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Heat Pump Water Heaters Vs Gas and Electric

Missouri wind and solar has DC elements with built in thermostats. Replace your lower thermostat with it.
I am actually going to spend a couple days with MO Wind & Solar later this summer!

But I think I want to try as much as possible to keep the system streamlined and not have extra panels dedicated to a solar hvac, solar water heater or dc circuits. Im not really smart so I nee to keep it simple. KISS
 
How efficient are heat pump powered water heaters when compared with gas-fired and electric resistance water heaters. I have read some wild claims on the internet. This Mulgrave based installer offered to replace my existing gas water heater and installer heater pump based water heating unit having energy efficiency:
If your heat pump water tank is drawing heat from inside the home and you are heating the home does this not end up costing you more than direct fired heating?

In the summer I think a heat pump water tank might save you energy by using heat in your home you may normally have had to use an AC system to remove.
 
I installed a 120v Rheem 65 gal 3 days ago. I have it programmed to heat to 135 during the day when solar available and mixing valve takes it down to 120*. So far, 120V is keep my family of 4 plenty of hot water. I still have my tankless to turn on if I need.

Uses very little power --- 300-350 watts when on. A couple Kw per day
I thought would see more condensate from it- I have to hard plumb it to a drain but i'm in no hurry as the small amount evaporates back into the air by the next day.
 
If your heat pump water tank is drawing heat from inside the home and you are heating the home does this not end up costing you more than direct fired heating?

In the summer I think a heat pump water tank might save you energy by using heat in your home you may normally have had to use an AC system to remove.
In the winter, the efficiency essentially becomes the same as your primary heating source.
Mine is mostly underground so I'm pulling some heat from the surrounding earth. Parking my vehicle in garage near it also supplies quite a bit of heat. I'd estimate a full tank of water or more in terms of BTU retained in my full size truck
 
I installed a 120v Rheem 65 gal 3 days ago. I have it programmed to heat to 135 during the day when solar available and mixing valve takes it down to 120*. So far, 120V is keep my family of 4 plenty of hot water. I still have my tankless to turn on if I need.

Uses very little power --- 300-350 watts when on. A couple Kw per day
I thought would see more condensate from it- I have to hard plumb it to a drain but i'm in no hurry as the small amount evaporates back into the air by the next day.
Why didnt I think about this.... jsut program the HPHW! DOH
 
If your heat pump water tank is drawing heat from inside the home and you are heating the home does this not end up costing you more than direct fired heating?

In the summer I think a heat pump water tank might save you energy by using heat in your home you may normally have had to use an AC system to remove.

They make a duct kit for it. You can actually have it pulling hot air from your attic in summer, and move duct pipe to the outlet side in winter putting its cooler output out of the heated space.
 
If your heat pump water tank is drawing heat from inside the home and you are heating the home does this not end up costing you more than direct fired heating?

Hybrid heat pump units give you a choice. Also, since I heat my house mostly with heat pumps powered by solar power except in December/January, the heat pump is still most efficient.
In the summer I think a heat pump water tank might save you energy by using heat in your home you may normally have had to use an AC system to remove.
Not only that it will remove humidity.
 
I assume a dump load would lose power everyday when the sun goes down.

I have mine running 24/7, it is always connected and powered up. There is no need to cut power to it, you can turn it on/off remotely using the app on a smartphone or just program it to run certain hours of the day.

When your unit loses power, it comes back online and retains settings without you physically doing anything?
I never tried but considering the settings are thru the app and cloud, it should retain the settings. I'll check later today by unplugging it but I'll wager it will retain the wi fi connection and settings.
 
I have mine running 24/7, it is always connected and powered up. There is no need to cut power to it, you can turn it on/off remotely using the app on a smartphone or just program it to run certain hours of the day.


I never tried but considering the settings are thru the app and cloud, it should retain the settings. I'll check later today by unplugging it but I'll wager it will retain the wi fi connection and settings.
Perhaps we have a different idea of 'Dump Load" In my mind this mean a circuit that only gets power when the battery bank is charged to a certain level (90%), PV is meeting all current loads and there is extra power that can be 'dumped' into separate non-critical load. In my mind this also happens without any intervention or action on my part... the system jsut does the work.

There is no right or wrong jsut a difference in perspective. I appreciate you input.
 
Perhaps we have a different idea of 'Dump Load" In my mind this mean a circuit that only gets power when the battery bank is charged to a certain level (90%), PV is meeting all current loads and there is extra power that can be 'dumped' into separate non-critical load. In my mind this also happens without any intervention or action on my part... the system jsut does the work.

There is no right or wrong jsut a difference in perspective. I appreciate you input.
I can turn all of my dump loads on/off with my phone and various apps. I can also set timing using those apps, for example a Shelly smart plug turns off at sunset.

I have no need to automate dump loads. I consider a dump load any load that can be used to consume excess PV. For example, middle of winter, sun is shining and my battery is maybe 50% SOC. I will turn on a dump load (radiant resistance heater for example) at that 50% SOC if I forecast the SOC will hit 100% or close to it by the end of the day. This how you maximize yield and ROI. Somedays I forecast I might only hit 80% or 90% but know the following day will again be clear skies with high yield potential so I will run the dump loads those days also.
 
I can turn all of my dump loads on/off with my phone and various apps. I can also set timing using those apps, for example a Shelly smart plug turns off at sunset.

I have no need to automate dump loads. I consider a dump load any load that can be used to consume excess PV. For example, middle of winter, sun is shining and my battery is maybe 50% SOC. I will turn on a dump load (radiant resistance heater for example) at that 50% SOC if I forecast the SOC will hit 100% or close to it by the end of the day. This how you maximize yield and ROI. Somedays I forecast I might only hit 80% or 90% but know the following day will again be clear skies with high yield potential so I will run the dump loads those days also.
Yup jsut a difference in perspective.
 

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