F150 ProPower issue with solar system

[OT66]

Hello, I hope this is ok in the general area. I recently got my F150 Powerboost with the 7.2KW ProPower onboard. When I plugged into it, I instantly got a ground fault. Looking on some other forums, people trying to do this to power their home have required a transfer switch, but I thought maybe there was an easier, cheaper solution for me since I do not have grid power. My shore power is the generator. Prior to the F150 I plugged into inverter/generators which would charge my batteries and run the cabin at the same time without issue. What I've learned is that they worked because they were all floating neutral generators whereas the ProPower is a bonded neutral. Since my cabin is bonded as well it's creating a ground fault loop? I will try to explain my configuration and if anyone can lend some insight it is greatly appreciated.

I have an L14-30 240V plug that plugs directly into generator. That plug is wired into my Magnum MS4024PAE inverter. The inverter then connects to my battery bank, and to my electrical panel inside the cabin.

The solutions I have been given so far have been a neutral switching transfer switch? Or disconnecting the ground wire from the cord that plugs into the generator which I know is not a good idea. I don't know a lot about a transfer switch, but I don't love the idea of having to switch a bunch of breakers every time I want to switch to generator power. If my battery bank is getting low and I'm going to turn on the oven for a bit, or run a coffee maker I just fire up the generator for 20 minutes and then turn it off and go back to battery power for lower consumption. I thought this ProPower system would allow me the same convenience.

Thanks in advance for offering some input on this.

 

[timselectric]

Removing the ground connection between the truck and house is the easiest solution. This should be done at the inlet receptacle, not in the cord. (Unless this cord won't be used for anything else)
This is perfectly safe, because you have a N/G bond in the house panel. And the truck system has its own N/G bond. There can only be one N/G bond. The truck is reporting a ground fault, because it sees both N/G bonds.

 

[AntronX]

What happens if truck's body becomes energized due to inverter isolation fault?

 

[timselectric]

What happens if truck's body becomes energized due to inverter isolation fault?

It shuts down.

clarification: The power, not the engine.

 

[AntronX]

It shuts down.

And you want to trust that vs. passively safe solution via earth ground?

 

[timselectric]

And you want to trust that vs. passively safe solution via earth ground?

This is where the misconception of grounding happens. Earth is not the grounding source. The N/G bond is. A ground rods purpose is to connect the Earth to your grounding system.
Besides that,
In this scenario, the truck still has a connection with the Earth, through its neutral. Which is bonded in the house panel. So, all fault safety is still in place.

 

[AntronX]

This is where the misconception of grounding happens. Earth is not the grounding source. The N/G bond is. A ground rods purpose is to connect the Earth to your grounding system.
Besides that,
In this scenario, the truck still has a connection with the Earth, through its neutral. Which is bonded in the house panel. So, all fault safety is still in place.

Neutral is not bonded to truck's body as that would violate single point NG bonding rule. Possibility of hot line to truck's body fault exists without direct connection to earth potential (via NG bond at the panel, whatever). The ground pin on truck's outlet is there for a reason, and the reason is passive ground fault safety in case active fault detection fails. You are advising the OP to effectively remove that last line of passive safety by cutting the ground connection between truck and the house. There should always be a direct physical connection between equipment metallic body and earth potential for safety to make it impossible for hot to chassis fault to create lethal voltage potential between equipment chassis and ground.

Edit:

What I've learned is that they worked because they were all floating neutral generators whereas the ProPower is a bonded neutral.

I missed that part. If N is bonded to chassis at the truck then you are correct, it is safe to remove the ground since truck's body is physically bonded to earth via house NG bond. I guess the truck is not designed to connect to house wiring. If it was then NG bond at the truck would not exist or be automatically switchable.

 

[timselectric]

Edit:


I missed that part. If N is bonded to chassis at the truck then you are correct, it is safe to remove the ground since truck's body is physically bonded to earth via house NG bond. I guess the truck is not designed to connect to house wiring. If it was then NG bond at the truck would not exist or be automatically switchable.

Now you got it.

It is designed to work with a house sub panel. Through a transfer switch that also switches the neutral. (Truck as a separately derived system)

 

[donrichards]

I know this is an old post. Just thought I should drop this in here. I also have an F150 powerboost and tried this. I can contest that simply disconnecting the truck's ground does not work as a means to bypass the ground fault. It still sees the ground connection to the neutral somehow.

 

[timselectric]

I know this is an old post. Just thought I should drop this in here. I also have an F150 powerboost and tried this. I can contest that simply disconnecting the truck's ground does not work as a means to bypass the ground fault. It still sees the ground connection to the neutral somehow.

It's seeing the neutral/ ground bond in your house.
It looks like a ground fault to the truck.
Unless there's actually a fault.