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Problems after switching from AGM to lifepo4 - long post

astrnmrtom

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Joined
Nov 21, 2022
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I have a real head scratcher starting back in Sept when I changed out my 4 failing 6v agms for 4, 100ah 12v lifepo4 batteries.

My system:

900 watts of solar - 3 pairs of 150 watt panels, each pair wired in series, then connected in parallel, feeding an epever Tracer 4210an, mppt charger with an MT-50 remote.
Go Power IC3000 psw inverter/charger with remote panel.
Renogy battery monitor with shunt, and a drok wireless monitor with hall effect sensor.
4, 100ah self heating Amperetime lifepo4 batteries wired in parallel.

The problem:

Starting in the am and continuing throughout the day, the inverter will randomly shut down, as if someone pushed the off switch. No warning, no errors, it just goes off. It can be immediately restarted and will run fine for a while before going off again. Batteries in the am are at 70% capacity according to both meters. I've even had a shutdown with batteries @97%. The bizarre thing is, this NEVER happens at night. It runs all night long without a hiccup, even when running more things, and after going to bed where the only appreciable load is the refer.

Loads: Main daytime load is a Fisher and Paykell residential refrigerator. Average draw from the batteries around 16amps. Occasional load is the water pump which draws about 8amps.

The history: After a bunch of troubleshooting and checking and cleaning every connection, I suspected the inverter. It important to note that when this started, I was using a different inverter with separate charger. I suspected a bad internal connection in the inverter because failures seemed to be happening as we drove down the road. Seemed to happen more on bumpy roads so I replaced that inverter with the ic3000. Tried the wiggle test on all cables and connections to no effect.

The batteries are wired correctly with new equal length cables, with the main positive and negative at opposite ends of the pack. All batteries were installed per instructions. Along with the batteries I purchased a dedicated lifepo4 charger from Amperetime. This was done for use with my small portable generator because the original, and new inverter/chargers draw too many amps for the small generator. As per the instructions, I charged each individual battery with the dedicated charger before connecting in series so they were all balanced. I've sat by the remotes to see if I could catch any anomaly prior to shutdown. I haven't been able to catch it in the act of shutting off, but I have looked at all the meters within a second or two of the shutdown and everything reads normal. Checking the inverter readout after restarting everything is normal, no errors codes. Even checked the inverter temperature readouts and they are in range. Except for the initial charge, all charging has been done with built in chargers while plugged into campground power. Batteries seem to accept the charge just fine. It's only when we unplug, that the solar takes over charging.

Although never say never. I cannot believe all four batteries are bad because they work fine all night long. I can even turn on my coffeepot which will draw 90 amps @12v and they handle it just fine.

Again, this only happens during the day. It may happen when a small load switches on because every once in a while when the water pump first cycles, the inverter drops out, but not every time. Because of this, I wonder if the other times it isn't when the refrigerator compressor starts up, but again not every time because I can tell when it's running by looking at the battery monitor.

Because it only happens when the sun is shining, I'm wondering if some how it's related to the solar charger. Is there some very fast transient spike that has the battery bms shut off? I never see any odd voltages on any of the meters. I've even had my wife cycle the water pump and watched the meters. Volts and amps change as expected with neither out of the ordinary. I've confirmed all the charger and inverter settings a million times.

(Yesterday afternoon) Just had another shutdown and this time I was watching the battery meter when it happened. Everything went dead, even the 12v side, which came back to life 2 or 3 seconds later. So, that tells me the bms didn't like something, and shut the batteries down. Only thing I can imagine is a transient spike in voltage too fast for the meters to register before the bms shuts off the power. Since this only happens during the day, I suspect something is going on with the solar controller. This may have been happening for an undetermined time going back prior to switching to lifepo4, except back then, lead acid batteries don't have a bms and an occasional spike in DC voltage would have no effect. It's also odd that with 4 batteries in parallel that the whole system could shut down over a transient voltage anomaly unless it becomes a cascading shutdown.

Solar controller has three factory settings, flooded, sealed, and gel, with a fourth user setting. In the user setting I can set all the recommended levels. I initially used the user setting, but have tried the others with the same results.

So, for the last hour of sun yesterday, I shut off my solar to see if I get another failure. Next step will be to disconnect a pair of panels because I am over panelled even though I've never seen the max our of my controller.

Sun is down now and no more failures since disconnecting the panels. Hummm.

More history: Between Sept and now, most failures were happening while going down the road from campground to campground. These were campsites with utilities. We've always run off the inverter going down the road. That's why I originally thought it was vibration induced. This is only the second time boondocking. Couldn't troubleshoot while driving down the road. We'll be boondocking for the next two weeks so this is the first time I've really been able to closely watch the system. All connections have been checked and checked again. Everything is clean and tight. Happens when sitting still.

Latest step. Let the system run off the inverter from an hour before sunset last night, till 9am this morning with the panels disconnected. Ran fine the whole time. At 9:am I started the generator and the batteries accepted a charge. I shut the generator off @70% soc, climbed up on the roof and unplugged a pair of panels. The remaining panels are only slightly over the controller rating - 600 watts. Reconnected the system. It charged for an hour at 21amps before it failed again. Exact same symptoms.

Batteries are in an open compartment on the shaded side of the motorhome with ambient temps in the upper 60s.

I've disconnected my panels again, and am completing the charge with the generator. Batteries seem to be accepting the charge just fine.

It appears there's something going on when charging by solar that the battery bms doesn't like. I'm stumped.
 
Maybe you can share a photo of your battery and inverter wiring?
Hard to easily do because both the batteries and inverter have replaced the original factory parts and are in separate compartments. Main inverter cables are factory original, they go through the factory fuse and on to the batteries. I've connected all four batteries with new matched cables because I had reused the existing cables, two of which were a couple inches longer than the rest and we're standard auto parts store cables. New ones are heavier, are much better quality, and are of equal length.

There are no relays or anything else between the inverter and batteries except the fuse.
 
What happens is you disconnect one battery from the set up?
I tried disconnecting one and the same thing happened. My next step will be trying each battery, one at a time, to see if one acts differently. That will be tomorrow's troubleshooting step.
 
I put my money on the solar charge converter after being over paneled. It could be that it is letting panel voltage slip through and the inverter is seeing over voltage.
 
That's my conclusion too, except I think it's the battery bms that's disconnecting because the one time it happened while I was watching, all the meters went dead and the solar controller meter zeroed out with a big X over the battery icon. 2-3 seconds later they all came back online showing normal numbers.

After topping off the batteries with the generator, and leaving the solar disconnected, the system worked fine all day. Not a single shutdown.

When I added the two new panels last July I considered getting a bigger controller but read stories of others over paneling their controllers without issues. While I've never seen max output from my controller, I guess that doesn't mean the input side wasn't overstressed. Could be transient output voltage spikes or noise that the battery meters can't register because of a slow sampling rate, but the bms sees the noise as dangerous and shuts off the power. Because it ran fine for an hour in the morning before the first shut down, it could be it gets wonky after heating up.

Only thing left is trying individual batteries. Only drawback is that will unbalance the four batteries. To rebalance I'd need to charge them all individually using the dedicated charger and generator. Not a deal breaker.

Since I know I'm over paneled, might be time to upgrade the controller. A matched controller certainly isn't a bad move.
 
Sounds like the BMS' inside the batteries are kicking off because of a High Volt Disconnect which occurs when a cell goes past the trigger point. Some Ampertimes have SmartBMS' with an app that lets you monitor & configure the BMS, I dunno if all of them do but I think they do. So watch the BMS' via the APP to see if a battery cell is reaching over voltage point.

The Solar Controller is likely not properly configured for your battery packs.
Charge Profile suggested:
Absorb: 13.8V for 45 minutes (3.45vpc) (some call this boost)
Equalize: OFF
Float 13.7V (3.425vpc)
MIn Volts: 10.6V (2.650vpc) <- also is the Inverter Low Volt Cutoff.
Max Volts: 14.3V (3.575vpc) <- also Inverter/Charger cutoff voltage if you charge with it (shore pwr)
Rebulk Voltage: 12.8V (3.200vpc)
End Amps/Tailcurrent: 5.0A
 
Steve:

Thanks. I'll try your settings. I do not have the smart battery model. I suspect an overvolt event too since I can load the system without an issue. Batteries react as expected under load.

I originally set up the parameters listed in ampertime's owners manual. The ones I could match in my controller anyway. When that didn't work, I tried other suggested settings listed in videos, blogs, and other forums all usually within a few tenths of a volt from ampertime's. Never used any suggested settings above ampertime's settings. All produce the same results. Even tried the controller's built in settings for sealed (AGM) which if anything, should work but undercharge the batteries.

Just programmed your suggested settings and turned the system back on. I'll update if it works or not. Yesterday first failure took about an hour. Starting with batteries at 90%.

I consider myself pretty tech savvy but what's driving me nuts is every manufacturer uses different terminology for settings. I feel like I need to learn two or three different languages to translate between them just to set up my system.

Here's ampertime's numbers and settings names listed in the owners manual that ca!e with the batteries:

Charge/Bulk/Boost Voltage 14.4v / 14.6v
Absorption Voltage. 14.4v / 14.6v
Over Voltage Disconnect. 15v
Over Voltage Reconnect. 14.2
Tail Current. 2A

epever 4210an / MT 50 Controller settings choices under battery type "User"

Amp hours - I set to 400
Temp coeff - I set to 0
Rated voltage - I set to 12v
Over Voltage Disconnect - 16v default (get parameter error if I try to change this value)
Charge limit 15v default (another parameter error if I try to change)
Over Volt Reconnect - 15v
Equalize Charge - I set to 14v (no off setting)
Boost Charge - I set to 13.8v
Float Charge - I set to 13.6v
Boost Reconnect - 13.2v
Low Voltage Reconnect -12.6v
Under Volt Reconnect - 12.2v
Under Volt Warning - 12v
Low Voltage Disconnect - 10.6v
Equalize Time - I set to 0min
Boost time - I set to 15min


We'll, just ran my system at the above settings and it shut down after an hour and a half. Same symptoms. It not just the inverter that goes, 12v side drops off for a second, then returns.
 
I'm leaning towards a bad BMS but i wonder what fuse type you have between the batteries and inverter? ANL? Mega? Class t? Reason i ask is that Thermal fuses can throttle current which restricts the inverter function. Just a thought on a baffling issue.
 
Fuse is an anl.

So, one option is to separate the batteries and try them one by one. Can't imagine all four have a bad bms. Other thing is, if the bms is bad, I'd expect it to drop out when charging via the generator. The difference there is it's bypassing the inverter so if it's dropping out and reconnecting, it might not be noticable except I'd expect to see the meter show zero amps going in when that happens. Admittedly I haven't sat there and watched the meter for an hour. This has been a real fun one.
 
12/19/22 Update:

Problem solved , but before the reveal the solution, I'll offer some more details and troubleshooting I tried since first posting.

These are factory sealed batteries, each with their own internal bms, and no Bluetooth so what's happening internally is impossible to know. A couple times I have disconnected the batteries and charged them individually with Ampertime's own 40 amp charger, let them rest, tested individual voltage, then reconnected them together and again let them rest to balance as a set. All measured almost exactly the same voltage before connecting, to within a few 100s of a volt.

I do not own a true rms volt meter so the sample rate of the meter was too low to measure some of the transient voltage drops. I used my led lighting as a sort of visual guage of battery behavior, and when the anomaly happened, the lights would flicker and occasionally go dark for a fraction of a second, and my meter would sometimes show a reading of <10v before returning to normal. Sometimes voltage would recover in time to cycle the inverter, or trigger an Under Voltage Protection alarm. It often would repeat several times in a row, and the transient drop would last long enough to drop the inverter off lime without an error. I could always restart the inverter. Usually the issue would repeat but not always.

This happened mostly when the solar input was close to the load + a few amps. If the solar was putting in a larger charge where the load wouldn't go negative, the system ran fine. It's like the bms couldn't handle a transition from charge to load. At these times I could occasionally trigger a failure by running the water pump which could add enough amperage to transition from a small charge to a 6-10 amp load. I suspect that some of the randomness of this issue was because my residential refrigerator would kick on at certain times when the batteries were most sensitive to voltage swings. It did happen more often in the morning when charge amps were small, and the compressor start would pull the small charge negative. In the am, the battery monitor showed the batteries at about 70-80% soc so they weren't nearly depleted. I was sure both battery monitors were calibrated. My refrigerator draws about 12-16amps while running. It's an inverter/DC variable speed compressor that's quite efficient so I doubt it's spanking the batteries with a huge inrush surge when it starts.

This issue manifests in other charge situations too. If using a generator/inverter charger, or even the Ampertime's own 40 amp charger, the system would be fine until I either shut down the generator, or flipped the off switch on their charger. Usually those would trigger a voltage drop that would take the inverter off line without an error. 12v lights would flash off then back on indicating the bms was killing power for a fraction of a second. Fyi: I could program the inverter low voltage Disconnect to as low as 9v, which I did after seeing 10v on my meter. This told me the input voltage was dropping below 9v. At no time was a load over 20 amps on the batteries at these times. Neither 400ah of batteries, nor a 3000 watt inverter were under stress.

The final straw was late one one evening last week. Everything had worked fine that day, and before going to bed I decided to top off the batteries so we'd go to bed with them at or near 100%. When I shut down the generator, my whole rig went dark. Both 110v and 12v. No flicker, no warning, the battery voltage went to zero and didn't recover. I started my small generator, plugged in the dedicated lithium charger to try to wake the batteries, which they appeared to do, until I turned the charger off, and everything went dark again. I ended up disconnecting the batteries and leaving them for a couple hours after which I hooked them back up and all was well. The system ran fine the rest of the night.

Note: If I didn't try to charge the batteries and just let them "run under load," they work great. In the evening, I could fire up my coffeepot which draws 95amps @12v and they handled it fine. Same with charging them. If I charged them without any load, they'd charge fine.

Also note: All this continued to happen after upgrading my inverter/charger, solar controller and replacing most cables. Oh yeah, I also tried disconnecting a couple pairs of panels to make sure over paneling wasn't causing surges with the old solar controller. My new controller is a Victron 150/60 (a very impressive controller by the way). I tried a plethora of different charger settings. It made no difference.

One day, I separated the batteries and tried them one by one, and thay all behaved the same way. No single battery was better or worse than the others. They all gave me trouble in the same way.

After that complete shutdown, I made an appointment with a place nearby that sells and installs systems - Solar Bill in Quartzsite. After a long talk with a couple of their techs I was told they'd never encountered anything like my issue. Fortunately they could do something I couldn't, and that's try a different battery. They had a old, used, lithium they could hook up in the place of my batteries which allowed me to try to see if the batteries were the problem. But first, I asked that they inspect my system since it's self installed to make sure my "handyman" install was done right. I got a "good work" comment from the tech after walking him through my system. Phew!

With their old, used lithium, I tried duplicating the problem and regardless of what I did, the system acted completely normal. I could not trigger a failure. Didn't even get a single flicker in my lights.

Sooooo the solution to my strange problems was replacing the four 100ah Ampertime batteries with four Lion Energy UT1300, 105ah batteries. They aren't a Ampertime dealer so any warranty claims will be between me and Ampertime. I did order them directly from Ampertime.

As for Solar Bill, they were awesome. The owner was great, as we're all the techs and people in the office I dealt with. The owner even suggested I spend a day or two on site, to give the new batteries a good testing. I spent a day and a half there without a single glitch, and have returned to boondocking, again, without even a single blink in my system. My whole system works exactly as it should. It charges perfectly, handles charging and discharging transparently, and It doesn't matter how I charge them or when, they work flawlessly.

Without doing a forensic autopsy with a electrical engineer on my Ampertimes, I may never know why they acted that way. There was a lot of "I wonder ifs" with the techs, but who knows. We all seem to think it's a bms problem. It is very strange that four separate batteries had issues, and the same issues at that. I would think if it was a design issue, it would be a common problem and seen in reviews and forums. My issue seems unique. Lucky me.
 
It's good to hear the outcome , so many people just come on a forum, get an answer then bugger off, it really helps to know what the outcome was, so thank you :cool:(y)
 
I thought it was important to share the results. It's how we all learn. I've seen too many posts where the reader is curious as to the outcome, but the op never returns. Since forums are all about sharing knowledge, it's important to follow through.

Re: the video above. That's very interesting and closely mimics my issues. It's like the bms is sensing something wrong when the current changes from charge to load. In my case, if I disconnected the batteries from any load, they charged fine, and it was the same if I disconnected any charger and loaded the batteries. If no charger was connected, I could draw 100amps with no issues.

The two most consistent times I had problems was in the morning when the solar was putting in a small charge and a slightly larger load kicked on such as my refrigerator compressor which then drew the current negative. And then again when shutting off a charger while a load was running like in the video.

It's that positive to negative transition that triggered the bms to kill the power.
 
Because it only happens when the sun is shining, I'm wondering if some how it's related to the solar charger. Is there some very fast transient spike that has the battery bms shut off?
Epever SCCs have a bug like this; spikes and shuts down, resets automagically, and repeats.

I found I could mitigate by adjusting the HVD too high-ish and setting the max charge progressively lower by 0.1VDC until it straightened out- most of the time.

Perhaps your unit has a related software source and therefore sustains the bug?
 
I replaced the Epever 4210an with a Victron/150/60 and it still had the same issues. I read about possible spikes from the controller and played with lower charge voltages without success. That sentence referred only to the problems I was experiencing during the day.

It wasn't just on solar that the batteries did weird things. I didn't get random shutdowns when charging from either the dedicated Ampertime 40amp charger, or from the 100amp charger in the inverter, but I suspect those chargers could mask a battery cutoff because they also acted as converters continuing to supply 12+v even if the bms did it's weird thing. The batteries would go wonky when either of those chargers were shut off including one evening where the whole coach went dark when I shut off the generator. I grabbed my meter and a flashlight and the batteries were dead. The bms had disconnected them. At that time the load on the four batteries was <20amps@12v.

After letting the bms recover, I reconnected the load and they were fine the rest of the night, but there was no charging being done.

I have a short video I sent to Ampertime. Fortunately I was able to capture the voltage fluctuation as it happened. The starting voltage shows a full battery, but what is not seen is the fact my solar is charging, and I had my wife start the inverter. Only load would have been under 20amps@12v. Voltage drops to the expected voltage under a load, then plunges to 8v, recovers, plunges again. These drops send the inverter into Low Voltage Protection shutdown and the battery voltage finishes back at no load value. I suspect if I had a true rms meter, the voltage would have been shown going even lower or shutting off for a fraction of a second.

All my problems vanished when I replaced the batteries.
 
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