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Help find whats wrong w/ new 600 watt RV system!

gaveupontv

New Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2023
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60
Location
Sacramento Ca
Hi I bought a Renogy 600 watt system through Amazon a week or so ago and its putting out far less power than I expected. I put 2 3 panels into series, and then into a parallel into my Renogy 60 amp charge controller. I have not finalized the bt1 or bt2 (forget which) blue tooth module but that shouldn't affect anything but monitoring. I'm getting the correct voltage of 3 panels in series (2 sets of this in parallel) but my wattage is way less than 100 watts. This was later in the day, but still...
I understand I can check the panels individually by exposing them to sunlight while hooking up a amp meter, the type with a clamp that goes over the wires w/o direct connection. The video I saw was just one panel, but shouldn't I also be able to hook the 3 series connected panels together and be able to do the same? Since they are in series, I should get the same amperage (w/ 3 times the voltage of single panel) correct, although its probably better to test the panels individually?
I have 2 100 amp lead acid (dunno flooded or agm) in parallel, although I soon an going to get a lithium 300 or 400 amp battery. Kinda looking at a server rack 400 amp battery thats around $1500. I think I have about every meter I need to check things
 
If your batteries are fully charged, your panels will output no more than is needed to keep them fully charged and power loads.

Today, around noon, power a 600w load with the system. Observe the output of the charger.
 
If your batteries are charged and you have minor loading than your panels will only generate what is demanded of them. They do not push power.
 
Very good!
The batteries WERE charged when I got everything going yesterday.
I will put a large load on them tonight and see what happens.
Thank you!
 
Very good!
The batteries WERE charged when I got everything going yesterday.
I will put a large load on them tonight and see what happens.
Thank you!
No, you don't understand what they are telling you to do. As SSE instructions, you need to put a maximum load on the system at noon, or whenever you think the panels will be at maximal power. When the load exceeds what the panels can output, then you will see what their maximal output actually is. Putting the load on at night doesn't tell you anything about your panels.
 
Very good!
The batteries WERE charged when I got everything going yesterday.
I will put a large load on them tonight and see what happens.
Thank you!

No, you don't understand what they are telling you to do. As SSE instructions, you need to put a maximum load on the system at noon, or whenever you think the panels will be at maximal power. When the load exceeds what the panels can output, then you will see what their maximal output actually is. Putting the load on at night doesn't tell you anything about your panels.
I will do that tonight, I think I understand now. I was using 274 watts last night with my 2 overhead exhaust fans, my portable fan and the computer on, but i wonder what my max is, so I'll do that and find out
 
I will do that tonight, I think I understand now. I was using 274 watts last night with my 2 overhead exhaust fans, my portable fan and the computer on, but i wonder what my max is, so I'll do that and find out

Sun doesn't shine at night. :)

run those fans for about 15 minutes with solar disabled to pull the battery voltage down. Activate solar and see what the peak power is.
 
I haven't temporary disabled the CC yet. I have seen almost 400 watts though by turning on about everything I could though.
I'll get another 2 panels up there soon too
 
When the batteries are fully charged the controller will throttle the input to the batteries. Once your batteries are less than 100%, you'll see more power going into them. I got spooked by the same thing.

Keep in mind that even with 600W of theoretical input, you'll probably only realize about 70% of that, so maybe 420W. I'm upping my panels to 600W as well because right now I'm only running 400W and the days are getting shorter.

Keep hacking!
 
I am currently looking at adding two more 100W renogy panels to my existing -4-, renogy panels 100W panels in order to get to 600W
All cabled in parallel
My Rover Elite RNG-CTRL-RVR40 has the following specs:
Rated Solar Input Power 12V battery @ 520W, Maximum Solar Input Voltage (Voc) 100V DC,
If I am reading this correctly, I should be able to use 600W and a 40 amp charger controller?
and my other question is, what is the best way to fuse these 15a inline & should I use branch connectors or theY Branch harness
 

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Thanks, I currently have -5- panels attached using the branch connectors, from Renogy Each line is fused by a 15 amp inline fuse
My issue with these branch connectors is it looks like a rats nest! Works but is ugly I have been following a youTuber, Kelleys and he has a series on combiner boxes, so I'll check that out. I was thinking I didn't need to go that route ($) unless I was using two separate panel arrays or different configurations like 2S2P
 
Thanks, I currently have -5- panels attached using the branch connectors, from Renogy Each line is fused by a 15 amp inline fuse
My issue with these branch connectors is it looks like a rats nest! Works but is ugly I have been following a youTuber, Kelleys and he has a series on combiner boxes, so I'll check that out. I was thinking I didn't need to go that route ($) unless I was using two separate panel arrays or different configurations like 2S2P

I don't know how well those inline fuses work. In theory, fuses are faster than breakers, and combiner boxes have breakers AFAIK. Fuses need to be replaced, breakers can be reset.
 
I don't know how well those inline fuses work. In theory, fuses are faster than breakers, and combiner boxes have breakers AFAIK. Fuses need to be replaced, breakers can be reset.
Ha! ask me how I know how fase fuses work, I failed to cover my panel before doing my amp checks & I blew a fuse, they do work and as far as circuit breakers, I use those inside on my main board. I do like that i can also use the CBs as switches when needed. These new CBs seem to be more robust when using them as switches
 
What is the VOC of those 100w panels? 20-22 VOC? Why not do 3S, 2P into that controller? then no fuses needed.
 
I would experiment ... 3S, 2P ... 2S, 3P ... 1S, 6P. More panels in series should get charging started earlier in the day and let charging go longer. Would be interesting to see if that would be enough to overcome the shading.
 
I would experiment ... 3S, 2P ... 2S, 3P ... 1S, 6P. More panels in series should get charging started earlier in the day and let charging go longer. Would be interesting to see if that would be enough to overcome the shading.
I was just reading your tag line on your system. Impressive!
Mine was just a curiosity about what can I do. We purchased a new tractor, which means needing a barn, which the zoning board nixed
So I ended up having to downsize to a small sized cabin style barn. There again, zoning wouldn't let me run power to it & that kinda irked me! Long story short I found I could have a small solar array & they wouldn't complain so much
Considering I could decide how much I could install, I started with a LiTime 12V 230Ah, LiFePO4 Battery,with Low-Temp Protection also the 110v charger , -4- Renogy 100W panels, Rover 40A CC, A gandel 2200 watt inverter, & a Mose ATS, ((I do have a underground 110V line from my homes panel but we won't acknowledge this)) Also a lot of bits & pieces to tie it all together. The system works pretty good but I am concerned about my amps seem low but I think I found the issue. I was trying to measure amps while the battery was full. Need to drain the battery & check again on a sunny day
This shows how I managed to tuck the board along side of the tractor's implement rack
 

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