t use the sizes they suggest (other then a suggested starting point) it is better to do a few test crimps and test the connections so you know you have it right… I had a experience with car battery connections once it had made me very careful to get it right…
 
Make sure you also have the double wall heatshrink for after crimping - outer is for color and insulation and inner is an adhesive to seal the connection tight.

Also make sure you have some no-ox-id special or similar for your connection points - is a grease specifically made for electrical connections to prevent corrosion and give you a better connection.
Quote tool is pretty cool.. sorry for multiple post should have put them all in one..learning the tool also ..

Roger that … I did not think of no-ox-id grease was useful here, but I will rethink that thought.. liberally coating like other applications?
 
Quote tool is pretty cool.. sorry for multiple post should have put them all in one..learning the tool also ..

Roger that … I did not think of no-ox-id grease was useful here, but I will rethink that thought.. liberally coating like other applications?

Just a thin coating on the mating contact surfaces. You can coat the other exposed bits if you want with it, but they make spray on preservatives that work just as well and don't just look like gooped on grease.
 
IMG_7263.png

Manufacturer Specs for EG4 6000XP aka LuxPower Tek.

IMG_7261.jpeg
Battery recommendations for cable.

IMG_7262.jpeg
Install battery instructions:
IMG_7264.jpeg
I would recommend copper welding type wire for cross sectional. This is what the manual for this particular inverter states. Probably never happen but be nice if they stated the exact kind of wire and cable needed for the installation. It would help stop problems and confusion.

The current rating is probably ok. Everyone is mostly fixed on the 600 amp words. 👀😁

Aluminum wire is used in a lot of things now and even in the past like aircraft and homes. Some ppl will even argue that with newer aluminum wire the goop is not needed there are 2 electrical channels have watched on youtube as it is cycling videos on it.
Example:


Again if didn’t know better would be ripping the aluminum service wire out coming into my home from grid and calling a priest to stop the great satan that made aluminum wiring. 😁👀 Holy NOALOX going everywhere.


Yes I would use copper with lot of variables involved to be the safest…. But the Great satan says manufacturer should be more specific …… what does manufacturer say the max current draw will be for eg4 6000xp. Are they full of Noalox? Just asking.
 

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