Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
How about 2 or 3 of these, 12k for the main area and 8k for the bedroom - Midea 12,000 BTU U-Shaped Smart Inverter Window Air Conditioner
If you want the warranty that comes with most mini splits you need a licensed HVAC contractor to make the line set connections. Even my utility company wanted the contractors number before I would be eligible for a rebate. That's gonna cost you an extra $500 - $1500 or higher if if you have multiple indoor units.That's what I'm afraid of. The ceiling is beautiful from the inside, with whitewashed pine boards and natural-color exposed rafters, but I don't think it is insulated hardly at all. As far as I can tell, it's a layer of boards covered with tar paper and then a metal roof. It's possible that the layer of black material between the boards and the metal is not just tar paper, but it's not very thick in any case. I may have to forego the beauty and add insulation to the visible underside of the ceiling.
I've read a lot about the benefits of a mini-split, most notably better efficiency. However, every time I compare them to window A/C units of similar capacity (24,000 BTU) it seems like the wattage consumption is about the same, and the window units are about a fifth of the price. :-/
I think that's usually true, but just has to be kept in context that a mini split running at its absolute worst efficiency is still making heat more efficiently than a space heater or other electric heating element, and usually it's massively better.From what I understand they burn more electric producing heat that they do cooling, but I could be wrong.
Interesting info. That's good performance from a window unit. What type of dehumidifier? Most heat up the air.This building is cooled with a 9k 110v window AC unit that is located on the east wall window and mainly works to cool the back (residents) half. A curtain separates the doorway from the back half to the front. In the front I have a de-humidifier set to 55%.
A Frigidair 50pint in the shop. In july and august I empty it daily. About $350 at Home Depot. I have one in my master bath as well. Yes, it does have a slight heating affect when it first kicks on, but somewhere along a "run" it cools for a few minutes. Don't fully understand the process it uses, just know it lowers the humidity enough to keep the house comfortable on a higher thermostat setting.Interesting info. That's good performance from a window unit. What type of dehumidifier? Most heat up the air.
Also, I guarantee your relative humidity is not >60% when the temperature is >100F.
They're basically small air conditioners. If you buy a tiny window A/C but instead set it over a bucket in the middle of the room you have yourself a dehumidifier. Water will condense out of the humid indoor air onto the cold evaporator coil then drip into the bucket.A Frigidair 50pint in the shop. In july and august I empty it daily. About $350 at Home Depot.
That's a dew point of 71F, common in humid areas. Corpus Christi, TX dew point is 74F as I type this. 110 and 60% would be a 93F dew point. That's never been recorded in the US. Freak weather events have produced a couple of 90s and an unverified 91.Right now where I am we have "nice" weather meaning it's 87 and 59% as I'm typing this.
Ok, but you didn't misunderstand me to say that I was using the AC in the middle of a room and not in a window, correct?They're basically small air conditioners. If you buy a tiny window A/C but instead set it over a bucket in the middle of the room you have yourself a dehumidifier. Water will condense out of the humid indoor air onto the cold evaporator coil then drip into the bucket.
Of course if you put that A/C in a window, as intended, it'll reduce indoor humidity while also pumping heat from indoors to outdoors. So your indoor air gets both drier and cooler.
Dehumidifiers don't have an "outdoor side". So they first blow indoor air over a cold evaporator coil, just like an A/C. But then they blow that same air over the hot condenser coil, which heats it right back up. So that air goes from warm and humid, to cool and dry, to warm and dry. Plus the pumping process itself creates extra heat and, unlike a window A/C, a dehumidifier has no way to exhaust it to the outside air. So the air ends up warmer than it originally was.
That's a dew point of 71F, common in humid areas. Corpus Christi, TX dew point is 74F as I type this. 110 and 60% would be a 93F dew point. That's never been recorded in the US. Freak weather events have produced a couple of 90s and an unverified 91.
Record Dew Point Temperatures | Weather Extremes
Just recently the Minnesota State Climate Office issued a statement declaring the 88° dew point temperature measured at Moorhead (on the Red River across from Fargo, North Dakota) between 7pm and 9pm on July 19, 2011 as a new all-time state record for the highest such reading ever observed. This...www.wunderground.com
I'm cooling a 24x24 house single story with an open floor plan with ease using a 14,000 btu 115v window unit. That's in South East Ga. The house is properly insulated and all cracks were caulked during construction. Point being how efficient the home is determines how easy or difficult it is to cool or heat a house. Location plays a huge factor as well. We have 115 degree heat index days here. A cooler climate of course requires smaller cooling capacity.I know this is a stupid question, and there are many factors that go into a cooling design, way more than we could dig into here, so this is a Hail Mary play. Please be kind even if you think I'm an idiot. The downstairs is 800 ft^2, of which 180 ft^2 is the bedroom. The living room and kitchen are part of one big open area. There is also a 200 ft^2 open loft area. The cabin has an 9/12 pitch metal roof and insulated pine walls. The ceiling is around 20 ft. up, I guess. The question is, hypothetically, is it possible to cool a whole cabin with one downstairs window A/C unit in the 24000 BTU range?