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Installed renogy solar; waterproof 60amp fuse issue? Batteries not charging

JahneTheron said:
Here’s the way he attached to battery. One cable running straight to positive.
Click to expand...
If there is no negative wire going to the starter battery then we must look for one going to the frame, either from the negative busbar or from the dc2dc charger common.
JahneTheron said:
It comes out the bottom left of the solar charger - goes to a fuse then onto the positive of vans (lead acid battery?) Is this ok?
Click to expand...
We need to see the dc2dc charger terminals which means you need to remove the covers over the terminals.
 
The pictures you just attached are of the dc distribution panel and the positive busbar.
I want to see the ac distribution panel.
That will be powered by the inverter.

I also want to see how the inverter is connected to shore power.
 
I’ll take the covers off 12vlt DC input just need to get my impact
 

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Anyone now why there are 2 positive feeders on that fuse block?
Also anyone with decent eyesight please point out the issues you see in the pictures and especially the diagram.
 
Also I don't see a shunt anywhere.
Can you please take a picture of the house battery negative terminal and its proximity?
 
DIY sept.jpg
This is my view of what the system should look like, based on the sketch and pictures.
There may be the odd error.
I have shown fuses in the diagram, some could be replaced with quality circuit breakers. As yet cable sizes have not been indicated.
The DORK meter is basically a volt meter. This was wired direct to the main buss bars without a fuse, now shown on the accessory fuse box. There is no shunt and no current measurement.

Fuse F1 the main battery fuse is an ANL type. Although passable, a fuse with higher interrupt value would be preferred, (class T).
Fuse values, F1, 400 amps, main battery fuse,
F2, fuse or breaker feeding the accessory fuse box, estimate 50 amps,
F3, 400A fuse feeding the inverter,
F4, fuse or breaker, output of the DCC50, 70 amps

The picture showed a selection of 20 and 30 amp blade fuses in the accessory fuse box. These need to be replaced with a more appropriate fuse ( lower value) for the accessory.

The main high currents seem to be AWG4/0 that is OK
 
It appears that the inverter_charger chassis ground terminal has a wire connected to it.
Does that wire terminate on the negative busbar?
Is there a wire from the negative busbar to the frame?
If yes, what awg is it?

How many wires are coming from the pv panels?
If its 2 then they are un-grounded.
It its 3 then they are grounded.
 
John Frum said:
It appears that the inverter_charger chassis ground terminal has a wire connected to it.
Does that wire terminate on the negative busbar?
Is there a wire from the negative busbar to the frame?
If yes, what awg is it?

How many wires are coming from the pv panels?
If its 2 then they are un-grounded.
It its 3 then they are grounded.
Click to expand...
Does that wire terminate on the negative busbar? - yes, if you're looking straight at the round holes on front Invt charger, its the bottom left one (see diagram I drew out).

Is there a wire from the negative busbar to the frame? - There is a neg wire on Negative busbar going to body of van

If yes, what awg is it? -to the frame of van maybe a 12AWG ..

How many wires are coming from the pv panels? - 1x Red. 1x Black (from the roof)
If its 2 then they are un-grounded. - how to ground them?
It its 3 then they are grounded. - looks like 1x red, 1x black... ill double check snap pics that too
 
John Frum said:
q: what is at the other end of those ac cords?
Click to expand...
The AC cord for giving 24 vlt has a plug for using higher power products for short periods.

The other AC cord has a three-prong end to plug into Shore power at RV park or power while parking in someones drive
 
JahneTheron said:
Does that wire terminate on the negative busbar? - yes, if you're looking straight at the round holes on front Invt charger, its the bottom left one (see diagram I drew out).
Click to expand...
Ok good so the inverter charger case is bonded to the negative busbar.
JahneTheron said:
Is there a wire from the negative busbar to the frame? - There is a neg wire on Negative busbar going to body of van

If yes, what awg is it? -to the frame of van maybe a 12AWG ..
Click to expand...
That is not good.
The picture of the starting battery showed only a single wire which means the negative current should be going through the van chassis and that way undersized 12 awg chassis bond wire.
Makes me think that something does not tally.
JahneTheron said:
How many wires are coming from the pv panels? - 1x Red. 1x Black (from the roof)
If its 2 then they are un-grounded. - how to ground them?
It its 3 then they are grounded. - looks like 1x red, 1x black... ill double check snap pics that too
Click to expand...
Its fine if its not grounded.
Just means that you should have a double pole disconnect between the pv panels and the solar charge controller.
 
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JahneTheron said:
By AC you mean the shorepower plug wire and and the high power plug coming from DC to DC charger, Im not 100% sure but its thick. Id guess 5 AWG
Click to expand...
AC stands for alternating current.
I'm talking about the wires within the orange outer jacket.
The wire looks like a cheap extension cord, my best guess is the individual wires are 14 awg at best.
They should be 10 awg and there should be over current protection on the ac out circuit.
 
Last edited:
l00semarble said:
Are we not going to talk about the reversed polarity wiring on both AC in and out on inverter?

And that black electrical tape is a likely sign of covering up something that shouldn’t be there.
Click to expand...
Thanks for catching that.
 
There is so much substandard , incorrect and dangerous wiring in this instalation, along with with a total disregard òf best practice. Would it not be better for the OP to have a professional sort out the system?
Hopefully costs can be recovered from the organisation that attempted the original install
 
There is so much substandard , incorrect and dangerous wiring in this instalation, along with with a total disregard òf best practice. Would it not be better for the OP to have a professional sort out the system?
Hope fully costs can be recovered from the organisation that attempted the original install
 
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