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How to make a fixed solar cable crimped straight joint (not using MC4)

Boron

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Oct 26, 2023
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UK SE Kent
I want to make custom long tails in place of the factory supplied MC4 (ie cut it off and joint a suitable length of cable down to my junction/marshalling cabinet). I am looking at 4mm and 6mm solar cables. Can anyone suggest a legitimate ferrule crimper system to make this straight joint. I would insulate it with quality adhesive type 4:1 heat shrink sleeve after crimping. I would also leave a coil of spare length in place in case a panel needs to be replaced. As you all know the market is flooded with Cheap Charlie fake products and thin poor quality ferrules/terminals etc plus much of the tools do not have the proper anvils and apply sufficient pressure for a reliable joint. I believe a company Weidmuller pioneered this system and maybe there are other reputable makers.

From personal experience I would strongly advise against Cheap Charlie counterfeits

Does anyone have any advice here

Cheers Robin
 
Use an open barrel butt splice. Same thing used in automotive wiring looms so proven reliability in harsh conditions.

Make certain you use the appropriate sized crimp for your wires, and the correct tool.

Cover with UV stable sealant filled heat shrink.
 

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Use an open barrel butt splice. Same thing used in automotive wiring looms so proven reliability in harsh conditions.

Make certain you use the appropriate sized crimp for your wires, and the correct tool.

Cover with UV stable sealant filled heat shrink.
If only it were that simple Buddy, I wouldnt have made a heretical post. For a start Cheap Charlie floods market with counterfeit items that are thinner and inadequate to maintain grip force let alone perform cold welding, also many of the ordinary crimp pliers have poor quality anvils and precision to crimp properly. How do your source a reputable barrel but splice (you pic is not correct , you might as well just twist two wires together - we know how reliable that is
Screenshot 2024-03-21 072356.png
Here is Cheap Charlie barrel butt splice
Screenshot 2024-03-21 072720.png
Here is a US version see wall thickness comparison, now find the correct crimp tool, you need some muscle here

see the prohibitive cost https://uk.farnell.com/c/connectors/connector-tools-accessories/crimp-tools?brand=panduit
ca £500 for the crimp tool
 
If only it were that simple Buddy, I wouldnt have made a heretical post. For a start Cheap Charlie floods market with counterfeit items that are thinner and inadequate to maintain grip force let alone perform cold welding, also many of the ordinary crimp pliers have poor quality anvils and precision to crimp properly. How do your source a reputable barrel but splice (you pic is not correct , you might as well just twist two wires together - we know how reliable that is
View attachment 203404
Here is Cheap Charlie barrel butt splice
View attachment 203405
Here is a US version see wall thickness comparison, now find the correct crimp tool, you need some muscle here

see the prohibitive cost https://uk.farnell.com/c/connectors/connector-tools-accessories/crimp-tools?brand=panduit
ca £500 for the crimp tool
My experience working in Automotive manufacturing led me to use the open barrel crimp i pictured. I’m not sure why you think closed barrel is a better option?
 
I want to make custom long tails in place of the factory supplied MC4
Why?

If you need longer cables, why not just connect via the existing MC4 connectors? If you use high-quality ones, like Staubli, they are designed for longevity in harsh environments and IMHO would likely be more reliable than attempting a DIY crimped connection... and less work.
 
Based on previous post it looks like Boron has some safety concerns about mc4 connectors.

Personally I have mixed and matched mc4 brands with zero issues but I guess time will tell.

I use a cheap crimp tool and bougerv connectors when terminating my own cables.

They mate well with the mc4 on the various panels I have.
 
I use a cheap crimp tool and bougerv connectors when terminating my own cables.
BougeRV supplier of fridges, solar panels etc for recreational vehicles
MC4 style connectors - btw the staubli original was not designed for multiple matings as you say YMMV and these are only rated for 30Adc
thnx
 
Having a crimper meant for aircraft cable (as in wire rope, not electrical cable) work, I have long, over 20 years, used copper 3/32" swedges for splicing 10 gauge stranded cable on PV systems. They pass any kind of pull test, most likely not approved or legal, but they work great. Cheap too, and a cheap crimper (just as good as the pro model I have just less convenient to use) can be had for less than $50.00. Plus you can now use it on cable for many other uses. Aircraft Spruce is a good source for the crimper and the swedges, also called nico's sometimes.
 
Having a crimper meant for aircraft cable (as in wire rope, not electrical cable) work, I have long, over 20 years, used copper 3/32" swedges for splicing 10 gauge stranded cable on PV systems. They pass any kind of pull test, most likely not approved or legal, but they work great. Cheap too, and a cheap crimper (just as good as the pro model I have just less convenient to use) can be had for less than $50.00. Plus you can now use it on cable for many other uses. Aircraft Spruce is a good source for the crimper and the swedges, also called nico's sometimes.
I have a set courtesy of the USMC circa 1980 or so. the ones I have can cold weld a 0000 cable in a ring terminal crimp... did it once or twice on a 12 volts system in my camper.
 
If only it were that simple Buddy, I wouldnt have made a heretical post. For a start Cheap Charlie floods market with counterfeit items that are thinner and inadequate to maintain grip force let alone perform cold welding, also many of the ordinary crimp pliers have poor quality anvils and precision to crimp properly. How do your source a reputable barrel but splice (you pic is not correct , you might as well just twist two wires together - we know how reliable that is
Sourcing proper BS or DIN standard barrel butt splices is easy enough and they are not expensive. You just need to shop electrical suppliers, not amazon or ebay.

Tooling is another matter if you are on the market for cheap. You probably just need to try your luck with cheapo tooling and modify it if needed. Dies can be filed/ground for tighter or more loose crimp based on pull test.
For example these could be usable:
 
I want to make custom long tails in place of the factory supplied MC4 (ie cut it off and joint a suitable length of cable down to my junction/marshalling cabinet). I am looking at 4mm and 6mm solar cables. Can anyone suggest a legitimate ferrule crimper system to make this straight joint. I would insulate it with quality adhesive type 4:1 heat shrink sleeve after crimping. I would also leave a coil of spare length in place in case a panel needs to be replaced. As you all know the market is flooded with Cheap Charlie fake products and thin poor quality ferrules/terminals etc plus much of the tools do not have the proper anvils and apply sufficient pressure for a reliable joint. I believe a company Weidmuller pioneered this system and maybe there are other reputable makers.

From personal experience I would strongly advise against Cheap Charlie counterfeits

Does anyone have any advice here

Cheers Robin
This is US based company.

 
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