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Fluke 113

hwy17

Anti-Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 11, 2022
Messages
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Location
Santa Cruz, California
Just want to share my excitement that I've picked my new toy.

I ran into a case recently where I doubted the accuracy of my Fluke 101 down to the .01VDC granularity so I finally had justification to get a new multimeter.

Of course the clamp meters are tempting, but I didn't want to spend $450 on getting every feature, and I wanted accurate volts most of all.

So I found the Fluke 113, it's got one setting for AC/DC VRMS and continuity all in one! No more twisting the dial for me, nearly just one setting for everything that I'm normally doing. And, LoZ low impedance which will drain AC phantom voltage induced by other wires, so no more wondering if that errant 70v measurement is real or not.

Ever since I was a kid learning with a meter I was wondering why's this thing gotta have so many settings when we all really just use like 2. And now I'm right, just 2 settings!

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Ever since I was a kid learning with a meter I was wondering why's this thing gotta have so many settings when we all really just use like 2. And now I'm right, just 2 settings!
(y).... but... I like lots of buttons and options and selections and modes :(
 
Hmmm, so how do you check current?

And it's going to put the fuse manufacturers out of business - the number of times I forgot that the +ve lead was plugged into its "Amp" socket when I next tried to measure a voltage :unsure:⚡
 
Hmmm, so how do you check current?

And it's going to put the fuse manufacturers out of business - the number of times I forgot that the +ve lead was plugged into its "Amp" socket when I next tried to measure a voltage :unsure:⚡
The 87-V beeps at you if you select voltage with the leads plugged into the amps input, but that's not a $100-class DVM either.
 
It is a shunt. My fluke has 10A scale, 11A fuse.

Inrush can blow the fuse. So short out with a banana cable while completing the circuit, then after inrush is over, pull the cable to leave meter in the circuit. (Need more than just test leads because those aren't stackable.)

For DC, this avoids the drift of hall effect sensors.

External shunt and external clamp can also be used with DMM.
 
What do you guys measure this way? Wouldn't the pointy probes have high resistance connections to the measurement points?
 
About 0.5 ohms.
For resistance measurements you can press them onto a single node and "zero" it. Afterwards, might see small positive or negative reading.
Fancier meters have 4-wire capability. Usually not handheld.

When I wanted to measure fuses, the meter I used a power supply to pass whole amps, measured voltage.

For current, the added resistance might affect some circuits. Of course, current measurement is usually not done with probe tip, rather banana or other affixed leads.
 
Hmmm, so how do you check current?

And it's going to put the fuse manufacturers out of business - the number of times I forgot that the +ve lead was plugged into its "Amp" socket when I next tried to measure a voltage :unsure:⚡

It doesn't.

 
It doesn't.


Hmm... then surely it's not a multimeter :unsure:... it should be called a semimeter, demimeter or mezzometer :ROFLMAO:
 
What do you guys measure this way?
Yes.. girly small electronics stuff... though I did put my Fluke in series with a 12V car bulb to work out what rate it was discharging a LiFePO4 cell when doing my annual (*) 'manual' balance.

I say "annual" even though I've only done it once, as I think I will do that again this summer - it seemed a nice way to spend a sunny summer afternoon :cool:
 
I just bought a Fluke Multi meter 77 IV, for $340, so I could measure parasitic current draw in my vehicle.


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I am disappointed by the fact that the test lead wires have stiff PVC type insulation, as opposed to flexible silicone type insulation like my cheap meters. The wires are constantly tangling due to retained memory in the insulation when the leads are coiled for storage in the carry case.:mad:
 
I just bought a Fluke Multi meter 77 IV, for $340, so I could measure parasitic current draw in my vehicle.


View attachment 200464



I am disappointed by the fact that the test lead wires have stiff PVC type insulation, as opposed to flexible silicone type insulation like my cheap meters. The wires are constantly tangling due to retained memory in the insulation when the leads are coiled for storage in the carry case.:mad:
Yeah, decent leads are hard to find.
 
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