Input on design...

[Annie C]

For my 1987 Westy. i am worried about not damaging the 90 amp alternator. No inverter needed yet. Solar panel(s) not bought yet. Space is at premium. Adding 200w to start, either one 200W or two 100w. Looking at Renogy but others you suggest? In Canada so less selection.

have added on/off for alternator power if stop and go driving

 

[Whinny]

If you are looking at Amazon 'cuz its easier I would use Eco-Worthy long before Renogy products. Keep your fuses/breakers as close to the battery/buss bar as practical,

ECO-WORTHY 195 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel 200W for 12V Battery Charging, Compact Design for RV Trailer Camper Marine Boat Off Grid : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden

ECO-WORTHY 195 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel 200W for 12V Battery Charging, Compact Design for RV Trailer Camper Marine Boat Off Grid : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.ca

 

[Annie C]

If you are looking at Amazon 'cuz its easier I would use Eco-Worthy long before Renogy products. Keep your fuses/breakers as close to the battery/buss bar as practical,

ECO-WORTHY 195 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel 200W for 12V Battery Charging, Compact Design for RV Trailer Camper Marine Boat Off Grid : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden

ECO-WORTHY 195 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel 200W for 12V Battery Charging, Compact Design for RV Trailer Camper Marine Boat Off Grid : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.ca

Okay. I will check the panels out. Thank you.

 

[Whinny]

In your drawing you show the solar panel going to the buss bar, it goes to the DCDC/MPPT. You need a fuse or breaker to the charger as well-close to the buss bar
I'm in Steveston, there is a place in Burnaby you might want to call as well. Don't know if you like riding over right now....

https://amray.solar/

 

[HRTKD]

Don't forget that the Renogy device is limited to 25v input on the PV side. You don't have much room to expand, but it does limit you on what panels you can use and how they can be configured. I'm not a fan of that Renogy device.

 

[Whinny]

Like the above post, I'm not a fan of the PV limitations, but for your use with limited solar space I think it's a good choice. There are other options to do the job but are probably more than twice the price and would take up more space. You have enough headroom to add a portable panel to the controller if you wish, just no where to store it! Keep an eye on panel specs when shopping, Amray 200w panels may be 24v nominal...

 

[Annie C]

In your drawing you show the solar panel going to the buss bar, it goes to the DCDC/MPPT. You need a fuse or breaker to the charger as well-close to the buss bar
I'm in Steveston, there is a place in Burnaby you might want to call as well. Don't know if you like riding over right now....

https://amray.solar/

So direct from panel to MMPT IN. OKay. I had seen some with both.

I think i did? am I correct to have put in 75 ANL close to the starter/alt [plus on/off] and 65 out from DCDC to + Bus [close to the DCDC]. IN hindsight perhaps it should be a fuse at 65 and a shut off? Can only find a combo fuse/on-off in 10’s. Renogy specifically said 75 and 65. Comments please.

I checked out the site. Mainly home applications. I just don’t have the room width for the larger panels, and weight. They have one 200W panel that would fit. Yes, one advantage living on an island also has some drawbacks right now.

 

[Annie C]

Don't forget that the Renogy device is limited to 25v input on the PV side. You don't have much room to expand, but it does limit you on what panels you can use and how they can be configured. I'm not a fan of that Renogy device.

Can you expand on your dislikes?

I went up a notch to the 50 from the 30 for that reason. My vehicle is very small -an 87 Westy. Just looking for 2-3 nights without power or driving at most. I am also worried about the 90 amp alternator and robbing to much from it. I added a on/off for stop and go city driving as a result. Actually it would be great to have that on/off within reach in the drivers seat area.

I am very attracted to Victron. I was trying to save space and $. That being said, If it is not going to work or have limitations? I did see a video of and AU gentleman who was not happy with the DCDC/MPPT combo for not regulating the DCDC output well.

 

[Annie C]

Like the above post, I'm not a fan of the PV limitations, but for your use with limited solar space I think it's a good choice. There are other options to do the job but are probably more than twice the price and would take up more space. You have enough headroom to add a portable panel to the controller if you wish, just no where to store it! Keep an eye on panel specs when shopping, Amray 200w panels may be 24v nominal...

Exactly. However, I am still thinking about a portable flex panel at some point. We often are in shade when parked. It would fit for storage in the closed pop top. When it is just myself and my wife, we take out the upper bed and it creates a large flat space. I would then add a outlet for a MC4 plug in somewhere To feed into the planned MC4.

Thank you very much for your input!

 

[HRTKD]

Can you expand on your dislikes?

I went up a notch to the 50 from the 30 for that reason. My vehicle is very small -an 87 Westy. Just looking for 2-3 nights without power or driving at most. I am also worried about the 90 amp alternator and robbing to much from it. I added a on/off for stop and go city driving as a result. Actually it would be great to have that on/off within reach in the drivers seat area.

I am very attracted to Victron. I was trying to save space and $. That being said, If it is not going to work or have limitations? I did see a video of and AU gentleman who was not happy with the DCDC/MPPT combo for not regulating the DCDC output well.

I don't have any Renogy products in my RV, so no direct experience. From reading this forum, I wouldn't put Renogy in the "high quality" category. The design of the MPPT/DC-DC device is very limiting. It sounds soooo good to get both features in a single device, but once you dig into the details, it's very limited. But like Whinny said, if space is an issue, a combined device is great. The device should help limit the number of amps are pulled out of the vehicle alternator/battery.

Most of my equipment is Victron. Reliability and functionality has been great. The downside is that it's going to cost you.

 

[Annie C]

For my 1987 Westy. i am worried about not damaging the 90 amp alternator. No inverter needed yet. Solar panel(s) not bought yet. Space is at premium. Adding 200w to start, either one 200W or two 100w. Looking at Renogy but others you suggest? In Canada so less selection.

have added on/off for alternator power if stop and go driving

Summary:

1. Look at Eco-Worthy on Amazon.ca
2. PV OUT directly to PV IN
3. Make sure Charger is isolated - 75 in 65 out.
4. Limitations of PV. Make sure I understand. MPPT max is 600W Said in Manual. Am I missing something?
5. DCDC/MPPT 50 reduces to 25Amps if BOTH have input. I only have a 90Amp alternator. System will be small, but upgrades in future not possible.
6.

 

[Annie C]

I don't have any Renogy products in my RV, so no direct experience. From reading this forum, I wouldn't put Renogy in the "high quality" category. The design of the MPPT/DC-DC device is very limiting. It sounds soooo good to get both features in a single device, but once you dig into the details, it's very limited. But like Whinny said, if space is an issue, a combined device is great. The device should help limit the number of amps are pulled out of the vehicle alternator/battery.

Most of my equipment is Victron. Reliability and functionality has been great. The downside is that it's going to cost you.

The more I read and research I like the Victron System. I did get the Smart Shunt and Shore power from them. We have a great local marine store here. For me here the Renogy was the same price as one each from Victron. So 1/2 the price. However, I am the first one to pay more for quality if it makes sence not to mention the help I get from the staff at the Marine shop. Something to think about in the next several weeks before install. SOK battery in the mail to me now!

 

[Annie C]

So direct from panel to MMPT IN. OKay. I had seen some with both.

I think i did? am I correct to have put in 75 ANL close to the starter/alt [plus on/off] and 65 out from DCDC to + Bus [close to the DCDC]. IN hindsight perhaps it should be a fuse at 65 and a shut off? Can only find a combo fuse/on-off in 10’s. Renogy specifically said 75 and 65. Comments please.

I checked out the site. Mainly home applications. I just don’t have the room width for the larger panels, and weight. They have one 200W panel that would fit. Yes, one advantage living on an island also has some drawbacks right now.

Like this?

 

[Annie C]

Coming up to the weekend. Hope for more input.

 

[HRTKD]

Fuses and breakers are usually sized 1.25 times the expected number of amps through the circuit. Use the next highest amp rated breaker/fuse.

 

[Annie C]

Here is an update

 

[HRTKD]

I'm not familiar with your solar charge controller, but I think you have the wiring incorrect to it from the solar panel(s). Both the negative and the positive go to the solar charge controller. The negative from the panel does NOT go to the common bus bar.

I don't think an ANL fuse, immediately downstream of the battery, is appropriate. The general recommendation is to use a Class T fuse in that location. Another forum member reported that the ANL fuse in that location was getting very hot.

I don't know that a battery disconnect switch is necessary between the DC-DC and the starter circuit. A circuit breaker of the Bussman variety could be used there and would replace both the switch and the fuse. There has been some suggestions that a circuit breaker should not be used as a switch, at least not one that is used often. If you aren't disconnecting power from the alternator often then the circuit breaker may be acceptable. But I would wait on confirmation of that from one of the eggheads on the forum.

 

[Whinny]

That charge controller only has 1 lug position for all the negative connections, using the buss bar is fine. I like that choice BTW-it's made for your exact installation. If you are going to parallel ground mounted panels be aware they have to have close specs to your roof mounted panel. Parallel is voltage spec. series is current? Please correct me if I got that mixed up again...happens often.

if you are going to put in an inverter one day you may wish to size your main fuse or breaker for it-they can be pricey to upgrade. What size inverter? I have no problem with a quality ANL or Mega fuse but now prefer Midnite solar/Carling type F high current dc breakers... they are rated as a full current switch-you wouldn't need the additional battery switch.

 

[HRTKD]

That charge controller only has 1 lug position for all the negative connections, using the buss bar is fine. I like that choice BTW-it's made for your exact installation. If you are going to parallel ground mounted panels be aware they have to have close specs to your roof mounted panel. Parallel is voltage spec. series is current? Please correct me if I got that mixed up again...happens often.

Thanks for the correction.

(I still think it's strange)

 

[Annie C]

I'm not familiar with your solar charge controller, but I think you have the wiring incorrect to it from the solar panel(s). Both the negative and the positive go to the solar charge controller. The negative from the panel does NOT go to the common bus bar.

I don't think an ANL fuse, immediately downstream of the battery, is appropriate. The general recommendation is to use a Class T fuse in that location. Another forum member reported that the ANL fuse in that location was getting very hot.

I don't know that a battery disconnect switch is necessary between the DC-DC and the starter circuit. A circuit breaker of the Bussman variety could be used there and would replace both the switch and the fuse. There has been some suggestions that a circuit breaker should not be used as a switch, at least not one that is used often. If you aren't disconnecting power from the alternator often then the circuit breaker may be acceptable. But I would wait on confirmation of that from one of the eggheads on the forum.

T vs ANL from house or start battery?

I added the disconnect for manual on/off in case I am in stop and go traffic to protect the Alternator and starter in the van.