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I'm not an affiliate. I found some handy unique conduit clamps at Grainger

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Patzcakes

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I used schedule 40 for my conduit so I was looking for some suitable non-metal clamps.
They didn't look like they fit at first but I found out they were pressure activated and they closed effortlessly when I put my foot on the pipe.
They attach with one screw and they have a big cavity underneath for roofing caulk. Here's where you order them:

This clear, all-purpose silicone says it's 100% water-proof, freeze and sun-proof, mold-free and same day rain-ready with strong adhesion and was reasonably priced at Walmart of which I am not an affiliate.
Hope everybody's having a great day.?
 

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Oh man, those are hella inexpensive, esp from Grainger!

I'm looking for something like this for my RV rooftop conduit runs for pv and several ethernet cables.

Thanks for sharing and the photos and link!
 
My only concern with the plastic ones is sun degradation over time. But if they are cheap, easy to replace and last a few years, then it's better than rusty steel ones making rust stains down your roof.
 

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Here is a good trick for Grainger products. Zoro is owned by them and sell the same stuff. Looks like these are cheaper on Zoro.

www.zoro.com

Arlington Conduit Hanger, Nylon, 1.8 In. L, 0.8 In. H NM2015 | Zoro

Order Arlington Conduit Hanger, Nylon, 1.8 In. L, 0.8 In. H, NM2015 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com www.zoro.com
 
Supervstech said:
Pvc conduit cannot be used on rooftop installation... it will expand and separate in short order... needs to be metal.
Click to expand...
Listed Schedule 40 and 80 Conduit have been used in Florida for years including on rooftops. It is preferred along the coast because it is corrosion resistant.
 
Patzcakes said:
Listed Schedule 40 and 80 Conduit have been used in Florida for years including on rooftops. It is preferred along the coast because it is corrosion resistant.
Click to expand...

True... ref:
...In summary, Rigid PVC Conduit is a safe wiring method permitted by the NEC for use on rooftops.
Click to expand...

But... you also need to know what you're doing because @Supervstech has a good point, for example ref:
...Rigid PVC Conduit has an ambient temperature limitation of 50ºC (122ºF).
Click to expand...
Above those temperatures, it'll start to sag. Now, if you're running cool water through it, then it won't reach those temperatures. Florida and Arizona frequently exceed those roof temperatures. So, if you're running wires carrying amps that are creating additional heat you could be in serious trouble. Running larger gauge wires will help keep them cooler.

Supervstech said:
Pvc conduit ... will expand and separate in short order... needs to be metal.
Click to expand...
All materials expand and contract even metal. Long pipe runs
typically have bends engineered into their lengths to avoid damage
(simple 2D bend shown to the right, click image for more).

Without them, they can punch holes in walls, crack a coupling, make a
roof penetration leak, or break the pipe. Some construction materials
are designed to expand/contract less than others. Best is to
understand how much the pipe/conduit will expand/contract and
design for it.


For PVC:
ref:
... undoubtedly leads to expansion and contraction of conduit; however, the use of appropriate
expansion and expansion-deflection fittings, designed to compensate for such expansion ...
are intended to mitigate damage or breakage of conduit joints ...
Click to expand...

The longer the run the greater the expansion/contraction.		ref:
1621597184552.png

So, done properly it can be used and isn't against code. But it needs extra supports and expansion fittings or properly engineered bends.

The longer the run the more at-risk.
Of course, your local codes and inspectors may have other ideas.
 
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Patzcakes said:
Listed Schedule 40 and 80 Conduit have been used in Florida for years including on rooftops. It is preferred along the coast because it is corrosion resistant.
Click to expand...
Oh, it is legal to use, but not run the way it looks here.
They make long expansion fittings to allow pipe movement without damage, and as svetz points out, there are run methods to minimize damage.
the issue is pvc expands A LOT, and when it does, it will rip out the elbows, snap clamps off the roof, etc.
 
Also, those plumbing elbows prevent any wire from being pulled through... they don’t make them in electrical conduit for a reason.
They should be pull fittings, like LB, or LS, if tight turns are needed.
plumbing pvc isn’t outdoor rated either.
 
I have a 2" PVC conduit across the yard (along a concrete wall), and it buckles with S-bends. It broke apart a conduit body at one end.
I've seen gasketed slip-joints to address that.

I originally ran PVC for my AC and DC wires. Initial system was signed off, but when I expanded the next inspector said it wasn't allowed for exposed horizontal runs (had it along the wall and a retaining wall), only vertically. It would have had be buried 18", and there were roots in the way. So I replaced with rigid conduit, surface mount and buried 12".

The PVC I'm now using for low-voltage control wiring. But it still has that buckling problem.

Outdoor/UV rated or not, the grey Carlon PVC gets sunburn.
PVC also gives off toxic fumes in a fire, so I'd prefer not to have it indoors.

Something I learned the hard way is that unlike rigid/IMT/EMT conduit, factory-cut pieces of PVC have to be reamed inside. The right angle cut leaves a sharp edge, which will snag cable jacket. Especially at a bend, because the curved cable is pressed against it.
 
svetz said:
True... ref:


But... you also need to know what you're doing because @Supervstech has a good point, for example ref:

Above those temperatures, it'll start to sag. Now, if you're running cool water through it, then it won't reach those temperatures. Florida and Arizona frequently exceed those roof temperatures. So, if you're running wires carrying amps that are creating additional heat you could be in serious trouble. Running larger gauge wires will help keep them cooler.


All materials expand and contract even metal. Long pipe runs
typically have bends engineered into their lengths to avoid damage
(simple 2D bend shown to the right, click image for more).

Without them, they can punch holes in walls, crack a coupling, make a
roof penetration leak, or break the pipe. Some construction materials
are designed to expand/contract less than others. Best is to
understand how much the pipe/conduit will expand/contract and
design for it.


For PVC:
ref:


The longer the run the greater the expansion/contraction.		ref:
View attachment 49860

So, done properly it can be used and isn't against code. But it needs extra supports and expansion fittings or properly engineered bends.

The longer the run the more at-risk.
Of course, your local codes and inspectors may have other ideas.
Click to expand...
True that. I used the cleaner and the glue. I also made sure to stick to the 40% rule, that's why the section with the 5 wires in it is so big: 1½".
I'll let you know what the inspector says. If I have to redo it it wouldn't be the first time. When I saw that Solar Wholesale sends out flexible pvc with their kits, I started thinking schedule 40 would work in northern Illinois.?
Supervstech said:
Oh, it is legal to use, but not run the way it looks here.
They make long expansion fittings to allow pipe movement without damage, and as svetz points out, there are run methods to minimize damage.
the issue is pvc expands A LOT, and when it does, it will rip out the elbows, snap clamps off the roof, etc.
Click to expand...
When cleaned and glued properly, the PVC is more than able to run 70 lbs. of steamy-hot water safely to code, then cold, then hot. I've been told schedule 40 will work with the clamps I have: they're flexible when they need to be. Like I said, we'll see what the inspector says. Hoping that inspector will be up with the times.?
 
Hedges said:
I have a 2" PVC conduit across the yard (along a concrete wall), and it buckles with S-bends. It broke apart a conduit body at one end.
I've seen gasketed slip-joints to address that.

I originally ran PVC for my AC and DC wires. Initial system was signed off, but when I expanded the next inspector said it wasn't allowed for exposed horizontal runs (had it along the wall and a retaining wall), only vertically. It would have had be buried 18", and there were roots in the way. So I replaced with rigid conduit, surface mount and buried 12".

The PVC I'm now using for low-voltage control wiring. But it still has that buckling problem.

Outdoor/UV rated or not, the grey Carlon PVC gets sunburn.
PVC also gives off toxic fumes in a fire, so I'd prefer not to have it indoors.

Something I learned the hard way is that unlike rigid/IMT/EMT conduit, factory-cut pieces of PVC have to be reamed inside. The right angle cut leaves a sharp edge, which will snag cable jacket. Especially at a bend, because the curved cable is pressed against it.
Click to expand...
Thank you for sharing that.
 
Supervstech said:
Also, those plumbing elbows prevent any wire from being pulled through... they don’t make them in electrical conduit for a reason.
They should be pull fittings, like LB, or LS, if tight turns are needed.
plumbing pvc isn’t outdoor rated either.
Click to expand...
True about the elbows. I had to run the wires through before I glued the elbows. Some of the elbows I didn't glue because my wires and connections are all waterproof and if it leaks at an elbow when it rains or snows it will simply run down the roof the way I want it to without a problem.
My system is plug& play. Everything is waterproof already, so some of the conduit is simply to keep it out of the sun.
The conduit that comes down and goes into the house is the part that I had to be sure it will be water-tight.?
 
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