diy solar

diy solar

Last fire.. :-(

Those BYD modules look nice. I've just seen them being advertised by FPV Power in australia via a facebook page. Price is about double what it would cost to build DIY from bare cells, which I think isn't bad. The bloke selling them says they are taken from cars which have been test driven or used as a demonstrator. Capacity and IR is claimed to be much like a new pack.

No affiliation, not even a customer, just thought it was interesting.
 
@fhorst without being able to see details of the crimp type and wire used due to low resolution, it hard to be sure but would appear they are the common red crimp connectors and some sort of telecom wire, can you elaborate on what was used?
 
Don’t feel too bad about the fire. A few Aussies have just set fire to a multimillion dollar Tesla Megabattery. Probably have no idea why either, although their story will be interesting.
 
Don’t feel too bad about the fire. A few Aussies have just set fire to a multimillion dollar Tesla Megabattery. Probably have no idea why either, although their story will be interesting.
Got any info?
 
I fear this may be part of where your packs went wrong. yes, that is 3 BMS. it is highly important that every cell is managed and that you know what every cell is doing. if you start adding parallel then series, it is doubly important to know what each parallel set of cells is doing. furthermore, yes it is more BMS but it is also redundancy. If a battery malfunctions, it can be removed from the system, but the other battery or batteries can keep the system running even if at a reduced capacity. Repairs can be made offline and the battery returned to service when it is safe to do so. This reduces risk of fire.
Look.
There is no way we will find out what caused the fire.
He does not have detailed images.
No amount of guesswork is going to get a solution.
We weren't there, and he feels everything was safe.
Let us all move on please.
 
Look.
There is no way we will find out what caused the fire.
He does not have detailed images.
No amount of guesswork is going to get a solution.
We weren't there, and he feels everything was safe.
Let us all move on please.


I think it is better for all of us if we investigate ALL DIY battery fires/misbehaviour.
- We learn from that. Can give better advice for new users and installations.
- Every user learns from that.
- Even who made the mistake learns from that.

So I personally would appreciate if there is any LFP battery malfunction then we start an online investigation (if the user is cooperative in the case)

If we do not do that then people will fear the technology.
 
A few pictures on how I make my crimps and connection.

In previous picture I already showed what's under the shrink wrap, 2 soldered wires

The temperature sensor, your standards pinhead, soldered to UTP Cat6, protected each leg with Shrink-wrap (no bare metal visual)

Other end of the twisted UTP cable, same red/black terminal cable, again with shrink wrap.


2021-7-30 18-56-27.jpg2021-7-30 18-57-20.jpg2021-7-30 18-57-33.jpg2021-7-30 18-57-36.jpg2021-7-30 18-57-11.jpg
 
Details about the wire:
2021-7-30 19-18-36.jpg2021-7-30 19-14-59.jpg2021-7-30 19-18-47.jpg

Location for the connectors:
Blue temperature
Yellow + and -
IMG_20210730_192330.jpg
End of the wire, you have seen:
2021-7-30 18-57-36.jpg
And the beginning, the lug, picture little higher.

So yeah, I'm proud of them.

I can't see anything wrong with it, nothing open, nothing over terminals that would not be able to deal with the voltage and current.

Utp cables never touched 2 terminals.

Took months to obtain the high quality wire, lugs where available "local" online.
The wires took 6 weeks to arrive.

Thailand, not like USA or Europe.
Unobtainable is a real thing.
 
IMG_20210730_195446.jpg
This is how one strand of wires (+/- and temperature sensor) goes straight up between 2 cells, a layer higher.

IMG_20210730_195415.jpg

Best high resolution picture I have isn't sharp. For people who like to study:

IMG_20210714_130513.jpg

Straight line up, not touching terminals that could be anywhere dangerous, nicely bundled together before it get higher.
And bundled at the top.

Website makes the 3.5mb to 800kb.
I'll try to upload as zip file

FIY, internet is slow here.
Uploading this pictures here, took 80 minutes.
Incert directly doesn't work, parcing error.
Attach files and then insert picture does work.

Thai system of internet.
YouTube, Netflix, Facebook or tiktok kind of crap goes fast enough to use.
Uploading 0.5 mb to a website....
You better think twice, or have a lot of spare time on your hands :)
 
Last edited:
OK lets investigate :)
Here is a (not so small) questionnaire that is a base to analyse the battery failure and to point out potential problems:


- Cell compression, method? In your case cells compressed with wood plates and rods. All in standing position. Very good.
- Cells setup? In your case you did a 2p4s. And you wrote 48V so you have to make a 4s from that (can not see what connects them in the pics). So it is a 2p4s4s system. Really not ideal but can work. BMS only saw the average V of two cells. (possible cell overcharge and overdischarge without BMS interaction)
- Temperature sensors, BMS placement? I can not see in pics what goes where. Cable management needed. Where is the 16s BMS? I see something (BMS, balancer?) on top of the cells :eek:. Very bad placement. And it is connected to 4 cells. It cant be right if your setup is a 48V system. You should use a single 16s BMS and/or balancer, and not 4 times 4s.
- Next (top) level cells seem to be too close. I would leave at least 15cm (6 inch) air gap (with more even easier the maintenance). Is there a floor bellow the top cells? The cells sometimes release a bit of electrolyte (not really in upstanding position but better safe than sorry).
- Did you do a proper top balance of the cells ? What were your procedures, how did you do it ?
- Copper busbars on alu terminals. Rusty busbars. That is not ideal at all. Did you use noalox or carbon grease ? Terminals and busbars polished ?
- What was charging the battery ? MPPT or PWM solar charge controller or an utility charger? Size, Type, connected solar panels number, Voc, Vmppt, Amppt ? Charging settings (bulk V, absorption V, float V, max charging current) ?
- What was discharging the battery ? Inverter (size, type?), direct load ? Max discharging current/watt estimate ?
- Cells electric separation? Standing on a non conductive base? Non conductive separator between the cells ?
- Cells placement? Shed, garage, inside/outside? On the ground, on shelves, ... ? How protected from fauna (rodents, bugs) and flora ?
- Ambient temperature? Cells and busbars temperature in high load/charge (hand test not warm is OK) ? Any extra cooling like fans ?
- Humidity? Pipes near the battery, MPPT, inverter? Possible water, steam or condensation in the area?
- Cable size/type to BMS and after that? Fuse after BMS, size?
- Usage of the battery? Constantly charging, lot of time on max charge (SoC >95%)? Lot of time in minimal charge (SoC<10%)?
- Where the battery floated? So SoC >95% and float V > 3,4-3,45V/cell ?
- BMS which type, how many A? BMS still working ? Cell Volts in BMS the same as by measured with a multimeter?
- schematic diagram of your system would be appreciated.
 
OK lets investigate :)
Here is a (not so small) questionnaire that is a base to analyse the battery failure and to point out potential problems:


- Cell compression, method? In your case cells compressed with wood plates and rods. All in standing position. Very good.
That's what I thought.
Yet... This probably is the cause of the problem.

As my 152ah cells where slightly bloated, they also received the same compression the 280 did, and probably, 10 cells (4* 280, 6 152) in a row is too much.
My best guess is that the delamination that occurred during several months with charge/ discharge and expansion of the other cells, compression the ones that are slightly bloated...
Made one go self discharge.

- Cells setup? In your case you did a 2p4s.
S16, 5 strings.
And you wrote 48V so you have to make a 4s from that (can not see what connects them in the pics). So it is a 2p4s4s system. Really not ideal but can work. BMS only saw the average V of two cells. (possible cell overcharge and overdischarge without BMS interaction)
2* S16, (one 280, one 152Ah on the bottom layer + "S8" half of S16,spilt over 2 Layers, connect with 35mm2 cable and lugs.

Second layer, Bus-bars yet placed.
S*S15, again one 280Ah, one 152Ah.
All 5 X S16 join the same backbone bus-bar.

Each cell has its own (or was supposed to get its own) cell PCB.
DIYBMS cell unit is "stand alone" for set Balance level, even without the controller unit, they still start to discharge at the set level.
(For me 3.65v)
IMG_20210730_192330.jpg
That's right, 80 modules who are in series, not to measure, each unit does this individual, but to communicate with the controller.

And yes, also 5 controller boards.

- Temperature sensors, BMS placement?
Temperature sensor I placed on the positive terminal.
I could have chosen negatieve, or on the bus-bar.
Last one was more challenging then I expected, so Shrink-wrap around the terminal, with inside shrink wrapped thermal sensor.
It doesn't need to be really accurate.
What it does need to tell per cell (how many BMS have per cell temperature sensors??)
If the bus-bar/terminal contact is warmer then that of the other contacts, possible warning for a failure.

This might be new to some people, but a bad contact, what can happen due numerous reasons even after months, is first shown by increased heat during high charge or discharge.
Soon later by strange voltage readings.

I can not see in pics what goes where. Cable management needed. Where is the 16s BMS? I see something (BMS, balancer?) on top of the cells :eek:.
Lol
Yah, temporary, during installation of all the wires, the active balancer. (with metal casing!!!) Was laying on top of thick plastic, on top of the grubscrews.
Later that day, mounted at the wall, where you can see on other pictures a white square print...
So, not for long :)

Very bad placement. And it is connected to 4 cells.
It's connected to the lower layer 280Ah cells
Second active balancer was laying in front on the floor, for the 152Ah cells.
2021-7-30 22-43-41.jpg
You can see on. One the smoke damage.
It cant be right if your setup is a 48V system. You should use a single 16s BMS and/or balancer, and not 4 times 4s.
BMS: not installed yet.
While for some people this is "the worse thing anyone can do", the cells in use where "24/7" monitored.
Screenshot_20210531_140854_com.jktech.bms.jpg
Now I could have chosen a picture where the cells are nicely sitting at 3.300v with 0.001v difference.
If that makes people happy... I. An share also.
I have about a few hundred of screenshots.
This one is during top balancing.

And for the few who have insight in top balance voltages, will agree, this is a really nicely balanced pack :)

The Bluetooth active balancer is perfect battery management system.
Only thing it can not to is disconnect.
Lucky that is something a human still can do
Stop charge or discharge :)

- Next (top) level cells seem to be too close. I would leave at least 15cm (6 inch) air gap (with more even easier the maintenance). Is there a floor bellow the top cells? The cells sometimes release a bit of electrolyte (not really in upstanding position but better safe than sorry).
5 cm more, perhaps. It would not have stopped the fire, but would have extended the BMS wires with 5cm.

30cm space between the layers would have worked, enough room to do maintenance on BMS cell PCB if needed, so no extension.

But... I choose different.
More compact.

For airflow it's enough.
Cells where lifted 1/2 inch of the floor, air circulation for sure efficient.

- Did you do a proper top balance of the cells ? What were your procedures, how did you do it ?
Answer already given, regular basis.
With the BMS.

Before installation?
Absolutely.
Charge each individual cell up to 3.65v.
That was done by placing them in sets of 4, with BMS, using a car battery.
As soon any reached 3.6v, I disconnect the set, and manually charged each up to 3.65v.

As you understand, that took several weeks, and in that period the cells who where automatically reducing the voltage where topped up.

At the end all cells where "one large string" (some zigzag) in parallel, connect with Bus-bars and cables, and charged to 3.65, each cell, and kept like this for a few days.

Each cell during placement was 3.65v.

None of those cells made the fire.
They did not have Bus-bars yet ..

The lower layer was started in the same way.

As the idea was to connect all 5, understandable that I was keeping the cells at top, as much as possible.

Yet... Rain season, no sun.
The inverter is set to stop at 48v.
2.9-3.0 per cell
About an hour before the fire I checked, and that was the voltage.

- Copper busbars on alu terminals. Rusty busbars.
I don't see where you think you see rusty bus-bar.
They are all electroplated thick copper bus-bars.

You can find my thread about it on this forum.

I obtained ox-guard, special order from the states, $45,- and 6 weeks.
2021-7-30 22-59-18.jpg

Terminal was scrubbed, cleaned with acetone, and ox-guard applied.
Same for the tin plated Bus-bars, Time between cleaning and mounting the bus-bar with 3.5-4Nm torque, less then 2 minutes
- What was charging the battery ?
early morning during rain season, 300-400 watt charging.
43 panels, 27* 325w, 16* 345v
3 X hybrid Revo II inverter
At that time..
About 100 watt charge each.
07.30, clouds, light rain.

- What was discharging the battery ? Inverter (size, type?), direct load ? Max discharging current/watt estimate ?
3 X 3.2kw inverter, each charge 100w
- Cells electric separation? Standing on a non conductive base? Non conductive separator between the cells ?
Pained iron for the 280, who each have plastic sheet on bottom and naturally all cells have their blue wrap.
The 152 are same wide as the 280, more slim, and lower
They where raised with wood.

Besides this, no special separation between the cells.

I have seen that Eve does this, yellow sheets between the cells.
I've never seen Will Prowse or David Potzz do this.
Perhaps it's needed, I don't know.

- Cells placement? Shed, garage, inside/outside? On the ground, on shelves, ... ? How protected from fauna (rodents, bugs) and flora ?
Inside our bedroom!
Or actually, a walk in closet, cooled by the airconditioning from our bedroom.

We have over 40 cats..
(Different story) we still occasional see mouse droppings in out room, bathroom, kitchen etc.

Gecko's, snakes, scorpions, ants, beetels, and many mosquito...
(+ A lot of spiders) not to forget the frogs..
Screenshot_20210730_231959.jpg
Few days ago.. this one on the bed...
Scary!!


- Ambient temperature?
25-28 degrees, Aircon.
- Cable size
35mm2., Breakers.

- Usage of the battery?
24/7 off grid setup.
Only stopped at 48v if it's too low.
And 10% is a high safety margin.

- Where the battery floated? So SoC >95% and float V > 3,4-3,45V/cell ?
DIYBMS, not yet installed.
Cell Volts in BMS a multimeter?
Yes, absolutely.
- schematic diagram o
I will try to make tomorrow.
 
Being loose sets, each set is potential a risk.
BMS fail more often then cells do.
A lot more.

Especially the higher capacity ones.
20-50A, dumb BMS, they last ages
Above 100A?
Follow the forum a while.
I have 3 on my name.
One died in 3 days. Jikong pre-mature launch.
One after 3 months dumb Daly, and hell Froze over before that warranty was honoured.
Third one didn't start at all (Smart Daly), and I did not start the fight as I have more important things to do with my limited energy.

So just shifting the risk to a part that fails more...

JBD sells 120A BMS and I think lots of people, including me, are having good experience with few failures. Daly high amp BMS are sad joke to exploit early DIY people who think red = fast.

i too can’t find the safety features i want off the shelf so i too feel forced into DIYBMS.


eventually i just accepted that i’ll use a contactor and burn a could hundred watt hours a day to pay for the true ability to disconnect programmatically

mosfet can fail closed and contactors too, but less than mosfet by a lot
 
I needed to remove some text, too long :)
Both threads combined.

Now zzzz.

Time to sleep
One of the above pictures shows wire resistance. Some are over 100ohms higher than others… highest to lowest is 157ohms higher. what is that reading showing?
 
As my 152ah cells where slightly bloated, they also received the same compression the 280 did, and probably, 10 cells (4* 280, 6 152) in a row is too much.
My best guess is that the delamination that occurred during several months with charge/ discharge and expansion of the other cells, compression the ones that are slightly bloated...
Made one go self discharge.
OK first possible perpetrator is the slightly bloated cells. Cells bloat a bit when fully charged.
So it could be but cells do not go to thermal runaway without warning.
Internal resistance changes. Charging and discharging too fast.
BMS disconnects pack a lot of time because of it before cells goes to hell.

S16, 5 strings.
On top of the cells is a module and it is connected only to 4 cells 4s ?

All 5 X S16 join the same backbone bus-bar.

So if it was a 16s5p ? It had 5 BMS like 1-1 for all 5 parallel connected 16s ?


Each cell has its own (or was supposed to get its own) cell PCB.
That's right, 80 modules who are in series, not to measure, each unit does this individual, but to communicate with the controller.
And yes, also 5 controller boards.
This DIYBMS seems to me like a Batrium clone? It is a bit too much DIY for me. Not sure I would thrust my pack to that.
Was all 5 connected to relays to kill the discharge of the pack if one cell (pair) goes nuts? (like Chargery does)


Temperature sensor
Good :)

This might be new to some people, but a bad contact,
Soon later by strange voltage readings.

Yep strange V readings that make the BMS disconnect the pack. There are always signs before failure.


Yah, temporary, during installation of all the wires, the active balancer. (with metal casing!!!) Was laying on top of thick plastic, on top of the grubscrews.
I see 2 cables going out from + terminals and also 1 cable from - terminals ?
I really can not figure out what was if for?

BMS: not installed yet.
While for some people this is "the worse thing anyone can do", the cells in use where "24/7" monitored.

Yep, BMS not installed could be the second reason for the battery pack fault :)
The BMS would have disconnected the pack if a cell goes too high or low. You would have noticed the fault early.

View attachment 58195
Now I could have chosen a picture where the cells are nicely sitting at 3.300v with 0.001v difference.
This one is during top balancing.
Yep I use JK Heltec Active balancer and BMS too. That BMS is in the BYD pack you showed before.


First the cable resistances are waaaay over the map. From 105 to 262. That could mean bad cell or bad connection.

Second what do you mean with the last line "This is during top balancing" ?
Top Balance is done parallel. No BMS :)


And for the few who have insight in top balance voltages, will agree, this is a really nicely balanced pack :)

No it is not.
This is my pack before top balance. Just put them serial for a test. (cell 4 screw was not properly tightened, you can clearly see in the pic ... after a little push to the screw all resistances are alike ... also terminals not polished, original nikkel plated busbars and screws, no carbon grease):

BMS_1.jpg


The Bluetooth active balancer is perfect battery management system.
No. The Active Balancer is not a BMS. Only balances and does not protect the pack.


30cm space between the layers would have worked, enough room to do maintenance on BMS cell PCB if needed, so no extension.

Physically separating packs protect them from cascade fires. A separate metal case for all 16s packs and some space would saved most of your cells.
Also like Tesla does with the MegaPacks in case of a file: they went upwards. (as we see in the today Tesla Big Battery fire case)
So better not to put them on each other's tops. Or if you do then fire and heat resistant separation needed. And a route for the fire away from the packs.


With the BMS.

And that is the third possible reason for the pack fault. No proper top balance.

Cells have a charging V, a discharging V and a resting/relaxed V in any SoC.
With proper top balance you can have they charging and resting V equalized so they reach 100% SoC nearly the same time.
Even better if you do a 2-3 step top balance. Put all cells parallel and charge to
- 3,4-3,45V ... it will be a long time. If charging stops (low A) then
- 3,5-3,55V ... it will be much shorter. If charging stops (low A) then
- 3,6-3,65V ... it will be fast.
The reason is that with the 3,4-3,45V charge you do not float the full cells. It is close to the full cells relax V.

All the packs I saw that had a problem, always, every time ... the top balance was not properly done.


None of those cells made the fire.
They did not have Bus-bars yet ..
Do not really understand this part. Not connected cells caused the fire ?


The lower layer was started in the same way.

As the idea was to connect all 5, understandable that I was keeping the cells at top, as much as possible.
Not a good idea. If you store a cell it must be done at ca 60% Soc (it is on the cells manual).
Like on 3,3V (as you received it from the seller as we all did)
The cells don't like to be 100% charged. Even more I do not recommend to charge them over 95% ... ever.


Yet... Rain season, no sun.
So high humidity that can condensate on cold surfaces. A physical container would be a very good idea for the packs :) Like in marine applications.

The inverter is set to stop at 48v.
2.9-3.0 per cell
About an hour before the fire I checked, and that was the voltage.
So the cell causing the fire was connected.

I don't see where you think you see rusty bus-bar.
They are all electroplated thick copper bus-bars.

You can find my thread about it on this forum.

You did a lot of unnecessary DIY I would not do :)
Also I think thick aluminium busbars are better. No worry with the corrosion and the copper-alu reaction.

I obtained ox-guard, special order from the states, $45,- and 6 weeks.
Terminal was scrubbed, cleaned with acetone, and ox-guard applied.
Good :)

early morning during rain season, 300-400 watt charging.
43 panels, 27* 325w, 16* 345v
14 kWp solar, nice :)
3x 156Ah = 486 Ah ... lets be max 0,5C charging (for longer life) that is 243A. With 48V that 11 kW.
OK I do not think all 14kWp solar panels could produce on max so not too fast charging for LFP.
(not exactly sure how many battery strings was already in use)

3 X hybrid Revo II inverter

3 X 3.2kw inverter, each charge 100w
OK too high A charge it could not be :)

I do not know this inverter so I do not know how good it is. Some seems like Voltronic/MPP Solar or clone (donno)
The only thing it is important because how good it keeps the CC-CV charging. Too much charging or to big V spikes hurts battery.
Also no need to charge all up to 3,65. Enough 3,45-3,5V per cell. Already 95% SoC.

Pained iron for the 280, who each have plastic sheet on bottom and naturally all cells have their blue wrap.
They where raised with wood.

Besides this, no special separation between the cells.

I have seen that Eve does this, yellow sheets between the cells.
I've never seen Will Prowse or David Potzz do this.
Perhaps it's needed, I don't know.

Fourth possible reason for the pack's fault.
You can not thrust a thin blue wrap. It can be damaged, torn, stretched, ... by anything.
Also the bottom of the cells is not covered with it. And the cells body is not neutral (maybe +?).


Inside our bedroom!
Or actually, a walk in closet, cooled by the airconditioning from our bedroom.
That is good :) Lower humidity, lower Celsius.

Gecko's, snakes, scorpions, ants, beetels, and many mosquito...
(+ A lot of spiders) not to forget the frogs..
Few days ago.. this one on the bed...
Scary!!
Animals can do a lot of harm. Like little bugs too.
A bug dying between two cells. Charge comes cells bloat a bit smashing the bug. Its shield penetrates the two cells thin blue wrappings ...
Or on top of the cells causing short between terminals.
I would do a complete closed battery box with tipple mosquito nets on all openings ... and maybe ventilators. So nothing could get it

25-28 degrees, Aircon.
35mm2., Breakers.
35 mm2 from every battery string to the busbar I suppose ?
I will try to make tomorrow.
OK that would be helpful :)

Thanks I and wish good luck to your new battery pack :)
 
One of the above pictures shows wire resistance. Some are over 100ohms higher than others… highest to lowest is 157ohms higher. what is that reading showing?
This is the screenshot from the BYD Jikong active balancer BMS.

0.108-0.206 ohm
About 1 thenth of a ohm wire resistance higher.
This is with spot-welding to the bus-bar, who is laser welded to the terminal.

That my difference is 0.05 Ohm higher, no spot-weld.. not a problem :)

According to the BMS wire resistance.
This can be adjusted as it's correction factor of the cell voktage.
With it, slightly wrong readings.
We are talking here in the 0.00x volt range.

If an active balancer is a BMS, in my opinion yes it is.
Chargery BMS does monitor the voltage, balances the cells (only top balance) and gives a signal to stop or start contact.
It doesn't stop it start itself.

Is it a BMS? Sure
Just because I'm the one (human) who is adjusting charge/ discharge doesn't reduce the basic functions:
Monitor individual cell voltages
Adjust cell voltages that aren't the same.
Signal when action needs to be taken to prevent it stop over (dis) charge.

Is it the most ideal situation?
For sure not.
Is it a SAFE situation?
Where the top balance is usually stopped at 90% of SOC, only occasionally done to top.
And discharge stoped at 10%.

Where in-between the cells are constantly monitored and corrected, no cells out of whack.

Sure, more ideal to have it automatically.

I was working on that :)
Work in progress.
And till then, manually.

For those who try to say that I should not be using the system till all is finalized, they probably do not live off grid, with this as only viable power source.

I understand that it's difficult for many to understand 44c moist heat, and the need of cooling.
Turn it around.
-30.
You have only electric heater, no alterative available.
While you can survive, your productivity reduce till almost 0
And that's it... Only surviving.
While with the heater, even if it makes it just -10, you can start to breath more easy, relax more and be able to do simple things.

Perhaps you haven't experienced -30.
It's just as paralysing as +40
Dry heat makes it possible to cool a bit.
Moist.... steam bath, 10-12 hours a day, with no escape.
Cool water, 30-35c helps but you can't stay in there always.

Just saying, and keep saying it again.
With the circumstances, I did the best possible and always had safety in mind.
No "quick fix" or dubious contacts.
Never too thin wires, perhaps too thick.

Rating 4mm2, I use 6mm2 or 8.
I don't like wires getting warm.
While I know, 60c is perfectly safe and at higher temperature (+60 Vs +15c) the resistance of the wire decrease, making it capable of transport higher current without enounmous increase of temperature

Yet, any wire that got warm (+/- 45-50) during top load, I replaced with a step ticker, just to be safe.

As @curiouscarbon stated..
Daly isn't perfect some people like us to believe.
While @Will Prowse does show several installation and they all work great, it's not possible for him to test durability. 2-3 months with 75% of rated capacity as regular load.

And that's where many fail :-(
DYIBMS probably is the birthplace of the Batrium

As far as I can see, it's been around longer. And Stuart is doing a fantastic job.

Compared to the idea of accumulation voltage to reduce the number of wires, have a unit per cell to measure and individually. "Protect" (burn of top, at humongous capacity 0.8A without heatsink, 1.5A with, compared to Daly BMS, 0.08A without the controller, as all components might/will fail at some point.
While that doesn't stop the overcharge (when the controller would fail) it's not his job to prevent overcharge.
The solar charge controller should take care of that.
BMS is the emergency brake and airbag.
Not charge controller, emergency only.

I keep stressing this.
Not just for me to clear me of the "Blaim" that no BMS was installed, Charge controller is in charge.
If your BMS needs to act, the charge controller failed to do its job, OR cells are greatly imbalance.

As I have shown, and written at that time the voltage range was 2.9-3.0
Less then 0.1v difference between the cells.

No BMS would have done anything with this cell voltage.
Active balancer BMS would have tried to get the difference even smaller, to 0.01v
And my active balancer (without BMS function) did just that.

Ideal, nope.
Safe, sure.
Do I work due my illness slower then I like, absolutely.
Can I delegate this kind of work?
Perhaps if I hire someone from the states or Europe, or more risky BKK.
Local? No knowledge available.
Even the local government building have 2 bare twister wires (beyond reach of hands) as system to wire their main electricity and lights...
No joke.

What leaves me with the one alternative DIY :)


Screenshot_20210731_102540_com.jktech.bms.jpg
 
This is a not bloated cell, 280Ah
2021-7-31 12-6-18.jpg
Bottom protect standard
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Bloat tells sometimes there is a problem, not always..
2 not blaoted cells..
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Left one sounds like water when you shake it...
Quite sure defective :)

This is how all the 152Ah cells are slightly bloated.
Not due overcharge, but standard, without compression, this is what they do
2* Eve and 2* Lishen in the picture.
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From the side:
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More bloated, but still usable (no water sound when shaking)

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And sadly about half of the cells looked like that, without compression.

Bloated:
And not safe to use:2021-7-31 12-20-59.jpg

Im going to make a few wires is used on the cells, lay the cells flat and show how the wires where made, and made safe.

This will take about an hour to prepare and half hour to upload.
 

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I DIY a lot of stuff, I am currently installing my whole system mostly by myself or with one friend helping.
I don't want to get Negative about any of this but I will say one thing. Even though I am using expensive batteries and an expensive inverter I still don't trust any of it to be in my house. The very first thing I had built was a concrete electrical room 6ft from the side of house to make sure if there is a fire it is limited to whats in that room and not my whole house! I am not a Mason Man, so that part of the Job I had to farm out.

There is nothing wrong with DIY battery packs or buying low end batteries but for Gods sake keep them in a fire proof room.
 
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