Which model of inverter do you own?Correct,
My only point was that it doesn't have to be a grid-tied inverter to do this. Because mine does, and is not.
Which model of inverter do you own?Correct,
My only point was that it doesn't have to be a grid-tied inverter to do this. Because mine does, and is not.
I went through the same. Every time I thought I had found a lower cost solution/inverter, I would find SOMETHING that was a major con for either my current application, or a future needs/wants. I also waited months for new products to be released, or for them to be proven in the field. For months and months, everything either proved to be riddled with issues, would be out "very soon" (and also likely to also have teething issues), turned out to be false hopes, etc. Couple this with most of these products having little to no domestic (US) based CS, TS, or reasonable and quick avenue for service and I found myself asking "what was I really gaining by saving a few thousand on the heart of the system by going with these lower cost options?"
After almost a year of waiting for something to meet all of my needs, have excellent CS, TS, and true domestic service, all at a lower cost, I finally realized I'd be money and time ahead just biting the bullet on a Sol-Ark 15k. It was possibly close to 2x what I wanted to spend, but SA is well sorted, it offered a much easier installation (with no CLP/sub-panels), the 200A bypass (no need for the ATS) and whole house BU, massive AC and DC coupling, lower cost battery options, all the features I could ever dream of, a ten year warranty, and possibly the best 24/7 domestic service one could ask for. And again, a ton of room for growth and configuration options, basically unmatched by anything else.
Yes I paid more for the SA, but when I look back at all the stuff I read about, waited for, and fretted dealing directly with China over, I wish I never considered anything else... just to save a little (possibly only short-term) money. As stated earlier, pay now, or pay more later... sometimes it's a lot easier to just do it right the first time, and I now think that's the case (at least for me anyway) with inverters. IMO the SA is a no-brainer, even for the additional $. YMMV...
CorrectSo i suppose i don't understand how this works:
I understand what you mean about 2 AC sources must be in parallel.
I NOW understand the concept of the one shared buck/boost converter..
I know that the mppt output is a DC source.
I know that when my Growatt is using ac input for anything, it's in bypass/passthrough and i assumed that meant the inverter output was physically open-circuited to the ac output terminals by the transfer switch relay..
But if all that is true, then how would the DC solar be used to 'load shave' the AC? The only way i see that being possible is if the inverter is in fact still inverting, frequency-matching and phase-syncing to the AC input (which we know it does all the time anyway), and then paralleling to the AC input.
Which in theory means it WOULD have a connection back to grid (if ac input was grid), and then the only thing making it 'zero export' aka off-grid (am i using these wrong?) is the software managing it. Hardware wise something like flipping off the main breaker on the output, or grid side going down because a lineman is wanting to work on something next door, would seem to me like it would result in 'export' if the software did not react fast enough.
Off grid inverters do not need an AC source (the grid) to operate. They usually have a battery component.and is this why so many cheap inverters are called 'off grid', because hardware wise they can't prevent grid export and so can't hit some regulatory threshold for legally being connected to grid?
My 30k worth of inverters (with the 30% rebate) will be a total cost of $4k.And if you can, take 30% off, then the 15k doesn’t sting as much. Heck, get another one as a back up! ?
Mine should come out to be $5670 each, delivered.
So it is in parallel (grid tied). You will find that your zero export is inaccurate. I can believe it can run without the grid. All of these inverters have the option to use solar and battery power.I have the Growatt SPF-5000-ES.
It has SUB mode. (Solar Utility Battery)
In this mode it parallels the AC source with the inverter output. Solar provides its full available power and the AC source covers the rest of the loads. In this mode it starts by pulling the first 500w from AC source. (To avoid any exporting) then it uses all available solar. If solar doesn't cover the rest of the loads, the AC source covers whatever is left. It works just like grid-tied with zero export, in this mode. The difference is that it doesn't require a constant AC source to run.
Yes , in parallel.So it is in parallel (grid tied). You will find that your zero export is inaccurate. I can believe it can run without the grid. All of these inverters have the option to use solar and battery power.
Not necessary, for an off grid inverter that can't export.Do you have an interconnect agreement with your utility? Any time the unit is in parallel with the grid it can export to it.
Good point. I had forgotten about that trait of many 'grid tied' inverters.Off grid inverters do not need an AC source (the grid) to operate. They usually have a battery component.
Grid-tied inverters require an outside AC source to function.
But it can export. Likely it is exporting under certain conditions. The techniques it uses to overcome exporting are not the same as not being in parallel provide.Yes , in parallel.
Similar to grid-tied, but not. It's only one way. It keeps a 500w load from the grid. (To accommodate for surge, and reaction time)
Not necessary, for an off grid inverter that can't export.
in fact you have double conversion in place on some voltronic base. ACin -> DC + solar DC => DC_to_ACout .I have the Growatt SPF-5000-ES.
It has SUB mode. (Solar Utility Battery)
In this mode it parallels the AC source with the inverter output. Solar provides its full available power and the AC source covers the rest of the loads. In this mode it starts by pulling the first 500w from AC source. (To avoid any exporting) then it uses all available solar. If solar doesn't cover the rest of the loads, the AC source covers whatever is left. It works just like grid-tied with zero export, in this mode. The difference is that it doesn't require a constant AC source to run.
Ah... so the utility AC is simply putting out more DC to the inverter alongside the DC from solar and battery. In that case it is not grid tie and would not require an interconnect agreement. There never is any parallel happening on the AC side.in fact you have double conversion in place on some voltronic base. ACin -> DC + solar DC => DC_to_ACout .
ACin is never connected to ACout, @Mattb4 is right ;-)
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yep, they are off grid inverter ;-)Ah... so the utility AC is simply putting out more DC to the inverter alongside the DC from solar and battery. In that case it is not grid tie and would not require an interconnect agreement. There never is any parallel happening on the AC side.
and this double conversion is necessary to get the 0 delay transfer switch on some modelyep, they are off grid inverter ;-)
they open the contacts under the surge current limit of inverter, which for 15K inverter is spec'd as 30kVA, or for 240vac, is >125 amps of current through relay when relay contacts open up. Very tough on relay contacts.
I personally would never count on my total 200 amp grid connect service to feed through the inverter pass-thru relay.
Same here,I think it was July 2021 when it was commisioned and since then it just sits in the utility room and powers the house. We have had several blackouts and did not even notice. The AC's and rest of the house run all night on batteries and in the morning the sun comes out just in time to take over and start powering the house and charging back the batteries.I agree! I have no regrets spending on my Sol-Ark 12k. I was looking at my notifications yesterday, and realize my system hasn't had a fault or reboot since June 2021..... I service a lot of different systems, but nothing "just works" like the Sol-Ark.
I suppose that depends on the model your talking about.I know that when my Growatt is using ac input for anything, it's in bypass/passthrough and i assumed that meant the inverter output was physically open-circuited to the ac output terminals by the transfer switch relay..
I don't believe that is the case. If it were going through the DC bus. It would be able to share the loads between grid and battery. Which it can't. I believe that it is paralleling AC in with the inverter output. I say this because the bypass relay doesn't change state between bypass and SUB mode.in fact you have double conversion in place on some voltronic base. ACin -> DC + solar DC => DC_to_ACout .
ACin is never connected to ACout, @Mattb4 is right ;-)
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of course it is available on some model only. there is never ACin paralleling on ACout on off grid voltronic inverter.I don't believe that is the case. If it were going through the DC bus. It would be able to share the loads between grid and battery. Which it can't. I believe that it is paralleling AC in with the inverter output. I say this because the bypass relay doesn't change state between bypass and SUB mode.
Now that you mention it, I think the only times I ever experimented with the AC input while the sun was still up was when I first got the inverters set up back in May.. it’s possible I’m misremembering what actually happened those months ago. ?I suppose that depends on the model your talking about.
The growatt SPF3000TL (the version I have) will only share between solar and battery. If your on grid, it does not use the inverter.
as an example, 2500w of load 1000w of solar It will pull 1500w of energy from the battery.
if it has transitioned to the grid and there is a 2500w load it pulls 2500w from the grid.
I'm not sure how other models work. But I have figured out how mine works.of course it is available on some model only
you're still right on the fact that it can't work with utility and battery at the same time to power the load. The note about MAX capability to power the load with any 1 or 2 combinations of any input is in contradiction with the documentation. I have a PIP-MAX in a box, I'll give a try.I'm not sure how other models work. But I have figured out how mine works.
Where did you see this note?The note about MAX capability to power the load with any 1 or 2 combinations of any input is in contradiction with the documentation.
ok, when utility is involve to power the load, battery can only be charge. can never have utility and battery at the same time to power the load.you're still right on the fact that it can't work with utility and battery at the same time to power the load. The note about MAX capability to power the load with any 1 or 2 combinations of any input is in contradiction with the documentation. I have a PIP-MAX in a box, I'll give a try.