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Feedback on 24v system please

Your MCB from SCC to Battery should be at least 20AMP, not 50 AMP. the current that will flow from the SCC to battery is almost the same from Solar Panel to SCC.
Agree with ShaneC above for 50 Amps.
The thing that is similar in and out of the SCC is power (watts) and not current (amps). With 4 x 260 watt panels the peak power is 1040 watts at STC (and could even be a bit higher on a cold bright day). Vmp for the 2S arrangement is 61.4 volts so the max power would be 16.9 amps. The SCC adjusts the voltage to get max power (MPPT).

However, the voltage heading out of the SCC is fixed to the voltage of the battery which for a "24volt" LFP battery can range from 29.2 volts (3.65v per cell) to 20 volts (2.5v per cell) at the extremes. So if 1040 watts are coming out of the SCC (it will be less, but 100% efficient for simplicity) it will push a range of 36.6 amps at 29.2 volts or 52 amps! at 20 volts. (Note that this is the same "20 volts low cutoff" in the first line of John Frum's information-packed post #11 above)

An SCC with max 40 amps is fine because a) you are unlikely to hit conditions of 52 amps IRL and b) the SCC will just peak out at 40 amps and won't hurt anything, and c) a SCC with higher amps is more expensive. However, it is very possible that your system will occasionally hit the 40 amp output limit so a 50 Amp minimum fuse is reasonable.

When sizing fuses and breakers, we can make just 2 main mistakes: 1) If the fuse rating is too big, a too-small wire could be the weak point of the circuit when the amps are high and and burn (which is dangerous) or 2) If the fuse is too small, it can blow when it did not need to (which is a nuisance). From this perspective, there is often a rather large rage of "acceptable fuse/breaker values. The 20 amp breaker on the input side of the SCC is getting close to nuisance (as 17 amps is likely) so bumping up to 25 or 30 amps is all fine because the wires can handle it as ShaneC noted.

then from battery to inverter, it should be at least 90 or 100 amp. if you calculate the max current that will flow from battery to inverter it is only 83.33 max.

Using the same principles John Frum's posts for the inverter amperage are valuable because while 83.33 amps is the right math for 2000 watts by 24 volts, each of the adjustments he notes are trying to avoid possible nuisance situations. If you attach 2 heat guns to the inverter and draw 2000 watts, it will do what it has to provide 2000 AC watts, but because it is not efficient (0.85 std or 0.92 per ShaneC) and the battery may be low (20 volts in the extreme) and the inverter is actually capable of surging to 3000 watts, John's calculation will help avoid ever having a nuisance pop of the breaker.
 
what busbar do I need? 100A or 150A?
Bus bars get fun... A lot of the cheaper ones will claim 150A but that's across the whole strip. Each individual connection might max at 63a or lower for the little M4 or M6 screws. You want one with atleast an M8 screw for both your battery and inverter connections. It's really hard to find legit specs for bus bars unless you're willing to spend big bucks on the high brands
 
Bus bars get fun... A lot of the cheaper ones will claim 150A but that's across the whole strip. Each individual connection might max at 63a or lower for the little M4 or M6 screws. You want one with atleast an M8 screw for both your battery and inverter connections. It's really hard to find legit specs for bus bars unless you're willing to spend big bucks on the high brands
how about this?
 
Since you have only 3 items(inverter, battery and solar charge controller) in the core you don't need busbars.

Connect both the battery and the solar charge controller to the inverter studs.
The battery circuit gets a 150 amp class-t fuse as close to the battery midi or mega fuse in an inline carrier.
No disconnect switches are required in the core because the inverter has an on/off button and the solar charge controller has a double pole disconnect between the SCC and the pv panels.
 
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Since you have only 3 items(inverter, battery and solar charge controller) in the core you don't need busbars.

Connect both the battery and the solar charge controller to the inverter studs.
The battery circuit gets a 150 amp class-t fuse as close to the battery midi or mega fuse in an inline carrier.
No disconnect switches are required in the core because the inverter has an on/off button and the solar charge controller has a double pole disconnect between the SCC and the pv panels.
I may also add a 24 V to 12 V converter. So that would add one more item, probably best to use a bus bar?
 
My first setup was a small 12V battery and a PWM controller. Shortly after I moved to 24V and a slightly larger battery. Once you get bit, It is kinda hard not to wanna upgrade. I understand some are purpose built, but not always. You don't have to, but you can.
 
My first setup was a small 12V battery and a PWM controller. Shortly after I moved to 24V and a slightly larger battery. Once you get bit, It is kinda hard not to wanna upgrade. I understand some are purpose built, but not always. You don't have to, but you can.
I only have 3 arrays.. ok 4 arrays... I can stop any time I want to...
 
I may also add a 24 V to 12 V converter. So that would add one more item, probably best to use a bus bar?
Yes in that case you should use both positive and negative busbars.
The positive busbar should incorporate fuses.
This is an example of a good fused busbar
This is an example of a good un-fused busbar
 
Yes in that case you should use both positive and negative busbars.
The positive busbar should incorporate fuses.
This is an example of a good fused busbar
This is an example of a good un-fused busbar
How do I figure out the Amp size for the busbar?
 
One thing to consider is possible growth in the future. If you decide to add batteries in parallel via bus bar in the future then opting for 1/0 wire would be a consideration.

When doing the build consider making the fuses and or breakers rated less than the wiring. Better to have a fuse or breaker trip and keep cooler wires.
 
How do I figure out the Amp size for the busbar?
Both of the busbars I linked will work for your application.
Busbars are usually rated for continuous amperage.
Although the cheap ones lie, sometimes by a huge margin.

Busbars are sized for the either the max draw or the max charge current of the system, whichever is larger.
In your case the draw will dwarf the charge current.
Your inverter can pull ~120 amps.
We don't know what size your dc2dc converter is so lets say it pulls ~20 amps@20 volts.
Given the above your busbar should be designed for 140 amps continuous minimum.
They make busbars rated for 150 amps but most of them are grossly exaggerating or shit.
Watch out for the amazon or aliX specials that are made of brass.

Is this a mobile application?
 
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I think everyone should stress test their system at max load from full battery to dead empty.
Use an IR thermometer on check every joint.
If nothing gets hot you have a good system.
If you find some hot joints then remedial action is very likely required.
 
140 continuous amps / .8 fuse headroom = 175 fuse amps.
That means a 200 amp class t fuse for the battery circuit.
BTW 200 amps is the largest fuse you can put on 2 awg pure copper wire with 90C insulation by ABYC standards.
The inverter circuit gets a 150 amp MRBF fuse.
The converter circuit gets a 30 amp fuse(the smallest MRBF fuse) on 10 awg wire.
The solar charge controller circuit gets a 50 amp MRBF fuse on 8 awg wire.

And Bo's yer uncle.
 
If I change the inverter to a 1200 W/24 V inverter, would 100 amp fuse be appropriate?
then 2awg wire between inverter and battery or 4awg?
 
If I change the inverter to a 1200 W/24 V inverter, would 100 amp fuse be appropriate?
then 2awg wire between inverter and battery or 4awg?
I'd be wary of downsizing your inverter, you're just bringing forward the point in time when you'll inevitably want to upgrade it to add more devices to it. I went 2kw and already wish I'd gone for 3kw, not for any particular reason but I know someday I'll want to drive more with it.
 
Hi, I’m looking to design a small system with 4 panels, 260w each, using 24v system. Can. You please look to see if any improvements/ suggestions? Any ideas on favorite SCC, Battery, inverters as well. What gauge wires should I be using? What am I missing? Thank you!

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Hi everyone!
Decided to downsize a bit... going to use only TWO panels, 2S configuration. and a 20A SCC. Battery and Inverter stay the same. Do I change my fuse sizes? (50 A ?) I think the 150A stays the same right? Do you recommend a switch between the battery and the SCC? Thank you
 
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