Beginner setup to run starlink off grid.

[ohare25]

Hello,
Im new to all of this but I was just looking for some advice.

My partner has a small business and we trade at large music festivals throughout the UK. Unfortunately 4g phone coverage is poor at many locations and WiFi provided by the festivals is very expensive. Around £250 over 3-4 days.However we need internet coverage to use our payment card readers.

Luckily we were able to take advantage of the "Starlink rural UK offer" and we have a subscription on their roaming plan which allows us to take it anywhere.

This would be a significant saving for us if there was a way we could reliably power it. The starlink runs at around 50watt once up and running. And we would need to run the system for around 12 hours a day.

A the moment we have a small "jackery" and solar panel but this will only run the starlink for a few hours.

We would like to stay environmentally friendly and use solar where we can. I have considered the Ecoflow delta products. But I'm wondering if there would be a significant benefit from building a hard wired system that is just as capable and within a similar or better price range?

Any help would be appreciated.

Kind regards

Tom

 

[sunshine_eggo]

The starlink apparently now has a timer where it can be automatically powered down according to your desires.

50W * 12h = 600Wh

You will need a system capable of generating 600Wh/day for perpetual use. Given that you are in the land of the reluctant sun, solar is going to be a problem:

Here are your irradiance values for Manchester:




Assumes Panels mounted facing South optimally tilted at 21° from vertical for Winter production. NO shading, i.e., the panels get no shadows from sunrise to sunset.

In July, you only need 600Wh/3.79h = 158W
However, in Dec, you need 600Wh/0.98h = 612W

You will need 600Wh of battery capacity for every day of autonomy of no charging.

Personally, I wouldn't consider less than 800W and 2.4kWh of battery capacity. Even then, December might take you offline periodically.

 

[ohare25]

The starlink apparently now has a timer where it can be automatically powered down according to your desires.

50W * 12h = 600Wh

You will need a system capable of generating 600Wh/day for perpetual use. Given that you are in the land of the reluctant sun, solar is going to be a problem:

Here are your irradiance values for Manchester:

View attachment 152675


Assumes Panels mounted facing South optimally tilted at 21° from vertical for Winter production. NO shading, i.e., the panels get no shadows from sunrise to sunset.

In July, you only need 600Wh/3.79h = 158W
However, in Dec, you need 600Wh/0.98W = 612W

You will need 600Wh of battery capacity for every day of autonomy of no charging.

Personally, I wouldn't consider less than 800W and 2.4kWh of battery capacity. Even then, December might take you offline periodically.

This is exactly the type of information I was looking for. Thank you for your time and response.

Kind regards

Tom

 

[sunshine_eggo]

This is exactly the type of information I was looking for. Thank you for your time and response.

Kind regards

Tom

If you're looking at something like a solar generator, since you mentioned a jackery, another thing to consider is the idle draw of any power source. Something like a jackery, Bluetti, etc., draws battery power just by being on. It can actually be a very large portion, especially when considering small loads. Running a 2000W inverter (typical of the big generators with big batteries on the order I mentioned) at only 50W means you'll be about 50% efficient, i.e., you'll actually consume 100W total.

Your best bet is likely separate components - a very small dedicated inverter - like 200-300W max (maybe larger if you find a really efficient one), a 30A MPPT that can be over-paneled to 800W, a cheap battery monitor, and about 200Ah of 12V batteries. That way the small inverter will only add 5-15% more power drain.

Since you're nearer the Netherlands, I'd look at Victron. Their Phoenix inverters have very low power consumption, and a 100/30 MPPT is pretty right-sized.

 

[Craig]

Since the amount of sun on your panels could be an issue. Is it possible to charge a battery while you are driving to and from these events. My thought would to be to have some solar panels mounted to whatever you think works or you can use a portable panel system to charge while your vehicle is stationary. Then I would have about a 1200 WH or more of storage that could be charged either from vehicles alternator or the solar panels. As others have posted I would definitely make my own system IMO the jackery and Delta products are way overpriced for the amount of storage you get.

 

[ohare25]

If you're looking at something like a solar generator, since you mentioned a jackery, another thing to consider is the idle draw of any power source. Something like a jackery, Bluetti, etc., draws battery power just by being on. It can actually be a very large portion, especially when considering small loads. Running a 2000W inverter (typical of the big generators with big batteries on the order I mentioned) at only 50W means you'll be about 50% efficient, i.e., you'll actually consume 100W total.

Your best bet is likely separate components - a very small dedicated inverter - like 200-300W max (maybe larger if you find a really efficient one), a 30A MPPT that can be over-paneled to 800W, a cheap battery monitor, and about 200Ah of 12V batteries. That way the small inverter will only add 5-15% more power drain.

Since you're nearer the Netherlands, I'd look at Victron. Their Phoenix inverters have very low power consumption, and a 100/30 MPPT is pretty right-sized.

That's a great point which I have not considered. The system would solely be used for starlink so a 300watt inverter would be all I need.

Thank you!

 

[sunshine_eggo]

That's a great point which I have not considered. The system would solely be used for starlink so a 300watt inverter would be all I need.

Thank you!

@Craig 's idea of charging while driving is spot on. Victron also makes the Orion DC-DC chargers that could give you a boost while in transit.

 

[ohare25]

Since the amount of sun on your panels could be an issue. Is it possible to charge a battery while you are driving to and from these events. My thought would to be to have some solar panels mounted to whatever you think works or you can use a portable panel system to charge while your vehicle is stationary. Then I would have about a 1200 WH or more of storage that could be charged either from vehicles alternator or the solar panels. As others have posted I would definitely make my own system IMO the jackery and Delta products are way overpriced for the amount of storage you get.

Thanks for your response Craig. I was initially apprehensive about building my own system after reading about damaging the battery's from draining them below 50% and recharging frequently. However I am now of the understanding that the newer lithium phosphate battery's don't have this issue ?

Kind regards

Tom

 

[ohare25]

If you're looking at something like a solar generator, since you mentioned a jackery, another thing to consider is the idle draw of any power source. Something like a jackery, Bluetti, etc., draws battery power just by being on. It can actually be a very large portion, especially when considering small loads. Running a 2000W inverter (typical of the big generators with big batteries on the order I mentioned) at only 50W means you'll be about 50% efficient, i.e., you'll actually consume 100W total.

Your best bet is likely separate components - a very small dedicated inverter - like 200-300W max (maybe larger if you find a really efficient one), a 30A MPPT that can be over-paneled to 800W, a cheap battery monitor, and about 200Ah of 12V batteries. That way the small inverter will only add 5-15% more power drain.

Since you're nearer the Netherlands, I'd look at Victron. Their Phoenix inverters have very low power consumption, and a 100/30 MPPT is pretty right-sized.

Thank you for this. It has certainly pointed me in the right direction. Do you recommend the lithium phosphate batteries, as I have heard there can be issues with conventional lead acid or AGM batteries when discharging them below a certain level?

Thanks

Tom

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Thanks for your response Craig. I was initially apprehensive about building my own system after reading about damaging the battery's from draining them below 50% and recharging frequently. However I am now of the understanding that the newer lithium phosphate battery's don't have this issue ?

• LFP is far more flexible. It can sit around at a partial state of charge and not sustain damage.
• Lighter.
• Can deliver 80-100% of rated capacity and retain 2000+ cycle life.
• Can be charged faster than lead acid.

Downsides:

• Can't be charged below freezing - this can be addressed bye the BMS protecting the battery (listed as a feature), and the victron MPPT mentioned coupled with a temperature sensor can also be set to stop charging below freezing.
• Their BMS limits output where a lead acid can be hammered hard if you can tolerate the voltage drop. This is NOT a concern in your low power application.

Components:
Victron Phoenix 12/250 or 12/375
Victron MPPT 100/30
Victron Smartshunt or BMV-712 if you want an analog display and programming interface.
800W of solar (or as much as you can fit if you can't get 800W)
~200Ah of 12.8V LFP. SOK makes a 206Ah LFP that has a good repuation.
Misc wiring, fuses/breakers.

 

[ohare25]

• LFP is far more flexible. It can sit around at a partial state of charge and not sustain damage.
• Lighter.
• Can deliver 80-100% of rated capacity and retain 2000+ cycle life.
• Can be charged faster than lead acid.

Downsides:

• Can't be charged below freezing - this can be addressed bye the BMS protecting the battery (listed as a feature), and the victron MPPT mentioned coupled with a temperature sensor can also be set to stop charging below freezing.
• Their BMS limits output where a lead acid can be hammered hard if you can tolerate the voltage drop. This is NOT a concern in your low power application.

Components:
Victron Phoenix 12/250 or 12/375
Victron MPPT 100/30
Victron Smartshunt or BMV-712 if you want an analog display and programming interface.
800W of solar (or as much as you can fit if you can't get 800W)
~200Ah of 12.8V LFP. SOK makes a 206Ah LFP that has a good repuation.
Misc wiring, fuses/breakers.

Absolute legend.

Thank you!

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Curious to understand how much money you all are bringing in to justify the excellent setup advised.

One option would be to take it a step at a time, knowing you do have your all in one type power generator as a backup. Maybe first spend on a good battery with the capability to charge from the vehicle and shore power at night. Consider what other loads you might want to handle in the future, at home or off and about.

Our 1200W Victron Phoenix inverter is pretty good with consumption on standby yet it powers a (somewhat small but nicely sufficient) toaster oven and a super capable portable induction cooktop (maximum setting is medium high which is plenty hot enough) that we use during the summer to keep the indoors from getting unwanted heat. A smaller microwave would also work. I used it to power a belt sander recently for a small project.

Then when funds allow and you are more dialed in on how you can use your system hopefully more expansively than just at festivals, purchasing a charge controller that can easily handle whatever amount of solar panels you may get in the future, just might economically justify the commitment to a more sustainable way of life.

Happy decision making!

 

[KITROBASKIN]

The carport we built at the beginning of the COVID lockdown sure comes in handy.
We are in the midst of a major pińon pollen release because of the blessing of rain we’ve had.

 

[HRTKD]

Here is a link to the system I built to run my Starlink when I'm doing tent camping: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/board-build.46274/

I use two RV/Marine deep cycle lead acid batteries in parallel. Over a week of use, I had no problem with the battery state of charge. I charged up phones, a shaver and a couple other things. I did have a rather large array, because that's what I had. I'm pretty sure I could have got by with half the array that was used, so about 500 watts of PV.

 

[MisterB1959]

Hello,
Im new to all of this but I was just looking for some advice.

My partner has a small business and we trade at large music festivals throughout the UK. Unfortunately 4g phone coverage is poor at many locations and WiFi provided by the festivals is very expensive. Around £250 over 3-4 days.However we need internet coverage to use our payment card readers.

Luckily we were able to take advantage of the "Starlink rural UK offer" and we have a subscription on their roaming plan which allows us to take it anywhere.

This would be a significant saving for us if there was a way we could reliably power it. The starlink runs at around 50watt once up and running. And we would need to run the system for around 12 hours a day.

A the moment we have a small "jackery" and solar panel but this will only run the starlink for a few hours.

We would like to stay environmentally friendly and use solar where we can. I have considered the Ecoflow delta products. But I'm wondering if there would be a significant benefit from building a hard wired system that is just as capable and within a similar or better price range?

Any help would be appreciated.

Kind regards

Tom

i also took advantage of the 'rural uk' offer and have now converted my router to run directly off 12v as per the overlanders you tube video. It can still be used on 240v if I wanted to.


total (UK) cost was under £25. took me a while to get the front off the router using a scalpel type craft knife and some wooden lolly sticks!





I'm going to add another couple of mods to the router which are totally unnecessary but I want to do them anyway. One is to try to add a computer fan (I noticed the heat syncs got very hot) and the other a small three pin socket, so I won't have an additional wire 'hanging' from the router.

I have the 12v regulated supply and 12v to 48v step up transformer mounted on a board, which I can discretely hide away in the motorhome (RV) and leave permanently connected to a 12v supply. I want to be able then just to connect a cable from the 'supply' to the router using a fly lead.