I started upgrading my hardware, and switched over to Growatt recently.
I started with 2 x SPF 3000TL LVM048-P from Signature Solar. At first I put them in Single Phase Parallel, for 6000 watts at 120v and they worked great. I was extremly happy with Signature Solar's email & phone support. They were able to help me and were very nice and experienced.
Although happy with my setup, in the summer I often have extra power with a full battery, and I"m limited to 1.8 kw charging my EV, i switched the config to split phase as a test. The test went perfect, and I was really happy with the results, but I knew I'd need more capacity, as 3000 watt's on each load was just too low, especially with inductive loads, like Air Conditioners, so I purchased two more.
My setup is a little weird. I moved all the 120v circuits from the grid panel, into a Critical loads panel, that's powered by the growatts. I also have a second sub-panel with circuit's I've added. All 120v. 4 x 20amp for the kitchen, 3 x 120v for mini splits (1 ton units, 12000 BTU's they work great), and 120v hot water heating element.
They came in fast like normal and I installed them yesterday, putting two on phase 1 and two on phase 2. This is when I noticed flickering lights. Not all, but most of my LED lights were flickering, sometimes rapidly like a constant pulse. At other times they would flicker almost as if a large inductive load was starting, but there was none.
I read online, to make sure you don't have any ground loops, and I did. One circuit on my house was making contact with ground. Luckily I don't really need it, so I disconnected it thought I solved my problem, but it did not..
I then read in the manual that the Inverters had to have equal cable gauge and length, which I did. It also mentioned attaching all the cables together. I have them all attached to a buss-bar, but I went ahead and put all 4 inverters on the same lug of the bus-bar as a test, this did not work either. All the circuits I have are 120v, so I put both hot legs of the 10-3 wire into the same side of the breaker, this did not resolve the problem either trying both legs one at a time.. Really annoying pulse or constant flicker.
I then saw something about parallel conductors possibly causing issues, It didn't specifically mention sub-panels, and this issue was not present when in utility bypass mode, so I didn't think it would work but I was despite, so I gave it a try. As a test i wired in a 20 amp 120v breaker from the second sub-panel feeding the first, no longer using the direct connection from the Growatts. Much to my shock that worked. No more pulsing, and almost no flickering. only when an AC's compressor starts, which happened before.
Tomorrow, I plan to wire in the 30 amp dual pole breaker and get the subpanel, or should I say sub-sub-panel back to full operation. I'll also have to up the feeder wire to the sub-sub-panel to a larger circuit now that it's powering the additional load.
My questions are. What was the underlying issue causing the pulsing? and Why did this work? This seems to be a fairly common issue with off grid inverters, and it makes no sense to me
I started with 2 x SPF 3000TL LVM048-P from Signature Solar. At first I put them in Single Phase Parallel, for 6000 watts at 120v and they worked great. I was extremly happy with Signature Solar's email & phone support. They were able to help me and were very nice and experienced.
Although happy with my setup, in the summer I often have extra power with a full battery, and I"m limited to 1.8 kw charging my EV, i switched the config to split phase as a test. The test went perfect, and I was really happy with the results, but I knew I'd need more capacity, as 3000 watt's on each load was just too low, especially with inductive loads, like Air Conditioners, so I purchased two more.
My setup is a little weird. I moved all the 120v circuits from the grid panel, into a Critical loads panel, that's powered by the growatts. I also have a second sub-panel with circuit's I've added. All 120v. 4 x 20amp for the kitchen, 3 x 120v for mini splits (1 ton units, 12000 BTU's they work great), and 120v hot water heating element.
They came in fast like normal and I installed them yesterday, putting two on phase 1 and two on phase 2. This is when I noticed flickering lights. Not all, but most of my LED lights were flickering, sometimes rapidly like a constant pulse. At other times they would flicker almost as if a large inductive load was starting, but there was none.
I read online, to make sure you don't have any ground loops, and I did. One circuit on my house was making contact with ground. Luckily I don't really need it, so I disconnected it thought I solved my problem, but it did not..
I then read in the manual that the Inverters had to have equal cable gauge and length, which I did. It also mentioned attaching all the cables together. I have them all attached to a buss-bar, but I went ahead and put all 4 inverters on the same lug of the bus-bar as a test, this did not work either. All the circuits I have are 120v, so I put both hot legs of the 10-3 wire into the same side of the breaker, this did not resolve the problem either trying both legs one at a time.. Really annoying pulse or constant flicker.
I then saw something about parallel conductors possibly causing issues, It didn't specifically mention sub-panels, and this issue was not present when in utility bypass mode, so I didn't think it would work but I was despite, so I gave it a try. As a test i wired in a 20 amp 120v breaker from the second sub-panel feeding the first, no longer using the direct connection from the Growatts. Much to my shock that worked. No more pulsing, and almost no flickering. only when an AC's compressor starts, which happened before.
Tomorrow, I plan to wire in the 30 amp dual pole breaker and get the subpanel, or should I say sub-sub-panel back to full operation. I'll also have to up the feeder wire to the sub-sub-panel to a larger circuit now that it's powering the additional load.
My questions are. What was the underlying issue causing the pulsing? and Why did this work? This seems to be a fairly common issue with off grid inverters, and it makes no sense to me