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diy solar

High DC voltage MMPT and Selfish Solar

ponobill

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Sep 12, 2020
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I've been looking closely at Jack Rickard's (RIP Jack) "Selfish Solar" concept, using a large battery--perhaps a complete salvaged Tesla Model 3 battery--with associated hardware to run my shop, and perhaps grid-tie, depending on how much power my shop actually uses. The idea is to generally run the shop and all associated loads preferentially and feed the grid only when there is surplus. In Rickard's scenario, he uses micro-inverters and frequency shifts to shut them off when the battery is fully charged. The battery feeds a big inverter--like 20KW or so to supply loads and perhaps feed the grid if some reasonable battery scheduling can be managed. It seems to me this is a bit over-complicated. Since the Model 3 battery is nominally 350 volts, would it not make a lot more sense to use a high voltage MPPT system and avoid the micro-inverters entirely? The battery controller would include both overvoltage and low voltage cutoffs that would isolate the battery completely if something went very wrong, but also a charge enable system that can cut off charge to the battery at some value under the overvoltage cutoff. My current motorhome setup works this way, using two Tesla Model S batteries and a modified EVTV controller. I know the Sigeneer high voltage MPPT system specifications look good for this:
SMG-B384-80A384V Output to battery850V Max PV voltage80A Max system output
I may be misreading the Sigineer site, but I think that controller is $1000. It seems 20S PV strings at 10 amps each (assuming 400W PV panels) would be quite manageable though a bit scary. Obviously any kind of contactor used to cut off the charging would need to be capable of interrupting 400VDC at 80 amps, and that might get seriously expensive. But a 20S8P system capable of charging 75KWH worth of Model 3 battery at 30KW per hour full sun (yeah, I know, unlikely but maybe 25) seems within reach for the cost of just the panels, MPPT controller, BMS, contactors and inverter. The cabling from the panels to the MPPT would be carrying just 10A per string. The only heavy cabling would be from a combiner to the MPPT controller, and that could just be a few inches, or just a bus bar.

Given the current cost of 160 microinverters the 20S8P system would otherwise require (perhaps $20,000) it seems worthwhile to get rid of that cost. A model 3 salvage battery and controller is 20,000 from EVTV. 1K for the MPPT, 12K for a Sandi 30KW, 300-400VDC inverter, 28K for panels, that's about 60K for a massive system that should be able to supply about any size house, electric car(s), and shop. Unfortunately, I don't see a lot of ways to scale it down, as soon as you choose to go to a model 3 battery you're kind of stuck at BIG, but a completely reliable zombie apocalypse power system for 60K seems doable and reasonable.

I must be missing something, this seems a little too easy. It seems to me, though, that the real future value of PV power systems is point-of-use generation with connection to the grid as an afterthought. Especially since the power grid isn't the reliable source it used to be almost anywhere on the west coast of the USA. Maybe it's just all the smoke from the wildfires clogging up my thought processes.
 
Well, I browsed around a bit, the Gigavac GX16BEB 600 Amp 800vdc Contactor would seem to do the job. Perhaps two in series just to be safe. At 300 bucks each it's not a dealbreaker.
 
No, while the system needs breaker and fuse protection what I was browsing for was a high current, high voltage DC contactor--a relay that can be controlled by the battery management system. I found them. It looks like high voltage PV systems are not all that unusual, just not generally used for residential systems. More to the point, I'm looking for opinions on the workability of a project like this. Perhaps I'm in the wrong place to look for advice on that.
 
No, but that's pretty much what I have in mind, using the Sandi 300-400 volt inverter. The benefits are more or less the same using an MPPT converter that handles an 850V input. Small wire sizes and potentially simpler as long as I don't toast myself. The higher quality standard 10AWG panel extension wire is rated for 1000 volts, and that should be sufficient current-carrying and low enough loss for connection from each string of 20S.
 
That was the original Powerwall 1 design to stay at high voltage DC to avoid conversion losses. I don't know what the commercial limitations were but you don't have the same constraints. The Solaredge Storedge/LG Chem combination is the only one I know of that is high voltage DC coupled.
 
I think the one who owns this thread knows what I am talking about.....
If you look at the terms of service of the forum, the thread and all the content of the forum is owned by the host and the host has provided a section for ads and requested that ads be placed in the ad section. It is up to the moderators to move or remove that post.
 
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I think the one who owns this thread knows what I am talking about and has also replied to the thread.
Thank you for bringing my attention toward the ads.
Getting wire and cable advice from the manufacturers itself would be a great choice I would suggest.
Apparently you don't understand sarcasm. You suck, spammer. Clear enough?
 
I really enjoyed the late Jack Rickard's EVTV Motors, YouTube channel. I remember him saying, after working with 200 amps on his 48 volt Power Safe 100, "this is no way to run a railroad". He did like the high volt DC concept, and I too agree. Yes, but there is added safety considerations.

I too have been looking at the Zhejiang Sandi equipment. Shipping might be the biggest hurdle and cost??

I think the commercial industry has moved up to over 1000V DC equipment. Good luck on your quest.
 
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