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Doubt about lifepo4 and float .

Bottom line - faster charge to full with higher voltage. Longer charge time to full with lower voltage.
You decide. Probably better for cells to not stress them at higher voltage charge.
Everyone decides what is best for their own needs depending on what their system is .
So you get to decide for yourself after your own research .
Thank you for the time you have dedicated to me.
 
Guys I wanted to update the post, where the manufacturer insists that the float must be equal to the boost. The default profile of Epever is the one attached for lifepo4, in your opinion if I purchase the 51.2v box with ready-made grade A cells, I insert or better still leave the Epever parameters or I also have to insert the 58.4v in the float ? basically he says that float, boost, absorption, and maximum charge all at 58.4! mha!
 

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Guys I wanted to update the post, where the manufacturer insists that the float must be equal to the boost. The default profile of Epever is the one attached for lifepo4, in your opinion if I purchase the 51.2v box with ready-made grade A cells, I insert or better still leave the Epever parameters or I also have to insert the 58.4v in the float ? basically he says that float, boost, absorption, and maximum charge all at 58.4! mha!

Explain here in a video.

The battery cell go really fast to 3.4 volt
Its how the volt from a lipo4 works .
Its stay long time on its 3.4 volt.
So with a higher float the charge will be longer charge the battery on a higher ampère.
Well if the float is reached that charger go to low ampère mode.
That is done for lead battery but a lipo4 do not need it.
A lead battery will cook by the higher ampère and volt , that problem do not have lipo4 battery.

I hope i explain it well .
English is not my main language.
And never go to school for it.
 
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However the producers are DCHOUSE and ECOWORTH. Any feedback?
I have two of the ecoworthy 48V 50Ah in the steel pizza box form factor. They are solid and good value when on sale. I have absorb set to 57V and then float at 55.2V. Disregard their suggestion of 58.4V.
 
quick-voltage-chart-lfp-jpg.150247
 
I have two of the ecoworthy 48V 50Ah in the steel pizza box form factor. They are solid and good value when on sale. I have absorb set to 57V and then float at 55.2V. Disregard their suggestion of 58.4V.
Hello and thank you, so can you confirm that they are valid? Furthermore, from what you write, if you look carefully at the epever parameters for the default lifepo4s they only have a max voltage of 58.40v (and this is good) and a bust of 58v and finally a float of 55.2. Since the two manufacturers are the same, I think DChouse is a bit better in terms of bms and quality, having seen some teardown videos. Welcome to have your opinion on whether to buy dchouse or not. Thank you very much .
 
I have two of the ecoworthy 48V 50Ah in the steel pizza box form factor. They are solid and good value when on sale. I have absorb set to 57V and then float at 55.2V. Disregard their suggestion of 58.4V.
Brucey, you have two so in parallel I guess? If you write this to me, it means that you have changed the boost from 58 to 57, keeping only the float as for my epever at 55.20. In my opinion, the max voltage should be left at 58.40 as the maximum charging peak...
I have two of the ecoworthy 48V 50Ah in the steel pizza box form factor. They are solid and good value when on sale. I have absorb set to 57V and then float at 55.2V. Disregard their suggestion of 58.4V.
 
Looking carefully I made some changes on how I should enter the parameters for this attached 51.2v pack. I only adjusted the boost to 57.60 without temperature compensation and the overvolt disconnect parameter of epever to 59.90 because as everyone knows, edge cloud problems lead epever to slowly manage the voltage drops declared in the parameters, under penalty of my inverter alarm at only 62v maximum! (now validated for this maximum limit). @Brucey what do you think?
 
Looking carefully I made some changes on how I should enter the parameters for this attached 51.2v pack. I only adjusted the boost to 57.60 without temperature compensation and the overvolt disconnect parameter of epever to 59.90 because as everyone knows, edge cloud problems lead epever to slowly manage the voltage drops declared in the parameters, under penalty of my inverter alarm at only 62v maximum! (now validated for this maximum limit). @Brucey what do you think?
Sorry I don't have any epever experience. Yes two in parallel, then connected to a lynx power in, with midnite mnedc250 DC breaker. There's other batteries also on the bus, two 24V 100Ah ecoworthy in series, two djlb 24 100 Ah, and four 12V 100Ah Redodo minis.
 
Brucey, you have two so in parallel I guess? If you write this to me, it means that you have changed the boost from 58 to 57, keeping only the float as for my epever at 55.20. In my opinion, the max voltage should be left at 58.40 as the maximum charging peak...
A lot of people have given you good advice and pointed you towards info from Off Grid Garage videos where it is all explained. If you want to ruin or shorten your batteries life - that is okay .
 
A lot of people have given you good advice and pointed you towards info from Off Grid Garage videos where it is all explained. If you want to ruin or shorten your batteries life - that is okay .
Hi, I don't want to reduce the life of the batteries in an ironic sense, but what I say does not come from me directly from the battery manufacturer as previously written. This means that if they sell these accumulations, out of 10 sales then 9 are returned because they are already ruined.
 
Sorry I don't have any epever experience. Yes two in parallel, then connected to a lynx power in, with midnite mnedc250 DC breaker. There's other batteries also on the bus, two 24V 100Ah ecoworthy in series, two djlb 24 100 Ah, and four 12V 100Ah Redodo minis.
Brucey discovered a curiosity, but is the round in series or parallel?
 
I think DChouse is a bit better in terms of bms and quality, having seen some teardown videos.
I have been looking at ECO-Worthy and DC House. DC House is a little cheaper. In your opinion besides for price the DC House has a better BMS?
 
Hi, I don't want to reduce the life of the batteries in an ironic sense, but what I say does not come from me directly from the battery manufacturer as previously written. This means that if they sell these accumulations, out of 10 sales then 9 are returned because they are already ruined.
ha ha - good luck on a warranty !
 
I have been looking at ECO-Worthy and DC House. DC House is a little cheaper. In your opinion besides for price the DC House has a better BMS?
Stick with metal cased batteries you can open up and have been reviewed and tested like SOK or Orient Power if you want 12v ( or 48v) . I got a 12v Orient Power and looked in it and load tested it in two videos. Here is the look at build construction - second video is of load test.
 
ha ha - good luck on a warranty !
Forget the guarantee, if you can give me a technical answer because these two quite well-known manufacturers insist on these parameters as shown previously. Unless, those who design these accumulations are just incompetent, but I have my doubts.
 
Stick with metal cased batteries you can open up and have been reviewed and tested like SOK or Orient Power if you want 12v ( or 48v) . I got a 12v Orient Power and looked in it and load tested it in two videos. Here is the look at build construction - second video is of load test.
I have 4 12v 100aH Eco-flow plastic batteries. I wanted to take them apart and put them in one metal box. I look at the 48V 50AH packs already assembled and it isn't worth the work on the (4) 12V. The batteries have been great but I have this BURNING desire to put them in metal... or just buy (2) 48V 50aH :)

As far as any Warranty, shipping bay Lithium isn't cheap so that will never happen.
 
I have 4 12v 100aH Eco-flow plastic batteries. I wanted to take them apart and put them in one metal box. I look at the 48V 50AH packs already assembled and it isn't worth the work on the (4) 12V. The batteries have been great but I have this BURNING desire to put them in metal... or just buy (2) 48V 50aH :)

As far as any Warranty, shipping bay Lithium isn't cheap so that will never happen.
most of the 48v server racks are 100 ah not 50 . They have been selling for between 1300 and 1500 in US - plus shipping which has to be freight since they weigh 100 pounds. But even with those there are different build qualities and some are only 15 cells instead of 16. I guess if you stick with the SOK , Orient Power, or Signature Solar you are okay for build quality though I prefer the SOK or Orient Power that don't have the cells interconnects welded on . But you are right - at those prices if you add up the cost of battery box, bms, wiring, breaker that isn't a bad deal. Though you can spend a bit more if you wanted to do it yourself and build one three times the capacity . That is what I am presently working on .
 
most of the 48v server racks are 100 ah not 50 . They have been selling for between 1300 and 1500 in US - plus shipping which has to be freight since they weigh 100 pounds. But even with those there are different build qualities and some are only 15 cells instead of 16. I guess if you stick with the SOK , Orient Power, or Signature Solar you are okay for build quality though I prefer the SOK or Orient Power that don't have the cells interconnects welded on . But you are right - at those prices if you add up the cost of battery box, bms, wiring, breaker that isn't a bad deal. Though you can spend a bit more if you wanted to do it yourself and build one three times the capacity . That is what I am presently working on .
So in the case of ecoworth or dchouse in the box , have 16 cell . Is it possible that being 50 amps and not 100 amps they have a different bulk voltage?
 
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So in the case of ecoworth or dchouse is it possible that it is 15 cells and the value of 58.40 is correct?
No they are 16 cell batteries. if they were 15S then you would need to drop the charge voltage even further
 

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