diy solar

diy solar

DIY California Permit'd Sol-Ark Build

06/15
Ran the Cat5e cable for the CT's for the Sol-Ark. Was able to get them to clamp on the bus bars after loosening the main breaker.( you can kinda see in the background)
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Also ran and attached the DC side in the roof top junction boxes.
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Turned everything on and was getting 240v on one leg of the Sol-ark. Shut everything down and tracked down all my wires. See if you can see the issue.

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Good job on the Sol-ark for handling my wiring mistake like a champ. I only got shocked on the case once.

Also I 100% hate that wiring job for that transition from SER to THHN. I am going to redo that before getting it inspected.
Once I swapped the wires around to their proper home everything fired up perfectly and the Solar started backfeeding into the panel and powering the loads. I had already previously setup the Sol-Ark to not sell back at all since I don't have my interconnection agreement signed off on.

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I did run into some odd hunting issues with the MPPT trying to match the load.

I reached out to Sol-Ark and they informed me that with no backfeeding happening I would need batteries to act as a buffer to prevent the hunting.

Now to search for some batteries.
 
06/24

I purchased a 5 pack of batteries from CurrentConnected with their stand. Packaging and delivery was perfect.
I unboxed, wired and set them up. No more hunting from the Sol-Ark.

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System is now running in home mode and storing all the solar and just covering the houses needs.
I did order the wrong gauge wire. I am using 1/0 105c when I should be using 2/0. I've limited the amps available from the Sol-Ark to compensate for the smaller gauge wire. Also running a 200 amp Class T fuse.

RSD was also mounted and working perfectly.
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07/08 update.
I got lucky and Santan Solar started selling the panel that I was missing. I ordered the single panel from Santan and it came perfectly package and in great condition.

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Panel went up same day and I am playing with the configuration between the 3 arrays and their orientation East vs West. I need to wait until I can backfeed to the grid to see what the actual production is total between the different configurations but for now everything is working properly.
 
10/06 update.

Now that the system has been working and offsetting usage I got lazy and have been letting it run.

What's left to do:
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RSD switch - I purchased a Schneider RSD switch which is made by IMO to install next to my DC isolators. This will finish the RSD portion. I thought about just saying that the DC Isolators were the RSD as turning them both off will kill power to the RSD modules on the panels....but by using an actual switch I can utilize one of the pins on the Sol-Ark to not only cut power to the Solar but also turn off the Sol-Ark in an emergency. I think its the proper way to do things.

Main Breaker De-Rate - I've been putting this one off as it requires me to call the utility and pull my meter leaving me without power. I have the 175 amp breaker just trying to coordinate a time to swap it (there is never a good time)

Junction boxes - Already swapped those out for larger units and reran the boxes so they would pass inspection (no photos)

Trim the IronRidge racking to the panels - I've been putting this one off in case the inspector requires me to change anything. For now its just an eyesore.

Seal up any air gaps from penetrations and tidy up.

Once the RSD and Main Breaker De-Rate is done I can schedule my inspection. Once inspection has been scheduled I need to unplug and hide all my batteries as my system was permitted only to be a Grid-Tie system. Once inspection is done then I can get my meter swapped by the utility. Once Utility swaps meter I can wire batteries back up and start backfeeding power to the grid.
 
10/06 update.

Now that the system has been working and offsetting usage I got lazy and have been letting it run.

What's left to do:
View attachment 115303

RSD switch - I purchased a Schneider RSD switch which is made by IMO to install next to my DC isolators. This will finish the RSD portion. I thought about just saying that the DC Isolators were the RSD as turning them both off will kill power to the RSD modules on the panels....but by using an actual switch I can utilize one of the pins on the Sol-Ark to not only cut power to the Solar but also turn off the Sol-Ark in an emergency. I think its the proper way to do things.

Main Breaker De-Rate - I've been putting this one off as it requires me to call the utility and pull my meter leaving me without power. I have the 175 amp breaker just trying to coordinate a time to swap it (there is never a good time)

Junction boxes - Already swapped those out for larger units and reran the boxes so they would pass inspection (no photos)

Trim the IronRidge racking to the panels - I've been putting this one off in case the inspector requires me to change anything. For now its just an eyesore.

Seal up any air gaps from penetrations and tidy up.

Once the RSD and Main Breaker De-Rate is done I can schedule my inspection. Once inspection has been scheduled I need to unplug and hide all my batteries as my system was permitted only to be a Grid-Tie system. Once inspection is done then I can get my meter swapped by the utility. Once Utility swaps meter I can wire batteries back up and start backfeeding power to the grid.
Nice build.

Final cost update?
 
Nice build.

Final cost update?
Costs so far:
$90 - Permit plans
$160 - City Utility Permit fee
$436.96 - County Permit
$6004.18 - Solar Panels
$6425 - Inverter
(Returned the CT's)
$644.20- RapidShutdown (Added switch)
$1913.24 - Racking
$2255.24 - Electrical and Enclosures and wiring and materials
~~~~
$17,928.82 - Total without batteries
~~~~
$10,057.47 - 5-48v batteries with patch cables and rack to mount
$147.57 - Wiring for batteries
~~~~
$28,133.86 - Total with batteries
 
Costs so far:
$90 - Permit plans
$160 - City Utility Permit fee
$436.96 - County Permit
$6004.18 - Solar Panels
$6425 - Inverter
(Returned the CT's)
$644.20- RapidShutdown (Added switch)
$1913.24 - Racking
$2255.24 - Electrical and Enclosures and wiring and materials
~~~~
$17,928.82 - Total without batteries
~~~~
$10,057.47 - 5-48v batteries with patch cables and rack to mount
$147.57 - Wiring for batteries
~~~~
$28,133.86 - Total with batteries
Thanks.

And I see that the batteries were 48V but how many kWh each or total?

I see, 100Ah each or 25kWh total, correct?

 
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It is really nice! I would love some pictures of this complete, it would be great to have on our website! Excellent work
 
It is really nice! I would love some pictures of this complete, it would be great to have on our website! Excellent work
Once I get the battery cables through conduit I'll get you a glamour shot.
The way those SOK's came preprogrammed for the Sol-Ark was magic. I had expected programming to take a bit but after plugging in the RJ-45's and setting the DIP switches it was so quick to recognize and communicate that I though maybe something was wrong. I went through and unplugged each RJ-45 from each battery one at a time and watched the Sol-Ark see one less battery with each unplug.

Then I was like "I guess its good." Plugged them all back in and its been working flawlessly since.
 
Correct. That bundle wasn't available yet and is a great deal!
Yes, $350/kWh is approaching the level that DIY storage just doesn’t make any sense (unless your doing it out of love and as a hobby rather than to save money).

And especially if the battery pack came pre-configured for your inverter.
 
I am doing something similar. Do you have a pic of the transition from aluminum to copper? I think you indicated it was in the meterbox? Thanks
Transition was in the attic that way I could use smaller 6awg copper thhn that is easier to run and can use smaller conduit down the side of the house to the meter and through the ceiling in my garage to the metal raceway.

Transition uses three screw terminal block at each transition mounted in a larger plastic UL listed box that I got from Home Depot.

(Links to come)
 
Transition was in the attic that way I could use smaller 6awg copper thhn that is easier to run and can use smaller conduit down the side of the house to the meter and through the ceiling in my garage to the metal raceway.

Transition uses three screw terminal block at each transition mounted in a larger plastic UL listed box that I got from Home Depot.

(Links to come)
Thank you
 
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