diy solar

diy solar

I'm confused... the PV watts won't go above 1.3k, SPF 12000T DVM with 3 x 48v 100 AH Lifepower 4 batteries, 18 x 320 Renogy panels

Some details, crazy stuff.

  1. Red Arrow. I'm trying to get my system to stop charging itself from Grid. If the battery is less than ~85 or higher then I will use enough energy over the night that Grid will be required to charge.
  2. Yellow Arrow. Grid charged the battery to 80% (setting 13) then stopped and ran off battery.
  3. Yellow to Purple: I think the unit rebooted because I was messing with it.
  4. Purple Arrow: I found if I stopped everything inverter and batteries. The started it up in "wait" or off mode. The unit pulled 40-44amps from the solar. Total win that this even happened. Now to figure out why
  5. Green arrow was the system passed the setting 13 (I changed it to 90%) and then went into slow charge.

What happens is the batteries will be at 90-100% then it works great over right. The next day the unit will charge it up somewhat. Another night will pass with no grid charging but the battery will be lower. The third day the batteries will struggle to get pass 60% even though there is much solar available. The inverter just won't use it. Even though max charge (setting 2) is sitting at 50a.

I need to figure out is how do I get the solar to kick in past 24 amps to actually charge the battery when the batteries are less than the setting 13. How do I force the inverter to charge as much as possible?

1655141007016.png
 
OK, so we added another battery. I'm starting to wonder if my whole problem was just that I needed to restart my Growatt. After adding the battery and just leaving it off it was charging at 1600 watts at 6pm which normally we are dropping way off at that point. I'm topping off the new battery and letting them equalize tonight.

Stay tuned, tomorrow we test if the unit can handle the AC. Quick reminder the AC only pulls about 3000 watts but for some reason the inverter shuts off when the AC tries to start. I'm hoping our new battery will help with the surge? We now have 4 x 48v 100ah batteries. Let's hope!
 
OK, so we added another battery. I'm starting to wonder if my whole problem was just that I needed to restart my Growatt. After adding the battery and just leaving it off it was charging at 1600 watts at 6pm which normally we are dropping way off at that point. I'm topping off the new battery and letting them equalize tonight.

Stay tuned, tomorrow we test if the unit can handle the AC. Quick reminder the AC only pulls about 3000 watts but for some reason the inverter shuts off when the AC tries to start. I'm hoping our new battery will help with the surge? We now have 4 x 48v 100ah batteries. Let's hope!
3000W running or inrush?
 
3000W running or inrush?
3000w running, however this unit can surge to 36,000 w for 20ms. This unit is supposed to be able to start a 2 ton unit so I'm not sure how it couldn't handle a small window air conditioner but I guess it's possible?
 
@Bobby Cannon

I know you've tried Li, and US2 mode. But try USR mode.

I have a growatt sc4880 (Stand alone MPPT), and I can only get USR mode to work properly

I don't have the EG4 batteries with the com port, but I do have LiFePO4 and the manual states I should be using US2. However it behaves like you stated, it does squat. So I have it set to USR, and it works perfectly.
 
Great news, once we hooked up the 4th battery the Inverter is now able to start and run the AC. This means, in my case, the SPF 12000T DVM *DOES* require the full 400 ah batteries (like the manual said) even though Signature Solar sales (or support) said it was only required for lead acid.

Today, I'll be monitoring the PV to see if we break the 1.33 wall that I have been experiencing. We started the day at a full 100% charge because I let the unit run in "Utility" first mode all night. This means the batteries were only charged and the new battery was able to equalize (top off) over night.

Today is the day we find out if I need to do something else or if this unit is going to just work...
 
OK, so far so good. Today has been cloudy but it's been about 3 hours, and everything is working as expected even though we have overcast.

We are charging more than we are using. Left part of the image. And the right part is my grid usage. My grid usage is only 50 watts. You can see the dramatic drop off by putting the AC unit on the solar system. This is excellent progress. As long as it holds up when we do an overnight test. I'll need the panel to recharge the batteries while running the AC all day. That will be the true test.

1655219474743.png
 
OK, so the story continues, but it seems getting a 4th battery where I can actually put a load on the inverter may have helped. Or just a reboot of the inverter fixed it. However, yesterday I ran all day with my AC on the inverter and it work perfectly. I messed up last night and had it on "SOL" mode which means I used grid last night instead of batteries.

However, today my system is really pulling the power from my panels. I have broken through the 1.33kw barrier I was stuck at. I think it's because the inverter is seeing more load that 400-600watts. Now that the inverter is getting more use, it seems like it will use the panels as I expected.

If this goes well, I may add 2 more batteries to top off my total batteries from 400ah to 600 ah.
1655301951542.png
 
I'm having the same problem with this inverter +EG4 batteries combo. I have the SPF 12000T DVM and 3 x EG4-LifePower4. When configured to LI in option 05, the option 02 lock in 50A, and the PV charge power never breaks 2600W (in my case I have 2 separate arrays connected to PV1 & PV2, each one consist of 3S2P 450W pannels).
If I use the US2 in option 05 and set option 02 to, let's say 100A, the PV power goes up until 4.1-4.6KW on a sunny day.
I've give up on this, I think it must be some kind of incompatibility between these batteries and the inverter, so I would you like to kow which exact values did you use to set it on user mode.
For my testings I used the following
Option 05 -> US2
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 58V
Option 20 -> 56.5V

Option 21 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 15%
Option 12 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 20%
Option 13 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 60%

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I'm having the same problem with this inverter +EG4 batteries combo. I have the SPF 12000T DVM and 3 x EG4-LifePower4. When configured to LI in option 05, the option 02 lock in 50A, and the PV charge power never breaks 2600W (in my case I have 2 separate arrays connected to PV1 & PV2, each one consist of 3S2P 450W pannels).
If I use the US2 in option 05 and set option 02 to, let's say 100A, the PV power goes up until 4.1-4.6KW on a sunny day.
I've give up on this, I think it must be some kind of incompatibility between these batteries and the inverter, so I would you like to kow which exact values did you use to set it on user mode.
For my testings I used the following
Option 05 -> US2
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 58V
Option 20 -> 56.5V

Option 21 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 15%
Option 12 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 20%
Option 13 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 60%

Any help would be appreciated.


I have a growatt stand alone charge controller the LI, I cant use because no supported BMS communication. Also the US2 sucks.

I have found USE works the best.

So for you maybe try
Option 05 -> USE
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 55.2V
Option 20 -> 55.2V

Yes I keep those last opions the same voltage.

I charge to 3.45v per cell = 55.2v
Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to charge higher than this. Plus this voltage will help keep your pack balanced, and keep it from high cell voltage disconnect.
 
I'm having the same problem with this inverter +EG4 batteries combo. I have the SPF 12000T DVM and 3 x EG4-LifePower4. When configured to LI in option 05, the option 02 lock in 50A, and the PV charge power never breaks 2600W (in my case I have 2 separate arrays connected to PV1 & PV2, each one consist of 3S2P 450W pannels).
If I use the US2 in option 05 and set option 02 to, let's say 100A, the PV power goes up until 4.1-4.6KW on a sunny day.
I've give up on this, I think it must be some kind of incompatibility between these batteries and the inverter, so I would you like to kow which exact values did you use to set it on user mode.
For my testings I used the following
Option 05 -> US2
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 58V
Option 20 -> 56.5V

Option 21 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 15%
Option 12 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 20%
Option 13 -> I don't know what to enter here, while in Li mode, I was using 60%

Any help would be appreciated.
I use LI for 05. When you use LI mode the 02 setting cannot be set. My system will adjust the 02 value based on what the EG4 batteries request. It will go up and down based on the batteries communications.

My system will pull as much solar as possible until it hits 90% battery charge state then the inverter will back off based on the battery comms.

I don't use "US2" because I cannot seem to get the battery level to work. LI works very well.

Battery setup is crucial, be sure that only one battery has all switches off (down). This will be your master battery. All other batteries should be increment. Since you have 3 batteries, do this

* Battery 1 - All down
* Battery 2 - down, up, down, down
* Battery 3 - up, up, down, down
 
I have a growatt stand alone charge controller the LI, I cant use because no supported BMS communication. Also the US2 sucks.

I have found USE works the best.

So for you maybe try
Option 05 -> USE
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 55.2V
Option 20 -> 55.2V

Yes I keep those last opions the same voltage.

I charge to 3.45v per cell = 55.2v
Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to charge higher than this. Plus this voltage will help keep your pack balanced, and keep it from high cell voltage disconnect.
Does your battery level meter work?
 
I use LI for 05. When you use LI mode the 02 setting cannot be set. My system will adjust the 02 value based on what the EG4 batteries request. It will go up and down based on the batteries communications.

My system will pull as much solar as possible until it hits 90% battery charge state then the inverter will back off based on the battery comms.

I don't use "US2" because I cannot seem to get the battery level to work. LI works very well.

Battery setup is crucial, be sure that only one battery has all switches off (down). This will be your master battery. All other batteries should be increment. Since you have 3 batteries, do this

* Battery 1 - All down
* Battery 2 - down, up, down, down
* Battery 3 - up, up, down, down
The batteries are setup correctly, one master battery (address 0) and the others 2 on address 2 & 3, 1 is reserved for the inverter.
I use the exact same DIP switches that you posted.
My inverter don't pull all the PV array capacity when the batteries are discharged in the morning, when the bank is 20-30% on a full sunny day, the inverter just pull up to 50A combined with the 2 PV arrays. Even, I made an experiment, if I cut off one PV array, the inverter just pull 25A (that it's 50A/2), it doesn't matter which PV array is connected, if I only connect one PV at a time, the inverter just pull 25A, with both active it pulls 50A.
If I set up the inverter on US2, and switch on everything, the PV arrays, it pulls 65-75A combined with both PV arrays connected simultaneously.
 
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Does your battery level meter work?
Yes, it works, the communication between inverter and batteries works fine, the inverter show the correct state of charge.
In fact, I have my DIP switchhes configured exactly as you posted earlier.
Obviously, if and change to US2 mode, the state of charge change to voltage, not percentage.
 
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I have a growatt stand alone charge controller the LI, I cant use because no supported BMS communication. Also the US2 sucks.

I have found USE works the best.

So for you maybe try
Option 05 -> USE
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 55.2V
Option 20 -> 55.2V

Yes I keep those last opions the same voltage.

I charge to 3.45v per cell = 55.2v
Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to charge higher than this. Plus this voltage will help keep your pack balanced, and keep it from high cell voltage disconnect.
Ok, I will try those.
Do you have any idea what to set on Option 12 & 13?
 
I have a growatt stand alone charge controller the LI, I cant use because no supported BMS communication. Also the US2 sucks.

I have found USE works the best.

So for you maybe try
Option 05 -> USE
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 19 -> 55.2V
Option 20 -> 55.2V

Yes I keep those last opions the same voltage.

I charge to 3.45v per cell = 55.2v
Contrary to popular belief, you do not need to charge higher than this. Plus this voltage will help keep your pack balanced, and keep it from high cell voltage disconnect.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I ended with these settings

Option 05 -> USE
Option 02 -> 100A
Option 12 -> 51.8V
Option 13 -> 53.6V
Option 19 -> 55.2V
Option 20 -> 55.2V
Option 21 -> 51.2V
 
Here is what today looked like. It was a great sunny day so I'm not sure why solar won't cross 1.3k...

View attachment 97955

Best state of charge I got to today was 69% which is not enough to make it the night. I know Grid will kick in and charge my batteries tonight.

View attachment 97956
USE setting will fix your issue, US2 is junk and won’t work. I don’t think communicating works as well as many would like.
 
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