Looks good. I would probably skip the 250 ANL and reduce the 250T to 150-175 amps for that 1500w inverter. I would also skip the house battery switch and just pull the cable for service. Mine goes years between needing disconnect so for me it just adds resistance and another fail point.
Possibly reduce the 75 amp blue sea breaker to match the 65 on the other side. Or maybe there is a reason for that?
Doubt the 50 amp combiner breaker is needed except to use as a switch. Again once in service it could be years before a disconnect is needed.
I always hear good things with the Tripp-Lite inverters. Will that run the microwave?
Thanks for the feedback time2roll.
I realized after having things set up on the test bench last week that the ANL fuse is not needed, mainly because the Tripp Lite inverter has an internal DC breaker. I had it there to protect the wire from the inverter to the busbar when the inverter is in charge mode.
As a sidebar, I don't think I want the 250 ANL anywhere in the circuit anyway. When bench testing the setup with a 1500 watt space heater, the ANL fuse got too hot to touch within about 5 minutes of running! I took it out of the circuit and installed the Class T, which stayed comfortable to the touch after running for 3 hours straight.
The class T is a 250 amp because this particular inverter/charger unit can run at 3000 watts for 10 seconds, it can also run at at 2250 watts for 60 minutes. I had this inverter/charger combo installed in my converted shuttle bus, and it ran a 800 watt microwave fine. The RV1512UL by Tripp Lite is a beast, it weighs 46 lbs. most of that weight is the transformer, the windings are massive. It has served me well for the 7 years I have had it.
The fuse arrangement with 65 amp on one side and 75 on the other side is per the Renogy installation manual for the DCC50S.
The breaker on the solar combiner was built in to the preassembled unit, so I will probably keep it. It will be a handy disconnect for the solar panels as you mentioned.