Heat sink question

[xhdskip]

Some generators, and all of what I would call inverters, make AC. Which is why I don't understand how the diodes work for you.

Are they carrying 200VDC? 200Vrms AC? doesn't seem to be battery DC, since that is nominally 48V.
Nor PV, since you said only one panel.

I did get a Chinesium DIN rail 2-pole transfer switch off eBay. Supposedly rated 63A, but it buzzed well below that.
It seems that "63" is a designation not a current rating for some devices, and seller may have unknowingly listed that as amperage.

I replaced with a Square D QO generator interlock, swapping out its 100A and 30A breakers for 70A and 70A.

I did see a German brand of DIN rail components that could be joined to make transfer switch and various other things.
Midnight also has ganged and interlocked breakers in some of their boxes.

not sure the diodes will work, haven't turned it on yet today, that's why I just got it put back together and am still looking for advice.

hense the 220V AC breakers, to make sure the 220V AC current stops at the breakers, the diodes are just to "help" I hope.

I've bought ATS's off Amazon, that didn't work myself, not smart enough to make one myself.

 

[Hedges]

Breakers pass current in both directions, e.g. AC.
(They would pass DC. But they may fail to stop DC, because AC breakers rely on current stopping at zero-crossing.)

Diodes only pass current in one direction; they rectify AC to pulsed DC.

If you've put diodes in your AC wires, best case is it just doesn't work but nothing bad happens. Worst case, something bad does happen.

Rectified AC fed to a transformer could do some nasty things.

Please post a schematic.

 

[xhdskip]

let me see if I can send a pic to my email, and I'll be glad to post a pic of the wiring.
Didn't have much luck yesterday, had to send pics to my buddy in Louisiana who sent them to my email,
Hang on let me try again.

 

[400bird]

It looks like those diodes are on the AC wiring.
That won't work. Not sure what you are trying to do, but you won't get AC through them.

 

[xhdskip]

Son in law sent it to me in my email, so I was able to save it and attach it.
Now realize I'm not an artist but this is the latest.

View attachment 182582

 

[xhdskip]

It looks like those diodes are on the AC wiring.
That won't work. Not sure what you are trying to do, but you won't get AC through them.

The advertisement said AC or DC 600V 85A

They are on the AC wireing

 

[xhdskip]

Just as the battery bank doesn't have the wiring hooked up,
the solar panel is not even on this diagram because it's not important to this issue.

 

[Hedges]

The advertisement said AC or DC 600V 85A

They will work with AC or DC applied.
Only DC will reach the other side.

Rectifier - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

They are on the AC wireing

That is OK if you'd like to get DC or rectified AC out. Put it into capacitors and it will give about 340VDC.
But I don't think that's what you want.
Remove them.

You should only do things you understand, or have a kit/cookbook for.

Unless you are experimenting, but that is best done at a level that won't damage equipment or pose a safety risk.
Messing with 220Vrms does both. (Trust me, I'm experienced)

⚡Shock⚡ through the heart,

And you're to blame, You give solar a bad name! Meant to be safer than a cheater cord, power cord with shrouded banana plugs + Similar wire and banana connected to equipment under test. Now it's easy to stack banana plugs and plug in HV scope probe. It's just as easy to mix up Line and...

diysolarforum.com

 

[xhdskip]

10 4 and thanks, I will remove them out of the system tomorrow morning.
Thanks again,
skip

 

[Checkthisout]

I would check mounting on that inverter. Some can only be mounted upright lest they overheat.

What are the diodes for?

 

[xhdskip]

was intending to use them to stop back feeding issues,
until a little while ago when I was enlightened to the potential hazards.

 

[Checkthisout]

was intending to use them to stop back feeding issues,
until a little while ago when I was enlightened to the potential hazards.

Yeah I got that but what is backfeeding into what?

Maybe we could help you simplify/refine your system?

 

[SeaGal]

to make sure the 220V AC current stops at the breakers, the diodes are just to "help" I hope.

OMG

You should only do things you understand

this ^^^^

I am concerned with the joints / insulating tape in the wiring for a system that could be drawing 375A (18kW @ 48V). And an 18kW inverter with one solar panel doesn't make any sense to me.

With all due respect, for the safety of yourself and those around you, please get a professional in to set your system up correctly.

 

[xhdskip]

OMG


this ^^^^

I am concerned with the joints / insulating tape in the wiring for a system that could be drawing 375A (18kW @ 48V). And an 18kW inverter with one solar panel doesn't make any sense to me.

With all due respect, for the safety of yourself and those around you, please get a professional in to set your system up correctly.

 

[SeaGal]

Sorry, I don't have the time or inclination to read all that - good luck with whatever you are trying to do ?‍

Edited to add... he's just deleted a long religious spiel, which is what my comment related to!

 

[xhdskip]

Thank you

 

[xhdskip]

They will work with AC or DC applied.
Only DC will reach the other side.

Rectifier - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

That is OK if you'd like to get DC or rectified AC out. Put it into capacitors and it will give about 340VDC.
But I don't think that's what you want.
Remove them.

You should only do things you understand, or have a kit/cookbook for.

Unless you are experimenting, but that is best done at a level that won't damage equipment or pose a safety risk.
Messing with 220Vrms does both. (Trust me, I'm experienced)

⚡Shock⚡ through the heart,

And you're to blame, You give solar a bad name! Meant to be safer than a cheater cord, power cord with shrouded banana plugs + Similar wire and banana connected to equipment under test. Now it's easy to stack banana plugs and plug in HV scope probe. It's just as easy to mix up Line and...

diysolarforum.com

I see over by your name, under it, it says " I see magnetic fields" that's another problem I've been battleing.
All I wanted the diodes for was double insurance, along with the breakers, that no back feed occurs.
If they won't work, they won't work, I'll go back to contactors I guess.
Thank you BTW.

 

[Hedges]

Current flow in any circuit goes out through one wire, back through another. It flows in a loop, and loop area and orientation forms an electromagnet. With AC, that couples to other loops, and creates EM waves that propagate. Stubs of wire work like a car antenna, couple with EM waves at resonant frequency even though no circuit loop except through capacitance. If you're familiar with how these things work, you can "see" the interaction. Only considering the conductor out but not back, things that happen might seem like black magic. I'm now a signal integrity and EMI expert.

Back to contactors? The ganged breakers should work. So long as their mounting is secure, can't shift and let both be closed at once. I'm using Square-D breaker panels with interlocks.

Contactors/relays don't seem to have a large enough gap. I tried to use DPDT to connect two heating elements in either series or parallel. It apparently pulled an arc and shorted L1 to L2, tripping a breaker. So I used the surviving contacts to control one elements or 2 just in parallel.

 

[xhdskip]

Current flow in any circuit goes out through one wire, back through another. It flows in a loop, and loop area and orientation forms an electromagnet. With AC, that couples to other loops, and creates EM waves that propagate. Stubs of wire work like a car antenna, couple with EM waves at resonant frequency even though no circuit loop except through capacitance. If you're familiar with how these things work, you can "see" the interaction. Only considering the conductor out but not back, things that happen might seem like black magic. I'm now a signal integrity and EMI expert.

Back to contactors? The ganged breakers should work. So long as their mounting is secure, can't shift and let both be closed at once. I'm using Square-D breaker panels with interlocks.

Contactors/relays don't seem to have a large enough gap. I tried to use DPDT to connect two heating elements in either series or parallel. It apparently pulled an arc and shorted L1 to L2, tripping a breaker. So I used the surviving contacts to control one elements or 2 just in parallel.

Thanks for that info and input.
To insure there is no overlap in the current with the breakers
because when one turns off the other turns on,
and I certainly don't want to send both power sources down the same line at the same time,
what about a 1 second delay timer? Say a Gaeyaele asymmetric cycle timer (GRT8-S2, A230) ???
On Amazon they're about 27 bucks. Heck, I've already got $48 in diodes that won't work,
if this timer will, I'm all for it. Supposidly 1 second delay and capable of carrying 16A.

 

[Hedges]

The diodes might work to make a dual battery isolator for vehicle alternator.
For an older one with external regulator, I simply soldered 3 wires to leads coming off windings where they connected to internal diodes, and brought to 3 external diodes for house battery.

Two relays could work, giving time for arc to extinguish before closing other set. But I'd want to interlock them at least electrically, e.g. using 3PDT relay, extra set of contacts when in NC position could enable power from timer to coil of other relay. So it can't closes its NO contacts until the first has opened. And vice-versa to cross-protect the other relay.

1 second should be enough for the relay and most loads. Might be long enough for some motors to stop, could stall if starting under load. Things like A/C, air compressor, refrigerator hopefully have delay on restart. But may only have an unloader that takes time for pressure drain.

If switching my grid-interactive inverters, manufacturer recommends 5 seconds off to ensure they disconnect, aren't connected out of phase.

Do you need this automatic? Manual flipping of breakers works. Some interlocked breakers would not enforce my desired 5 seconds (turning one on snaps other off). The one I'm using for that situation has one manually off, then move sheet metal interlock, then other manually on.