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Doubt about 6415an epever power and panels in watts

frankz66

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Joined
Sep 6, 2022
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Aci Sant'Antonio Catania
Hello everyone, my question is a beginner's question, so I ask you to clarify what I'm asking.

I currently use a string of 6 panels of 180 watts 12 v ( VOC 23.1 each ) for a total voc of 138.6 9 A .

The batteries are 4 agm of 12 v 110 amps in parallel for a total of 440 amps with 50% dod 2560 kwh .

My regulator is a pever 6415 AN which as I read from the manual supports a charge to the 12v batteries of about 750 watts. The manual reports a maximum of 1125 watts at 12v .

What I don't understand is, if at the moment I have 1080 watts with 138.6 volts of VOC but I only have 9 amps of delivery. As much as I have learned or rather I hope I have learned well, considering that my epever is a 60 amps and supports a maximum of 150 volts of VOC, I could say that I am using it little ... as if I bought another 6 panels identical to the first ones, I could create a 2s2p with 138 of VOC that would always remain so and have 18 Amps for a total of about 2485 kwh.

So as a beginner I wonder: if epever declares me max pv 1125 watts at 12 v, I would end up with twice as many watts because the amperes I'm using are still below the power threshold of 6415AN (60 AMPS).

So could I install a second string? Why what declares epever as pv 1125 watts at 12 v ???

Thank you for those who want to answer me.

Ps: If so to cover the 60 amps I could add other strings always in parallel to even reach 5 kwh.

Guys, I apologize right now if I've written some nonsense but I'm in my first experiences.

Thank you .
 
Stop immediately, and get that six panel string disconnected. You might damage your controller. That Voc of 23.1V is at room temperature. The Voc will go up as the temperature goes down. Right at freezing, the Voc of your string will bump up to ~155V. I know you are right in the middle of the Medterranean, but does the winter low drop down to freezing? The Voc should be passing above 150V just slightly above freezing.

The real reason why you are only seeing 9A going into the batteries is because the batteries are almost full, and the controller is throttling back what the batteries are being fed, exactly as is it supposed to.

This is an inverter-based system? Which is it? If you really want to see your panels at their full output, you need to apply a load about as big, or slightly bigger than your total array wattage. Since you have 1080W of solar, a good load would be a toaster or toaster oven that consumes at least 1000W. If you have a DC only system, you need to come up with DC loads that would amount to about 1000W.

The reason Epever mentions 1125W of solar is because they are incorporating a fudgefactor for real-world production compared to spec sheet production. Remember that the panel's rating is determined in an artificial test chamber at 25C under artificial light at exactly 1000W/square meter. In the real-world your output will be lower.

So, no, you don't want to add a second string. What you should do is re-wire your original string to 3S2P if you think there is any threat of a frost in your area. The first frosty morning, and your controller has the chance to die.

At these power levels, I think it would have been better to start with at least a 24V system. Four parallel batteries at 12V I think is a mistake. Why did you select 12V as your system voltage?
 
Stop immediately, and get that six panel string disconnected. You might damage your controller. That Voc of 23.1V is at room temperature. The Voc will go up as the temperature goes down. Right at freezing, the Voc of your string will bump up to ~155V. I know you are right in the middle of the Medterranean, but does the winter low drop down to freezing? The Voc should be passing above 150V just slightly above freezing.

The real reason why you are only seeing 9A going into the batteries is because the batteries are almost full, and the controller is throttling back what the batteries are being fed, exactly as is it supposed to.

This is an inverter-based system? Which is it? If you really want to see your panels at their full output, you need to apply a load about as big, or slightly bigger than your total array wattage. Since you have 1080W of solar, a good load would be a toaster or toaster oven that consumes at least 1000W. If you have a DC only system, you need to come up with DC loads that would amount to about 1000W.

The reason Epever mentions 1125W of solar is because they are incorporating a fudgefactor for real-world production compared to spec sheet production. Remember that the panel's rating is determined in an artificial test chamber at 25C under artificial light at exactly 1000W/square meter. In the real-world your output will be lower.

So, no, you don't want to add a second string. What you should do is re-wire your original string to 3S2P if you think there is any threat of a frost in your area. The first frosty morning, and your controller has the chance to die.

At these power levels, I think it would have been better to start with at least a 24V system. Four parallel batteries at 12V I think is a mistake. Why did you select 12V as your system voltage?
Hello and thank you for replying. The temperatures here at most can reach 8 degrees centigrade in winter and considering that the epever 6415An manages a VOC of 150 volts, with six panels I should stay in it. the fact that I have 4 12 v batteries in parallel, is in the origin of the realization of the plant, so with today's experience I would do differently. But the question is: I still do not exceed the maximum VOC and the power of the watts of the panels that would reach 1080 watts. the limitation is that this power to the batteries will be limited to a maximum charge of 750 watts, therefore not having a system at least at 24volts so agm series batteries and 24-volt off-grid inverters I can currently take advantage of the panels beyond any 750 watts for further consumption during the morning and afternoon. However, even if I am a princiapiante I believe that in the current configuration of the 9th date by the fact that the panels are in series so only 9 amepere my epever supports 60 amps, theoretically I could arrive with other strings to reach 80% of the power over the 4kwp of power. Clearly with the 12v system it would be necessary to migrate to 24v or even more. But my question was related to the fact: how much power can my 6415AN handle? I also thought of making a 2s2p consisting of 3 panels per string with about 70 volts and 18 amps, after all I had already tried 2s2p with 4 panels at 70 volts. To conclude I could evaluate 2s2p with six panels just so as not to arrive as you write over 150 volts at zero degrees, but here the temperatures come if we really want to exaggerate at 6 degrees !!!
Also you write me this and you do well to warn me that you will be at tension limits and this is true. In fact I am evaluating with these six panels to make u2s2p so about 69 volts but 18 amps, so I would avoid any problem of over voltage. But the question also by absurd hypothesis, could my epever therefore support 60 amps and voc 150 up to managing powers qusi of 5kwp? Correct?
 
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Stop immediately, and get that six panel string disconnected. You might damage your controller. That Voc of 23.1V is at room temperature. The Voc will go up as the temperature goes down. Right at freezing, the Voc of your string will bump up to ~155V. I know you are right in the middle of the Medterranean, but does the winter low drop down to freezing? The Voc should be passing above 150V just slightly above freezing.

The real reason why you are only seeing 9A going into the batteries is because the batteries are almost full, and the controller is throttling back what the batteries are being fed, exactly as is it supposed to.

This is an inverter-based system? Which is it? If you really want to see your panels at their full output, you need to apply a load about as big, or slightly bigger than your total array wattage. Since you have 1080W of solar, a good load would be a toaster or toaster oven that consumes at least 1000W. If you have a DC only system, you need to come up with DC loads that would amount to about 1000W.

The reason Epever mentions 1125W of solar is because they are incorporating a fudgefactor for real-world production compared to spec sheet production. Remember that the panel's rating is determined in an artificial test chamber at 25C under artificial light at exactly 1000W/square meter. In the real-world your output will be lower.

So, no, you don't want to add a second string. What you should do is re-wire your original string to 3S2P if you think there is any threat of a frost in your area. The first frosty morning, and your controller has the chance to die.

At these power levels, I think it would have been better to start with at least a 24V system. Four parallel batteries at 12V I think is a mistake. Why did you select 12V as your system voltage?
Also I ask you, if I configure 6 panels the two strings then we go down considerably 70 volts for a total of 18 amps, to optimize the charge I could put 3 panels to the east at sunrise and three panels to the south? I don't have shadows, so should I put the blocking diodes in the strings?
 
Also I ask you, if I configure 6 panels the two strings then we go down considerably 70 volts for a total of 18 amps, to optimize the charge I could put 3 panels to the east at sunrise and three panels to the south?

That is a possibility, some people do that.
 
Stop immediately, and get that six panel string disconnected. You might damage your controller. That Voc of 23.1V is at room temperature. The Voc will go up as the temperature goes down. Right at freezing, the Voc of your string will bump up to ~155V. I know you are right in the middle of the Medterranean, but does the winter low drop down to freezing? The Voc should be passing above 150V just slightly above freezing.

The real reason why you are only seeing 9A going into the batteries is because the batteries are almost full, and the controller is throttling back what the batteries are being fed, exactly as is it supposed to.

This is an inverter-based system? Which is it? If you really want to see your panels at their full output, you need to apply a load about as big, or slightly bigger than your total array wattage. Since you have 1080W of solar, a good load would be a toaster or toaster oven that consumes at least 1000W. If you have a DC only system, you need to come up with DC loads that would amount to about 1000W.

The reason Epever mentions 1125W of solar is because they are incorporating a fudgefactor for real-world production compared to spec sheet production. Remember that the panel's rating is determined in an artificial test chamber at 25C under artificial light at exactly 1000W/square meter. In the real-world your output will be lower.

So, no, you don't want to add a second string. What you should do is re-wire your original string to 3S2P if you think there is any threat of a frost in your area. The first frosty morning, and your controller has the chance to die.

At these power levels, I think it would have been better to start with at least a 24V system. Four parallel batteries at 12V I think is a mistake. Why did you select 12V as your system voltage?
Hi, I installed the six identical panels and I wanted to make you participate in the results. In the images you can see the maximum power recorded with six panels and above all the volts. I know I'm at the limit in voltage or rather I have to stop here.
 

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