diy solar

diy solar

Converter Options and batteries: Progressive Dynamics 4655 or 4655 VL? 1 Battery or 2?

jpcjtrtj

New Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2021
Messages
113
I just upgraded my trailer to the Progressive Dynamics 4655 Converter (then, I decided I wanted to upgrade to LiPO4 . . . ). On shore power, the converter charges at 14.4 volts in boost mode to 90% of the lead acid battery capacity and then floats at 13.6. At the push of a button, you can manually make it stay at 14.4 as long as you want and drop when you want it to. So, basically, it'll charge LiPO4 to 90%. I am also installing a renology 40 amp DC-DC charger that will top off the battery while I'm driving.

Alternatively, I can replace the converter with a 4655VL. That has all of the choices of the 4655 in standard mode but also has a lithium mode. In lithium mode, it sits at a constant 14.6. Using the battery isolator, I can manually disconnect the batteries when they hit 14.6 on my battery monitor. I assume the victron has some kind of alarm I can set; or I can just pay attention.

I'm currently going with a 4S 280 AH DIY Eve battery which will run a max load of 6 twenty amp dc circuits (120A potential load) (no inverter). Thoughts on installing the VL or not. It's a wash cost wise because I can return the one i don't use. It seems smart to use the boost charge at 90% and manually move the charger to float when necessary. But there's a certain ease at getting the batteries all the way to the top at 14.6in Lithium mode and having the choice of using the standard mode as well. Thoughts?

Also, would you rather 2 100 ah batteries in parallel or 1 280 ah battery in a camper that goes for 1 week or 2 weeks trips several times a year? I like the redundancy of the 2 (which will already double the capacity of my 184 ah lead acid agm power); but the extra capacity of the one that will take me 5 days without a charge (more with the 4 100 watt solar hooked up or alternator charging). Cost; the 280 ah battery is about $650 after i build it. Depending on the 100 ah, it's probably about $1200 (for Fortune cells build); or $1,000 for premade Ampere Time. We're pretty conservative and I think i use about 50 ah a day +/-.

Thanks in advance.
 
I would try it and see if it works for you.

The likely bigger issue is your wiring. RV wiring has a notoriously high voltage drop if the battery is a significant distance from the converter, and it will challenge ANY converter you install.

LFP can easily attain 95%+ SoC @ 13.6V:


The idea that 14.4V will only get a battery to 90% is only true if you're charging around 0.5C or 140A in your case. If you charge at lower current, you will reach 14.4V later and be at a higher state of charge.

Without a doubt, you will be able to charge your LFP battery to 100% @ 14.4V. 14.6V isn't required. It's just the defined charge profile, 14.6V @ 0.5C (140A), cut off when current drops to 0.05C (14A) = 100% SoC.

You can provide current at lower voltages and still get it fully charged.

The trade off is time. If you're trying to get the battery charged as quickly as possible on a generator, then it's not optimal UNLESS you use the 14.4V override. If you're okay with charging in about 6 hours @ 13.6V, then it will work fine.

If you're seeing a big voltage drop between the converter output and battery terminals, any converter will perform poorly. I would target no more than 0.3V drop between converter and battery at 55A. Money might be better spent running a second pair of conductors to the battery.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top