How many Daylight LED bulbs 8 Watts equivalent to 40 Watts per bulb would be needed to imitate peak sunlight for heavy charging and daylight 24 hours

[MAGOAlta]

I started my solar system with two EPCOM solar panels one 80 and one 50 watts with 4 gauge photovoltaic connectors, installed vertically on an 11 foot tower, connected to 10 and 20 amp cfharge controllers, 3 600 amp hours sealed deep cycle batteries, 2 × 250 watt fuses, quick disconnection battery lugs, one 1500 watt with 2000 peak and one 2500 watt with 3500 peak watt modified sine wave inverters off grid, 4 gauge copper wire with weatherproof rubber protective coating, white brass electrical connectors with waterproof weatherproof protective covers, 20 amp electrical wire connectors, 3/8 inch copper terminal lugs, the wiring in the Direct Current segments paired with R5 insulated satellite cable hard wire because copper wire with hundreds of tiny filaments is limited by the resistance between each filament proportional to the equation for electrical output, an 30 watt electric low voltage charger, solar 10 volt trickle charger, and two 12 gauge weatherproof extension cords for bigger load capacity with less strain on the cords, in two 160 liter capacity Rubbermaid totes lined in the sides, top, and bottom with rigid weatherproof floatable foam exterior insulation on the ground in the center of the tower twenty feet from my home. The system charged fully in 2 hours of peak sunlight in dry outdoor conditions, operated any one appliance several hours, but did not charge adequately and reliably in rain, cloudy skies several days, and snow which is a powdery composition with a humidity level, especially in the prairies with wind in all directions that included moisture upwards through the ventilation holes in the handles, which caused rapid rust and malfunctions within the first season. The landlord for this lot did not want a tower and outdoor installation, but an indoor installation was permitted. I tried three 75 watt bright white heat lamps a few feet away but the surface of the panel distorted with ripples as in extreme weather, so had to find a source with the correct wavelength and intensity of lumens to prevent distortions and the damages by incorrect light on silicone substances as seen in a natural museum.
I changed the light source to a luminary with 10 Daylight LED 8 watt bulbs equivalent to 40 watts each and 5,000 lumens each in a globe shaped artificial light source to imitate 50,000 lumens of daylight wavelegth and lumens of normal sunlight one hour before and after peak. The solar panels were installed on a fireproof aluminum white metal siding hear bonded to a rigid foam two-inch layer and white back metal siding on the interior wall of the electrical room. The remainder of the installation used the same equipment and methods as in the original installation described in the background, and operated a mid range energy efficient chest freezer with capacity of 15 cubic feet 24 hours. I am expanding the system with a 60 watt solar panel for hot water heating o for power without water, 4 small flexible thin solar panels, 2 with a 30 watt charge controller each and 2 with a 40 watt charge controller each, a 4000 watt pure sine inverter for on or off the grid, and 6000 watt continuous and 12,000 watt peak modified sine wave inverter for 24 and 48 volt systems off grid, and an exhaust fan to remove gases from the room while the batteries are charging. I think a 24 hour artificial light source of 50,000 lumens will compensate for the lack of the peak intensity iy9cicc natural sunlight.

 

[A.Justice]

Paragraphs. Please.

1. Are you saying that you have 2 panels, one 50 watt, and one 80w, for a total of 130 watts of solar, going into 1800 amp hours of (I assume) 12 volt batteries? It would take more than 166 hours of direct sun to charge those batteries up. If so, you will most definitely need more panels to be able to really use a 2500 watt inverter, unless you are charging the batteries from mains power.

2. Why are you trying to use solar panels inside? The sun puts out a RIDICULOUS amount of light, way more than you could ever feasibly produce. You would use 100x more energy making the light, than could be captured.

 

[stienman]

1. Remove the solar panels and light bulbs
2. Replace them with a battery charger

The battery charger will be 85%-95% efficient.

The LED light bulbs are about 40%-50% efficient (unless you use Dubai bulbs, they're higher), and the solar panels will be under 20%, so the bulb/solar conversion is, at best, 10% conversion efficiency. Under real world conditions you shouldn't expect more than 5% efficiency.

There is really no reason to use light bulbs to create solar power, unless the issue is that the landlord is giving you free electricity, but won't allow you to plug in a freezer, hot water, etc, but will allow you to attach dozens of light bulbs to existing light fixtures. If that's the case, it'll be far cheaper to work out a deal with the landlord to give you one outlet that is current limited or metered, and switch to battery chargers if you have another reason for using battery power (such as regular, lengthy power outages).

 

[stienman]

All that said, the sun provides, at peak and under perfect conditions, 127,000 lumens per square meter at the earth's surface. 100-110k lumens/m2 is a sunny day.

If you are getting 5,000 lumens from any 8W bulb, please give us your supplier, as that is more energy output than energy input, and you can create an infinite energy machine with such a device.

You can expect 600 lumens from an 8W LED bulb. If your solar panels are under 1 square meter of surface area, flat, then you would need 167 lightbulbs to simulate a sunny day. You can fit over 250 bulbs in a 1m square area, so space won't be an issue. Hopefully you're allowed to build your own luminaries, as it will be difficult to source one that holds all those bulbs.

Heat will be your next hurdle, but it won't be so bad at 700W at the lighting fixture, and less at the solar panels - but probably over 1kW of heating total, so you will need to keep the air moving and move the heat out of the room. Perhaps you can run a water cooling loop around the bulbs and solar panels and use that to heat your water.

After all that, you should be able to get 50-200W out of the solar panels.

 

[A.Justice]

All that said, the sun provides, at peak and under perfect conditions, 127,000 lumens per square meter at the earth's surface. 100-110k lumens/m2 is a sunny day.....then you would need 167 lightbulbs to simulate a sunny day. You can fit over 250 bulbs in a 1m square area,

Dont forget that you would need to reflect all of that light on to the panels, the bulbs put light out 360°.

I grow stuff inside my house, and I use three 1.5 kw LED panels. Just for fun I put a 200 watt solar panel in my garden room, and it produced no more than 40 watts. That's just a hair over 1% efficient.

Using that same math, he would need to use more than 10kw to get his panels to produce their rated 130 watts.

Not really a very feasible idea, but definitely fun to think about.

 

[MattiFin]

You are trying to produce electricity by shining a led light to solar panel?
Sorry, doesn’t work that way.

 

[DrLED]

Home LEDs are basically 33% power of conventional bulbs. The Lumens widely vary by the quality of the LED chips used inside the bulb. Forget lumens. Lumens (lm) are the light measured at the source (each LED chip times how many chips. Think LUX.(lx) lux is the amount of light on your target. The further away you are the lower the lx. 360 degree bulbs are 90% of the lux away from your solar panel. I assume you are doing indoor testing and If you really want to charge a solar panel indoors you need to use LED spot lights and set them on top each solar cell. Like a PAR38 or a 5000k 80W LED Flood Light (Amazon) placed inches away from the solar panel.