diy solar

diy solar

Heat sink contact

I've just ordered some 3mm thick thermal pad for my one. Lucky I read this thread before I commissioned by battery.
I went with the thinner stuff, .5mm. Even sitting flat without the pad, the dipswitches just come even on the other side of the metal.
 
Fins are horizontally, and aren't ment for airflow, but for enlarging contact area to the heat transfer pad

Fins are to increase surface area so as to transfer the max. amt. of heat to air. And the best way to do that is to encourage the air to move past them.

As has been stated multiple times, if you orient them such that you can maximize the natural convection effect (hot air rises), you will create a small air current (albeit a small one) that will act like a fan blowing on them.
 
Fins are to increase surface area so as to transfer the max. amt. of heat to air. And the best way to do that is to encourage the air to move past them.

As has been stated multiple times, if you orient them such that you can maximize the natural convection effect (hot air rises), you will create a small air current (albeit a small one) that will act like a fan blowing on them.
In an ideal world, sure. But these boards are designed to be horizontal, so they've obviously sized the heat sink for that orientation. Thing is, if I end up putting a fan in my cabinet, the only place it will fit is on the side. That words great with the horizontal orientation, as I can but it right at the end of the fins.
 
Fins are to increase surface area so as to transfer the max. amt. of heat to air. And the best way to do that is to encourage the air to move past them.

As has been stated multiple times, if you orient them such that you can maximize the natural convection effect (hot air rises), you will create a small air current (albeit a small one) that will act like a fan blowing on them.
yet these bms's are made to be mounted horizontally....
you really dont have to explain convection to me


hey do what even you want, OP asked if a heat pad was required by manufactorer: yes, and if he should mount the heatsink straight onto the metal : no
 
I went with the thinner stuff, .5mm. Even sitting flat without the pad, the dipswitches just come even on the other side of the metal.
For me there's a 1.5-2mm gap between the heatsink and the back of the 2mm aluminium cover.
I used 15mm stand-offs and my rj45 ports are almost perfectly flush with the front of the cover, but the dip switches are 1.5-2mm back.
 
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