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Critique my Battery Pack - 16s2p 580ah EVE LF280K

mlebs

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Apr 2, 2020
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Just finished a 16s2p 580ah EVE LF280K battery pack. It will be powering a Growatt 12kW Split Phase Off-Grid Inverter. The battery pack has been lightly tested and everything seems to be working as it should. I have 2x 160a DC circuit breakers on each positive lead (that also act as my main battery disconnects) and will still be installing a 300a Class-T Fuse on the main 4/0 gauge battery cable before the inverter. All cables are 2/0 gauge before the main bus bars and I will be using 4/0 from those to the inverter. I oversized everything, including 500a Daly BMS's and all components are attached to cement board. The smaller bus bars are rated for 300a and the larger main bus bars are rated for 500a. Before I put this unit into full operation, I would like some feedback. I've attached a few pictures. Does anyone see any long-term issues with this setup? I do plan to construct a cover to place on top of the battery pack to protect the components. Cheers.
 

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If you decide you want to insert separators, make sure you do it at a low state of charge and the cells are cool to greatly reduce any swelling. I got a roll of white Formica (no carbon coloring) and skived a line with a utility knife and straight edge. I cut hook into the utility knife blade with a cutoff wheel. If you do it right you can snap it off. I use an orbital sander to smooth the texture of the glue side. Or you can just buy what I couldn’t find at the time. https://www.18650batterystore.com/p...or-sheet-208-175-0-5mm-lifepo4-cell-separator
IMG_0393.jpegIMG_0394.jpegIMG_0395.jpeg
 
Watch the Dalys like hawk, it’s not that they don’t have the current capacity, they handle that easily. I’ve found that the logic just stops doing a feature. Sometimes an update will fix it and other times it’ll brick it. At least you have redundancy.
 
If you decide you want to insert separators, make sure you do it at a low state of charge and the cells are cool to greatly reduce any swelling. I got a roll of white Formica (no carbon coloring) and skived a line with a utility knife and straight edge. I cut hook into the utility knife blade with a cutoff wheel. If you do it right you can snap it off. I use an orbital sander to smooth the texture of the glue side. Or you can just buy what I couldn’t find at the time. https://www.18650batterystore.com/p...or-sheet-208-175-0-5mm-lifepo4-cell-separator
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Thanks for the tip!
 
Placement near the battery post is not important.
There are very many knowledgeable people who confirm that the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.
The ABYC requirement for a battery bank fuse is that the fuse must be within 7 wire inches of the battery bank.

There are many posts on this forum confirming this truism. For example, see one of this forum's moderator's posts at this link:
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/which-goes-first-fuse-or-switch.27070/
 
Looks good to me.

You will have to fuse everything for the smallest wire, which looks to be the gauge of the pos and neg wire coming out of the two upper boxes. I cant tell if these are bussbars or fuse boxes?. Looks like 2awg or 1 awg coming off of these, so around 175 - 200 amp fuse that can handle 52 volts.

Also, heat shrink on these connectors will stave off long term corrosion issues with un-tinned copper.

Where did you source the lower bussbars? Those look compact and the covers are tidy. I want some for my project....

MP
 
This Bluesea Sytems is my fav, budget buss bar. A huge piece of copper..

 
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