Darfon Gro Watt GBLI 5001 Battery Pack- worth a punt?
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Supermans_1
New Member
Ok done
Let me know if all good
Note: everyone's GBLI5001 battery will have different SOC'S.
Upon tinkering with the sp2000 settings in lead-acid mode I couldn't work out why why the sp2000 was still tripping out with error code 118 when charging it turns out that because of lead acid float charging the vbat setting low and high are better off as the same voltage and are better set to the optimum charging value of the battery CAPABILITY - the standard setting is 58 volts for both the settings but because of age and degradation I have changed mine to 56.5 volts (which is 100-percent soc for mine) now the float charging voltage is not active anymore and the sp2000 is no longer tripping out so it's all about the battery capability given its age and degradation ie it will not charge anymore than it can.
And likewise for discharging the vbat low and high settings I think the same principle applies ie my battery discharges to about 49 volts at 50% soc so the setting I have changed to is 49 volts for both vbat low and high to keep the sp-2000 controller from tripping out (Or over discharging)
I'm not sure if the same or similar principles apply for a standard GBLI5001 battery regarding the over charging and over discharging with its original BMS might be worth a few tweaks though if anyone has still got the original setup !
Upon tinkering with the sp2000 settings in lead-acid mode I couldn't work out why why the sp2000 was still tripping out with error code 118 when charging it turns out that because of lead acid float charging the vbat setting low and high are better off as the same voltage and are better set to the optimum charging value of the battery CAPABILITY - the standard setting is 58 volts for both the settings but because of age and degradation I have changed mine to 56.5 volts (which is 100-percent soc for mine) now the float charging voltage is not active anymore and the sp2000 is no longer tripping out so it's all about the battery capability given its age and degradation ie it will not charge anymore than it can.
And likewise for discharging the vbat low and high settings I think the same principle applies ie my battery discharges to about 49 volts at 50% soc so the setting I have changed to is 49 volts for both vbat low and high to keep the sp-2000 controller from tripping out (Or over discharging)
I'm not sure if the same or similar principles apply for a standard GBLI5001 battery regarding the over charging and over discharging with its original BMS might be worth a few tweaks though if anyone has still got the original setup !
Supermans_1
New Member
In lead acid mode with original bms fitted still
Mine charged to 57.5v 100 percent
Stopped discharging at 47.1v at 40 percent but once stopped discharging voltage went back to 49.2v and now settled back at 49.4v
Charged 3.5kwh today and discharged 3.3kwh
Charged and Discharged much more than is lithium mode
That's great it's sounds like you've got a decent battery there .
All you need is another one connected in parallel for 7kwh capacity ?
Supermans_1
New Member
Had to remove the bms and fit a aftermarket one as it kept shutting down
So fitted one today and gotta wait for the sun to charge now to see how well it works now
Oh and picked up another sp2000 and gbli battery today so gotta hook that up as well as I have 2 solar strings 1 is 1500w at the mo and one is 2500w so will have a charger and battery on each
Michael-2022
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- Mar 22, 2022
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That's interesting. It seems to be working great, 
Здравейте, казвам се Милен, имам 4 бр gbli5001 + 2 бр sp2000, зареждам ги като съм пропуснал оригиналния BMS. Зареждам ги на 56 волта и ги разреждам на 47 волта SP 2000, не ги ползвам. Въпросът ми е мога ли да ги направя с BMS DALY
Hello, my name is Milen, I have 4 pcs gbli5001 + 2 pcs sp2000, I am charging them as I missed the original BMS. I charge them at 56 volts and discharge them at 47 volts SP 2000, I don't use them. My question is can I do them with BMS DALY
champagnecharly
New Member
Thought the following might be useful.
Attached is the data sheet for the original CT clamp......however i later noticed it had already been posted in the
TOP 90-S10/SP4, AC Current Transformer, 90 Amp 0-90mA rms output, X = 1%
As for NTC. I found a 11Kohm resistor soldered to a cable works perfectly well.
I do have issues with the SP2000 and am also in need of the fully compatible software but will start a new thread for that.. .
Attached is the data sheet for the original CT clamp......however i later noticed it had already been posted in the
TOP 90-S10/SP4, AC Current Transformer, 90 Amp 0-90mA rms output, X = 1%
As for NTC. I found a 11Kohm resistor soldered to a cable works perfectly well.
I do have issues with the SP2000 and am also in need of the fully compatible software but will start a new thread for that.. .
Last edited:
champagnecharly
New Member
Hi, Im in the same boat without a CT. I'm wondering which make and model you used and if you have improved the accuracy? Did you stick with LEM?The issue i had with the CT reporting false numbers as i found out was due to the CT i was using. I have since bought a new CT with a rating of 100A:100mA which appears to read far closer to the real consumption, seems to be around 150W off still, but im happy with it until i can find a genuine Growatt CT
I will post a new dedicated thread once i have everything in place and in working order to share with the community and assist/inspire anyone who is interested in such a thing!
champagnecharly
New Member
I'm also in need if you can help i will PM now.
DICE
New Member
Can I ask how? I binned all my original BMS boards, so really just out of interest
DICE
New Member
I have a programmer and the various firmwares for the different versions of these Darfon BMS boards.
Just a case of re flashing the firmware to reset.
Lots of these batteries have been binned needlessly.
Fighthepower2
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2022
- Messages
- 1
Hiya all, glad to see this thread is still going strong, seems to be the best place for anyone tinkering with these packs. I got hold of one with the factory inverter but had no intention of using it so flogged for the price I paid for the whole set (result!) apparently it sat for at least a year in a garage before I got hold of it, and its sat for a further 6 months in my flat. Cracked it open today to embark on the rebuild, with some reletivly promising voltages on most cells, 2.6-2.7, and one sat on 2.2, likley the borked one which meant that the BMS was flashing out the error message. Ive carefully removed the BMS, not sure if its beond hope, Ive seen here that they can brick themselfs if cells drop too low? either way will be selling mine as untested on ebay if anyones interested. Will be looking to wire in a aftermarket bms and was wondering if anyone has any pointers. If I can charge all cells and they hold voltage is it best to retain the original pack voltage? Ive no other infrastructure other than a 1.6kw 12v inverter, but am looking to be able to charge off solar and discharge at least 1kw constant, and would like to minimise cost where possible. Any questions, pointers or conversation is welcome
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-C-
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Bit of a belated update, but since I started this thread I've managed to finally get a new BMS installed.
To test whether my battery was worthy of spending out on a BMS for, I got a used Sofar ME3000SP from ebay and ran some charge/discharge cycles while monitoring the string voltages manually. It all remained remarkably well balanced considering how low the voltages were when I first opened the battery up! So that was enough to convince me to fork out for the BMS and continue with this battery.
After much deliberation and only after being advised against using a Seplos BMS by a UK importer (due to ongoing QC problems), I went for a JK BMS- the 2A active balancing was too good to pass up and I found this project on here by @uksa007 - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/j...support-goodwe-and-pylontech-batteries.48963/, which will allow the JK to communicate with my Sofar by spoofing that it's a Pylontech battery. The more I read about this BMS, the more glad I am that I went with it. I got the 200A version, which I know is way overkill for this battery, but I figured it will be having an easy life in this battery and if this doesn't work out, I can use it for whatever cells I replace it with in the future.
I put the BMS's power button/ status LED in the place of the original LED (just had to drill it out to 12mm). I might well run the BMS comms through the original RJ45 connection on the side to keep everything neat.
I decided to stick a fuse in the positive line as I had one lying around and it seemed a double precaution and neat way to join the wires that used to run through the old BMS. I know there's a factory fuse on the negative line (anyone know its value? I haven't cut open the heatshrink). Interestingly, I've only put in a 30A fuse (nearest I had in stock) and it hasn't blown with the inverter's charge current at 40 A. Maybe due to it being a cheapy from ebay?
So I'm now running tests with functional BMS and inverter running in Default (lead acid) mode ahead of getting the BMS to inverter comms working. All seems to be working pretty well. Will report back once I have some solid capacity figures.
Last night I fully charged it (inverter stopped charging while the BMS was reporting 57.92V, which is a little under the 58.8 that the Boston Swing datasheet says is 100% SoC), then turned off the inverter but left the BMS on and this morning it was balanced down to 0.002 V and sitting perfectly stable!
Here's a shot of the JK BMS app's stats page after I've been running everything from the battery for half of the day:
The max & min strings are always different, there doesn't seem to be any weaknesses displaying (yet!)
As an aside, I'm interested to know how it calculates the balance wire resistances. I cut the balance wires to suit & if you follow the numbers, S1 is shortest, going up to S7 and S8, then they get shorter again as strings 9-14 get closer to the BMS. How the heck does it figure this out automatically?!
To test whether my battery was worthy of spending out on a BMS for, I got a used Sofar ME3000SP from ebay and ran some charge/discharge cycles while monitoring the string voltages manually. It all remained remarkably well balanced considering how low the voltages were when I first opened the battery up! So that was enough to convince me to fork out for the BMS and continue with this battery.
After much deliberation and only after being advised against using a Seplos BMS by a UK importer (due to ongoing QC problems), I went for a JK BMS- the 2A active balancing was too good to pass up and I found this project on here by @uksa007 - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/j...support-goodwe-and-pylontech-batteries.48963/, which will allow the JK to communicate with my Sofar by spoofing that it's a Pylontech battery. The more I read about this BMS, the more glad I am that I went with it. I got the 200A version, which I know is way overkill for this battery, but I figured it will be having an easy life in this battery and if this doesn't work out, I can use it for whatever cells I replace it with in the future.
I put the BMS's power button/ status LED in the place of the original LED (just had to drill it out to 12mm). I might well run the BMS comms through the original RJ45 connection on the side to keep everything neat.
I decided to stick a fuse in the positive line as I had one lying around and it seemed a double precaution and neat way to join the wires that used to run through the old BMS. I know there's a factory fuse on the negative line (anyone know its value? I haven't cut open the heatshrink). Interestingly, I've only put in a 30A fuse (nearest I had in stock) and it hasn't blown with the inverter's charge current at 40 A. Maybe due to it being a cheapy from ebay?
So I'm now running tests with functional BMS and inverter running in Default (lead acid) mode ahead of getting the BMS to inverter comms working. All seems to be working pretty well. Will report back once I have some solid capacity figures.
Last night I fully charged it (inverter stopped charging while the BMS was reporting 57.92V, which is a little under the 58.8 that the Boston Swing datasheet says is 100% SoC), then turned off the inverter but left the BMS on and this morning it was balanced down to 0.002 V and sitting perfectly stable!
Here's a shot of the JK BMS app's stats page after I've been running everything from the battery for half of the day:
The max & min strings are always different, there doesn't seem to be any weaknesses displaying (yet!)
As an aside, I'm interested to know how it calculates the balance wire resistances. I cut the balance wires to suit & if you follow the numbers, S1 is shortest, going up to S7 and S8, then they get shorter again as strings 9-14 get closer to the BMS. How the heck does it figure this out automatically?!