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Darfon Gro Watt GBLI 5001 Battery Pack- worth a punt?

Lots of these batteries have been binned needlessly.

Was just thinking this as I was putting mine back together the other day. I actually pulled mine out of a scrap metal pile!
The battery enclosures are so nicely made as are all the internal components- the BMS definitely seems to be the weak point. If I worked at the company I'd be pithed off with the BMS EEs as they definitely let the rest of the package down.

As others have found, the Anderson can be a weak point too. I think they're better suited to applications where they are repeatedly disconnected/ reconnected as they are designed to wipe clean their own terminals with each disconnect/reconnect. With these batteries, that's not going to happen too often.
Following reading some other posts, I removed all of the copper links when adding my BMS balance wires and applied some MG Chem 847 conductive grease on all connection points to improve conductivity and reduce corrosion. I also added it to the Anderson connection pins.
 
Little off topic but someone should know... Can an SP-CT talk to more than 1 device? IE broadcast to 2 sp2000s or 1 sp2000 and another growatt product?

Thanks
 
From memory I think it's any of 1-4 and any of 5-8 are all joined. Otherwise I agree it's 1 & 2. I'll check
hi guys

i am not clear on what colour wire to use for the c-clamp and the polarity on the SP2000 Sensor/NTC port

please advise

regards
 
Anyone knows the value of the fuse that is on the negative cable inside the battery package? I have to change it because is broken before the fuse itself but there is no value written above it

edit: in the battery specs sheet it says max charge and discharge current is 45A
 
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Another battery resurrected with a new BMS :)
Now the sp2000 is set to lead acid mode, let's see how much will charge and discharge
 

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Hi all,
Does it happen also with your cells and BMS, that after a completed discharge (ie no more power required from the inverter) the cells bounce from a lower to an higher voltage? From 3.26v to 3.46v, see attached image
 

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Bit of a belated update, but since I started this thread I've managed to finally get a new BMS installed.

To test whether my battery was worthy of spending out on a BMS for, I got a used Sofar ME3000SP from ebay and ran some charge/discharge cycles while monitoring the string voltages manually. It all remained remarkably well balanced considering how low the voltages were when I first opened the battery up! So that was enough to convince me to fork out for the BMS and continue with this battery.

After much deliberation and only after being advised against using a Seplos BMS by a UK importer (due to ongoing QC problems), I went for a JK BMS- the 2A active balancing was too good to pass up and I found this project on here by @uksa007 - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/j...support-goodwe-and-pylontech-batteries.48963/, which will allow the JK to communicate with my Sofar by spoofing that it's a Pylontech battery. The more I read about this BMS, the more glad I am that I went with it. I got the 200A version, which I know is way overkill for this battery, but I figured it will be having an easy life in this battery and if this doesn't work out, I can use it for whatever cells I replace it with in the future.

View attachment 152791

I put the BMS's power button/ status LED in the place of the original LED (just had to drill it out to 12mm). I might well run the BMS comms through the original RJ45 connection on the side to keep everything neat.

I decided to stick a fuse in the positive line as I had one lying around and it seemed a double precaution and neat way to join the wires that used to run through the old BMS. I know there's a factory fuse on the negative line (anyone know its value? I haven't cut open the heatshrink). Interestingly, I've only put in a 30A fuse (nearest I had in stock) and it hasn't blown with the inverter's charge current at 40 A. Maybe due to it being a cheapy from ebay?

So I'm now running tests with functional BMS and inverter running in Default (lead acid) mode ahead of getting the BMS to inverter comms working. All seems to be working pretty well. Will report back once I have some solid capacity figures.

Last night I fully charged it (inverter stopped charging while the BMS was reporting 57.92V, which is a little under the 58.8 that the Boston Swing datasheet says is 100% SoC), then turned off the inverter but left the BMS on and this morning it was balanced down to 0.002 V and sitting perfectly stable!

Here's a shot of the JK BMS app's stats page after I've been running everything from the battery for half of the day:
View attachment 152792
The max & min strings are always different, there doesn't seem to be any weaknesses displaying (yet!)

As an aside, I'm interested to know how it calculates the balance wire resistances. I cut the balance wires to suit & if you follow the numbers, S1 is shortest, going up to S7 and S8, then they get shorter again as strings 9-14 get closer to the BMS. How the heck does it figure this out automatically?!
Bit of a belated update, but since I started this thread I've managed to finally get a new BMS installed.

To test whether my battery was worthy of spending out on a BMS for, I got a used Sofar ME3000SP from ebay and ran some charge/discharge cycles while monitoring the string voltages manually. It all remained remarkably well balanced considering how low the voltages were when I first opened the battery up! So that was enough to convince me to fork out for the BMS and continue with this battery.

After much deliberation and only after being advised against using a Seplos BMS by a UK importer (due to ongoing QC problems), I went for a JK BMS- the 2A active balancing was too good to pass up and I found this project on here by @uksa007 - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/j...support-goodwe-and-pylontech-batteries.48963/, which will allow the JK to communicate with my Sofar by spoofing that it's a Pylontech battery. The more I read about this BMS, the more glad I am that I went with it. I got the 200A version, which I know is way overkill for this battery, but I figured it will be having an easy life in this battery and if this doesn't work out, I can use it for whatever cells I replace it with in the future.

View attachment 152791

I put the BMS's power button/ status LED in the place of the original LED (just had to drill it out to 12mm). I might well run the BMS comms through the original RJ45 connection on the side to keep everything neat.

I decided to stick a fuse in the positive line as I had one lying around and it seemed a double precaution and neat way to join the wires that used to run through the old BMS. I know there's a factory fuse on the negative line (anyone know its value? I haven't cut open the heatshrink). Interestingly, I've only put in a 30A fuse (nearest I had in stock) and it hasn't blown with the inverter's charge current at 40 A. Maybe due to it being a cheapy from ebay?

So I'm now running tests with functional BMS and inverter running in Default (lead acid) mode ahead of getting the BMS to inverter comms working. All seems to be working pretty well. Will report back once I have some solid capacity figures.

Last night I fully charged it (inverter stopped charging while the BMS was reporting 57.92V, which is a little under the 58.8 that the Boston Swing datasheet says is 100% SoC), then turned off the inverter but left the BMS on and this morning it was balanced down to 0.002 V and sitting perfectly stable!

Here's a shot of the JK BMS app's stats page after I've been running everything from the battery for half of the day:
View attachment 152792
The max & min strings are always different, there doesn't seem to be any weaknesses displaying (yet!)

As an aside, I'm interested to know how it calculates the balance wire resistances. I cut the balance wires to suit & if you follow the numbers, S1 is shortest, going up to S7 and S8, then they get shorter again as strings 9-14 get closer to the BMS. How the heck does it figure this out automatically?!
@-C-
contact me, i can do with your help on exactly what is needed for mine - i want my GBLI5001 growatt battery to be detected by my new 3kw Solis inverter basically.

regards
 
Last edited:
Another battery resurrected with a new BMS :)
Now the sp2000 is set to lead acid mode, let's see how much will charge and discharge
@giangy11


i am following the progress on your project.

did you succeed?
what wires did you route from the JKBMS to the RJ45 on the Original Batt Case?
Did you look into the Parallel connection of the BMS possibly using the RS485 that comes with the JKBMS

regards
 
Does anyone know where i can get the CAN and RS485 cable from?

mine came without it and i am not sure what they expect me to do without the cable with the JKBMS....its practically useless

i mean how do they expect us to connect the JKBMS to the inverter without either of the cables??/

1707264680734.png
Help pls

regards
 
Just a heads up
I’m using the spa3000 now in lead acid mode with the gbli5001 and it goes down to 0 percent dod if you want it to
I was getting only 1kw out of my 5kw battery with the original bms which kept on tripping out
Put a different bms on it in lead acid mode dod 80 percent now get 5kw out of it
 
Don't know if anyone can help. Just bought an sp3000s, not installed it yet but looking through the settings I can change everything but AC charge as it requires a 4 digit pin. Does anyone know the standard pin code?

Cheers
 
Well this is annoying. Fitted the SP3000-s earlier. Changed over from an SP2000. Used all the same sensors etc. It's all working ok apart from.... The CT sensor! Thinks I'm importing near 2.5-3kw constantly and I'm actually exporting ~100w confirmed through myenergi. Anyone have any ideas of what I can try? Looks like I need a new ct sensor?
 
sorry for the barrage. just did a test. With no sun.... and the battery discharging to cover the load it sits at 1.2-1.3kW discharge with about 0.9kW of that being exported. This is with myenergi eddi turned off. With it on the discharge rate keeps increasing as they are fighting each other. So there appears to be a 900W offset from zero export. Im not sure what I can try apart form different CT clamps and see if I get lucky. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

James
 
So I talked to the seller and he had one of these...
1000033966.png

So I installed it and exactly the same behaviour. Having thought this would be a simple plug and play installation I am now thinking I don't have the time for this, so you might find an SP3000s on eBay soon!
 
I have a programmer and the various firmwares for the different versions of these Darfon BMS boards.
Just a case of re flashing the firmware to reset.
Lots of these batteries have been binned needlessly.
Where is it possible to get these firmware? I have a GBLI2701 that was run down to 20V, but I manually charged it back up to 42V to find only two battery packs are dead. I have replaced these ones but the BMS gives red light when I switch on. I've managed to talk to the PIC18F cpu but not sure what data to wipe in the EEPROM to reset the BMS and clear the red light.

If anyone can share firmware from a working unit it would be appreciated.
 
Here is the connection point to extract / read firmware for anyone interested in helping out.
On the BMS board it appears Pin1= VPP/MCLR, Pin2= VDD, Pin3=VSS, Pin4= PGD, Pin5= PGC

thumbnail_image0.jpg
 
Don't know if anyone can help. Just bought an sp3000s, not installed it yet but looking through the settings I can change everything but AC charge as it requires a 4 digit pin. Does anyone know the standard pin code?

Cheers
It's 5678
 
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