diy solar

diy solar

Hi, first post. Can anyone recommend a budget 3kw inverter/charger to run 2 fridges. Petrol $4.50 per lt. Generator is now to expensive to run for 8hr

Thanks Hedges, glad to hear your thoughts. Can you tell me what is an Isc spec?
 
I would run from a 3000W 12V inverter! Advertising a 3000W inverter is mostly a marketing ploy, and not an honest product. I would be afraid that someone is going to set their place on fire trying to actually draw 3000W out of that thing. Do the math. 3000W/12V = 250A. Look at an wire-rating chart and see what gauge wire is considered safe to run 250A through it.

4/0
 
Ahh, didn't realize Epever had an AIO.
Usually we hear of SCC, and people have had some issues with some models shutting off and having to be restarted.


If you can over-panel and program a modest charge rate optimized for battery, then it should sustain that charge rate for a range of sun conditions. And harvest max it is able to when inverter needs power.


Thanks Hedges, glad to hear your thoughts. Can you tell me what is an Isc spec?

"Isc" = Current (I), under short-circuit conditions. That's is what PV panel would put out if PV+ connected to PV-, under "Standard Test Conditions".
Normally a bit less, but could be higher under some lighting conditions.
Label gives Voc, Isc, Vmp, Imp, max fuse allowed. Data sheet gives temperature coefficients.
Use temperature coefficient from PV data sheet for Voc calculation, not the one from AIO data sheet!

Fuses and wires should be sized for 1.56x Isc. Normal circuits are sized 1.25x continuous current, and for PV an additional 1.25x multiple is applied.

SCC may have a reverse-polarity diode which would conduct PV array Isc if connected backwards. During SCC normal operation, it may draw up to Isc. A better design would limit what it draws to no more than it could handle. Some SCC if they detect over-voltage might use a FET to short the array, again carrying Isc.

PV Short Circuit Current- Isc (A) 8.85

So 2s2p would be 17.7A Isc.

I don't see a max Isc spec for AIO, only max power. They tend to quote max power, but some brands are designed to draw only what they want, not what is available. NO GUARANTEE THIS ONE WON'T DRAW EVERYTHING YOUR OVER-PANELED ARRAY CAN DELIVER, DAMAGING ITSELF!
 
Yes used temperature coefficient from data sheet, 400w also says there is a +-3% and specs upower 2000 page 25
Appreciate your time and knowledge, thankyou
 

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Ahh, didn't realize Epever had an AIO.

I dont know why you would roll the dice on this product when the competitive MPP/Growatt are proven performers at the same price.
 
I dont know why you would roll the dice on this product when the competitive MPP/Growatt are proven performers at the same price.
I was originally going for the Growatt until I realised it wasnt a stand alone unit. Their Growatt SPF3000T HVM G2 Offgrid solar inverter, integrated MPPT solar charge controller, transformer unit that is, $2.8k
 
Yes checked again, $2.45k ebayau and then another 2 on ebayau $2.2k and $1.8k.
Still almost 3 to 4 times the price. Would appreciate people giving their opion, get their facts straight before replying as trying to be so negative. Dont usually comment on blowins, but looking for intelligent feedback. You should post your own treads and let people who want to really help, help.
 
Update, yes it is just under the max voltage, but epever are now saying I cannot over pover my PV (780w) contrary to their wholesaler and common practice, over panel as you never get 100% efficiency on clouldy days. (1600w)
Now waiting for confirmation.

Thankyou to the comments of people so far who actually want to help my project ( cheapest reputable hadware that can power a fridge and chest frezzer for under 3.5k NZ dollars)
 
Have to looked at the growatt SPF-5000-ES?
Since you are shopping on eBay au, I assume that you need single phase 230V.
This is great price for more power, and a higher solar capability.
 
Yes great price, parallel conection, but 48v, still over double the price, data sheet isn't as comprehensive as epever.
Building a complete system for under $3.5 k NZD
Will I be able too?
Stay tuned.
Will be making some videos of what I wanted, what I looked at and why I chose this setup + installation at my bach.
As I stated Growatt was my first choice untill I realised their offgrid units are not stand alone setups. Outback and Vitron to expensive.
If my setup works may make a comparison video with Growatt, not liking their display.
Again all I want to do is run a fridge, chest frezzer for the cheapest price.
 
Yes, after searching the web for a month and I can search, nobody has done this, but everyone wants to. Always safe as have been doing every trade for 15 years, still alive ???
Practical vs theory, who will win??
 
Batteries are the largest cost of a system, about 10x to 20x what PV panels cost (in units of $/kWh over useful life)
Fridge and freezer cost much less than what you're planning to spend on PV system, unless those are high-end models you already have.
So buying high efficiency models could reduce system cost.

Compressor power consumption ranges from around 30W for some of the most efficient models to 300W for old ones. Motor starting surge should be met by a 2000W inverter, smaller would be sufficient for smaller compressors. Defrost and icemaker heaters maybe 800W.

A freezer can coast through the night on the ice in it, and refrigerators are kept cold by the freezer section, at least for top freezer and side-by-side models. AGM batteries have relatively limited lifespan, I've seen brands ranging from 200 to 700 deep cycles. Shutting off power at night would avoid battery drain to run them at night. Shutting off inverter would save the no-load power of inverter (which can be as much or more than some refrigerators.)

Most freezers have an electromechanical timer that turns on defroster periodically for about 20 minutes. There is a thermostat which cycles defroster off if coils exceed a certain temperature. Tapping into that circuit you could modify operation, for instance suppressing defrost during late afternoon/early evening if desired. Or not - freezer full of food would still be ice to ride through the night.

Some inverters are batteries-optional. You could skip batteries entirely, just let PV panels power the refrigeration.
 
So 1600w solar panels $1150 .00 not including mounting $350.00 + cables, connectors, circut breakers, $500.00 + hybrid system 2000w $700.00 × 10 for batteries , $11,150.00
Seriously?
My cost including 2 x 100A fullriver batteries is $3,200.00 not $13 800.00
Thats why I am doing this.
 
I was originally going for the Growatt until I realised it wasnt a stand alone unit. Their Growatt SPF3000T HVM G2 Offgrid solar inverter, integrated MPPT solar charge controller, transformer unit that is, $2.8k
I was specifically referring to the EPever unit Hedges posts vs SPF 3000TL LVM. Both are FH units, with SCC (MPPT) inverter, utility charger built in. Growatt being $712 or https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-48p/ less than 10% diffrent than the link that Hedges posted
 
It was 10 x the cost of the PV Panels. I find this so hard to believe with today's technology. Thats why I will be posting my results on youtube. If I am wrong, I will be happy to admit I am wrong. At least I challenged the theory's.
 
I have 1000W of panels (€320), 3kW AIO (€400), separate charge controller (€100) and a lot of good batteries (€2300) and I run the whole house on them - including a full-size fridge - with power to spare.
I don't really need all those batteries, but... long story.

For just a fridge and a freezer... you should be able to do with a lot less, especially battery-wise.
Also, as has been said... I sailed for years by filling the fridge/freezer to full capacity when in port, and then just giving them a few nudges on alternator/generator power.
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