Can't get MC4 connector off

[OnGrid]

I had purchased a few used panels and one of the positive leads on one of the panels has a piece of an old MC4 connector connected to it. I tried to get it off, but didn't want to force it. Do I need a spanner tool to get it off (i have one on order)?






See the attached pics

 

[acdoctor]

A couple of flat screw drivers should work in a pinch.

 

[cs1234]

Curved needle nose pliers work really well.

 

[OnGrid]

A couple of flat screw drivers should work in a pinch.

I tried that, but it was tough to hold them in place and pull the connector off by myself.

 

[OnGrid]

Curved needle nose pliers work really well.

I'll try that tomorrow.

Is the spanning tool also designed to get that old one off?

 

[pollenface]

I use side cutters

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I pinch them with my fingers or use the removal tool.

You don’t need the wrench side, you need the pins on the other end to squeeze the clips and unlock them.

The wrench (spanner) side is just to install the compression nuts.

 

[OnGrid]

I pinch them with my fingers or use the removal tool.

You don’t need the wrench side, you need the pins on the other end to squeeze the clips and unlock them.

The wrench (spanner) side is just to install the compression nuts.

Thanks, that's what I thought, waiting for my spanner wrench to arrive.

 

[DThames]

If you purchased more than one panel and this is the only one that has that end on it, you could likely assume that it is stuck enough that the guy before you couldn't get it off either. I have ran into this before. Those thin sides that are outside of the little hooks, are made so you can press on the outside with your fingers to release. Likely you are releasing it but the body is stuck to the mating body, or inside the connection metal to metal parts.

I would try to force it with a thin screwdriver or a knife blade along the parting line. If you can get it to unseat, then pinch the lock and try to pry it further out from the fully seated position. Worst case, start disassembly of the end and cut it apart until you get down to the terminal metal insert, then work that piece off of the other terminal metal. If it is corroded, you should replace the end on your panel side.

 

[Funion]

MC4 plastic wrench has tabs on it to release the connectors. Comes with most MC4 connector kits.

 

[Kapow_Network]

I ran into similar problem.

When I tried to verify output on the next panel, the plastic spanner (I think it came free with something but am not sure what) broke.

Also, when I looked closely, it didn't appear to fit well. I saw some reviews saying that this might happen (eg - if the spanner came with some extra Renogy mc4 connectors I ordered, then maybe it only fits Renogy mc4 connectors ? not the connectors on the panels nor the cables I received w/t panels).

I now need to order a new spanner tool and/or figure out a way to work around the
each other and verify output individually.

NOTE: Once I get these disconnected, I am considering over riding the need for a "key".
This apparently can be done like this:

This guy basically filed his down to make it quick release.
Any dangers?

For all the trouble, I don't see the value of a key tool or "key".

 

[12VoltInstalls]

This guy basically filed his down to make it quick release.
Any dangers?

For all the trouble, I don't see the value of a key tool or "key".

Moisture in the connector will capillary into the wires. They are designed to lock in place to prevent failure at the seals.

You can open them with the plastic combo tool that unlocks them or squeeze them with your fingers to open. But depending on your configuration there could be dangerous voltage there. Another feature of the tool in unlocking the tabs.

In areas subject to frequent high winds the locking tabs make them more secure in some situations.

Disable them if you want to. You can dispose of them in the trash along with those pesky fuses that keep blowing; they’re such a pain to get out, too.
I would not disable them myself.