Mounting BMS to case

[hardtop]

The JBD 4S 200A BMS to replace the DOA JK arrived and I noticed there are no mounting holes lol. That makes it hard to mount. The back is a heat sink, so however its mounted that side needs to be out. But when the heat sink is outside then the B- and C- terminals are faced to the case material.

The BMS can't be loose since its a portable pack so maybe gluing it to the case with notched out holes for the negative terminals would be a way to do it, but that wouldn't be that great. The other idea I had was plumbers tape (or whatever its called), the aluminum "tape" that isn't really tape its a thin aluminum strap used to secure pipes to the wall and I could run a strap on the X and Y axis and screw the tape down. Below are pics showing what I'm talking about. The last pic is of the JK BMS and that shows where I'd like to place it. How is everyone mounting the JBD BMS?

 

[hardtop]

 

[featherlite]

Several people have used zip ties to mount the BMS to the ready rods ... like the ready rods you have implemented in your fixture ... after the ready rods have been insulated with clear vinyl tubing.

 

[740GLE]

I reached out to SFK they have a 3d printed mount for their 200a unit that’s manufactured by the same shop that makes JBD.

My JBD fit right in, I think he wanted $35-$40

 

[hardtop]

I reached out to SFK they have a 3d printed mount for their 200a unit that’s manufactured by the same shop that makes JBD.

My JBD fit right in, I think he wanted $35-$40

Do you take the heatsink off the BMS before installing it into the mounting bracket?

 

[740GLE]

Nope the bracket has the BMS 1/4” or so away from the mounting plate so it has plenty of air flow. I did mount mine vertically to help convection.

I never have constant load higher than 20a so it’s always stayed cool even in the battery box.

 

[hardtop]

I went with velcro to secure the BMS since that is what I had. Some of the heat can transfer off the sink and onto the threaded rod.

 

[NorthTown2022]

I went with velcro to secure the BMS since that is what I had. Some of the heat can transfer off the sink and onto the threaded rod.

To give it a neat finish and safeguard against cell shorting, consider covering those threaded rods with blue PEX.

 

[hardtop]

To give it a neat finish and safeguard against cell shorting, consider covering those threaded rods with blue PEX.

I was thinking about that, but then I noticed my BMS is all metal. The entire one side is a metal heat sink and the other side is also metal. If I cover the threaded rod I'd need to cover the BMS too?

 

[740GLE]

I was thinking about that, but then I noticed my BMS is all metal. The entire one side is a metal heat sink and the other side is also metal. If I cover the threaded rod I'd need to cover the BMS too?

He’s more worried about the cells and that thin blue heat shrink than the BMS

 

[NorthTown2022]

Ya the concern was sharp threads punching through the shrink wrap and shorting cells. I personally wouldn't cover the BMS.

 

[hardtop]

I saw the blue PEX at the store and was pretty tempted since it would match. The problem is it might be better to go with a different material that won't flex. Then I would place the threaded rod farther away from the cells and provide room for the PEX to slide over. Right now it would be pretty tight.

 

[EastFalcon]

That seems like a lot of craziness, I would just get the DIY sfk kit with the heat pads, I did something like this guy did:

He used the same JK bms but you could run the bms from the switch. I have it on mine and its works flawlelessly add heating to anything.

 

[EastFalcon]

SFK V4 Basic 12v Heated 280 - 310 AH Basic Kit BYOD (CASE & Enclosure) with heating! - Battery Kit for RV, Back up Power / Stand by power or power walls using Certified Automotive Grade EVE LF304 or LF280K Cells. Sunfunkits.com

SFK V4 Basic 12v Heated 280 - 310 AH Basic Kit BYOD (CASE & Enclosure) with heating! - Battery Kit for RV, Back up Power / Stand by power or power walls using Certified Automotive Grade EVE LF304 or LF280K Cells. Sunfunkits.com

www.sunfunkits.com

 

[S Davis]

Don’t drop it without protection on those rods, I can see the cells shifting and shortening to the BMS. I wouldn’t use that in a mobile application until I got some insulation between the cells and on the rod. Just hitting a pothole at speed with the rod that close. JMHO, my rig with upgrades is north of $100.000.00 with tools on board I would not want a four pack going nuclear in it.

 

[hardtop]

Don’t drop it without protection on those rods, I can see the cells shifting and shortening to the BMS. I wouldn’t use that in a mobile application until I got some insulation between the cells and on the rod. Just hitting a pothole at speed with the rod that close. JMHO, my rig with upgrades is north of $100.000.00 with tools on board I would not want a four pack going nuclear in it.

I probably should pull the rods out. The battery sits most of the time, but I did transport it here and planned to transport it elsewhere while overlanding.

How far away should I place the rods? What insulation could I get locally like at a hardware store to fit between the cells?

 

[S Davis]

When I put mine together I used 1/2” pex on the rod and plexi sheets from Lowe’s.

 

[hardtop]

When I put mine together I used 1/2” pex on the rod and plexi sheets from Lowe’s.

Nice work. What insulation (if any) did you put in-between the cells?

 

[S Davis]

Nice work. What insulation (if any) did you put in-between the cells?

I used plexi sheets from Lowe’s, they have small 8”x10” pieces in the window department.

 

[hardtop]

I used plexi sheets from Lowe’s, they have small 8”x10” pieces in the window department.

I couldn't find plexi, would polycarbonate or acrylic sheets in-between the cells suffice?