DC to DC Buck Coverter

[Rorymax10]

By way of explanation: I want to be able to power an appliance from 12v DC when off grid.

I have read that a12v DC Plug and Socket (Cigarette lighter type) is not particularly safe in use.

In my case it will be in a caravan (trailer) where I want to power a router for use with my tablet\laptop.

The router comes with a 220\240v 'plug\transformer', the 'plug\transformer' converts the 220v\230v supply power to 12v - 1amp.
I could power the inverter using a 12v dc adapter plug (cigarette lighter type) that has an appropriate connector to the router, but would it be safer to mount a buck converter to power the router?

If a Buck Converter would be the safer\best option how would the buck converter be described? i.e. what do I order?

If there is a better option I would be grateful to be advised.

Thank you.

 

[SeaGal]

What would your power source be that you want to use with the buck converter? Buck converters are for reducing DC voltage.

 

[MisterSandals]

The router comes with a 220\240v 'plug\transformer', the 'plug\transformer' converts the 220v\230v supply power to 12v - 1amp.

For this, going from cig lighter directly to router is an easy choice and solution.

What is your laptop/tablet DC power input requirements? (amp and volts)
They may exceed what YOUR cig lighter is rated for (check your manual).

 

[Horsefly]

If I understand correctly, he has 12VDC available in the caravan, and he has a router that runs off of 12VDC (but normally uses a wall wart to convert from ~230VAC to the 12VDC). If that is true, I think he should be able to just skip the transformer / wall wart and power it directly from the DC source in the caravan.

On the other hand, the router may be looking for 12VAC (he didn't say), which creates a different problem. Either way, a buck converter is not the solution.

 

[Rorymax10]

SeaGal: Power source is 12v DC.
Mister Sandals: I don't need to power the laptop\tablet, just the Router only.
Horsefly: Your interpretation is correct, and the router requires 12v DC.

I'm satisfied that my question has been answered and that a Buck Converter is not a the solution.
I will just go with the cig lighter option.

Thanks for your patience everyone and sorry for the poor explanation of my initial question.
Regards,

 

[SeaGal]

OK, thanks - that's clearer then. Just run the laptop 12C dc from the 12v dc supply, yours is not a situation where a buck is applicable.

In my experience, however, cig sockets, whilst convenient, aren't the most reliable contacts. Far better to hardwire a suitably fused 2.5mm power socket.

If you do end up using the cig socket, it will likely be fused at 10 or 15A, so make sure your wire is up to that or add an inline fuse - otherwise your wire could become a cigarette lighter!

 

[Rorymax10]

OK, thanks - that's clearer then. Just run the laptop 12C dc from the 12v dc supply, yours is not a situation where a buck is applicable.

In my experience, however, cig sockets, whilst convenient, aren't the most reliable contacts. Far better to hardwire a suitably fused 2.5mm power socket.

If you do end up using the cig socket, it will likely be fused at 10 or 15A, so make sure your wire is up to that or add an inline fuse - otherwise your wire could become a cigarette lighter!

Cheers for that, I will look into powering the router from a 2.5mm power socket.
?

 

[Supervstech]

Keep in mind, if the cig socket is in a motor vehicle, the output voltage will be 14ish volts when driving...

If your router requires EXACTLY 12V, then 14 could cause issues.

 

[Rorymax10]

Keep in mind, if the cig socket is in a motor vehicle, the output voltage will be 14ish volts when driving...

If your router requires EXACTLY 12V, then 14 could cause issues.

Good point, when I am towing the caravan the tow vehicle charges the leisure battery at about 13.8 volts, I will isolate the auxiliary fuse box before driving off, I would make it a point to disconnect the router and stow it before travelling, but one can always forget .

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I'm pretty sure I've trashed a couple of DSL modems running them at 13.8V. They tend to last about 6-12 months. I'm on my last one (switching to starlink), otherwise, I'd get a 9-40V to 12V converter.

 

[Rorymax10]

I'm pretty sure I've trashed a couple of DSL modems running them at 13.8V. They tend to last about 6-12 months. I'm on my last one (switching to starlink), otherwise, I'd get a 9-40V to 12V converter.

Hi,
Could you send me a link to a 9-40v converter so that I can know for sure what I am looking for, thanks.

 

[Rorymax10]

I'm pretty sure I've trashed a couple of DSL modems running them at 13.8V. They tend to last about 6-12 months. I'm on my last one (switching to starlink), otherwise, I'd get a 9-40V to 12V converter.

Is this the type of device you are referring to?

8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Wate

Feature:1:Waterproof, dustproof, shockproof, small volume, simple installation.2:Not isolation shape DC regulated power supply module, high stability of output.3:Wide voltage input, built-in over current, over voltage, over temperature, short circuit, and automatic protection functions.4:Great...

componentauthority.com

 

[SeaGal]

Yes, he'll be referring to a buck-boost converter. FYI a buck is for reducing dc voltage, boost is for increasing voltage and buck-boost is for up or down, which the one you linked to is.

 

[Rorymax10]

Yes, he'll be referring to a buck-boost converter. FYI a buck is for reducing dc voltage, boost is for increasing voltage and buck-boost is for up or down, which the one you linked to is.

Thank you, I am learning albeit rather slowly, I really appreciate all the help that I get on here.

???

 

[Rorymax10]

Hi All and thanks for bearing with me.

I purchased the buck convertr I linked to in Post #12, I have not put it to use as yet.

I have since read that buck converters can have difficulty maintaining a claimed output voltage (in this case 12v) if the input voltage is at or very close to the output voltage.

I take my 12v power from an onboard 12v leisure battery in a caravan and the voltage cannot be guaranteed not to fluctuate.

If that is the case, would it be better for me to purchase a 'voltage stabiliser'?
( e.g. Voltage Stabiliser )

T.I.A.

 

[SeaGal]

I purchased the buck convertr I linked to in Post #12, I have not put it to use as yet.

I have since read that buck converters can have difficulty maintaining a claimed output voltage (in this case 12v) if the input voltage is at or very close to the output voltage.

The one you linked to in #12 is a buck-boost. That is fine for keeping at 12V, whether the input is above or below 12V.

A buck (only) will reduce, but the input has to be about 1.5V higher than the output - that is not of concern as you haven't bought a buck, you've bought a buck-boost.

 

[Rorymax10]

The one you linked to in #12 is a buck-boost. That is fine for keeping at 12V, whether the input is above or below 12V.

A buck (only) will reduce, but the input has to be about 1.5V higher than the output - that is not of concern as you haven't bought a buck, you've bought a buck-boost.

Thank you so much SeaGal, can I impose on you with another question please?

I intend to supply another device to take power from the same battery that the buck-boost converter is to be connected to.

I attach a photo relating to the device in question, should I use a voltage stabiliser (as lnked in Post #15) or should I purchase another buck-boost converter (as linked in Post #12).

Thanks.

 

[SeaGal]

If you have bought the buck-boost that you referred to in #12 - i.e. this one...

8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Wate

Feature:1:Waterproof, dustproof, shockproof, small volume, simple installation.2:Not isolation shape DC regulated power supply module, high stability of output.3:Wide voltage input, built-in over current, over voltage, over temperature, short circuit, and automatic protection functions.4:Great...

componentauthority.com

Then that will already be able to supply up to 10A's worth of 12V devices, so I don't understand why you would be considered another converter unless the first device you have connected is using 10A itself?

 

[Rorymax10]

If you have bought the buck-boost that you referred to in #12 - i.e. this one...

8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Wate

Feature:1:Waterproof, dustproof, shockproof, small volume, simple installation.2:Not isolation shape DC regulated power supply module, high stability of output.3:Wide voltage input, built-in over current, over voltage, over temperature, short circuit, and automatic protection functions.4:Great...

componentauthority.com

Then that will already be able to supply up to 10A's worth of 12V devices, so I don't understand why you would be considered another converter unless the first device you have connected is using 10A itself?

SeaGal, it is because that I am a neophyte to such equipment that I make poor decisions and choices .?

Could I just connect 2 sockets to the buck-boost converter and supply both of my devices that way.

Your kind help is much appreciated.