Mounting System for water tight design

[ClevelandCo440]

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!!!

I am working on a system design however there are a few areas I was hoping I could get some input.

What company has the best mounting system for mounting solar panels in a water tight configuration to a wood structure? Need suggestions.
The solar panels will be the water tight roof surface.

Also, any recommendations for engineers or solar consultants in Ohio?

Thank you again!!!

 

[wpns]

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!!!

I am working on a system design however there are a few areas I was hoping I could get some input.

What company has the best mounting system for mounting solar panels in a water tight configuration to a wood structure? Need suggestions.
The solar panels will be the water tight roof surface.

Also, any recommendations for engineers or solar consultants in Ohio?

Thank you again!!!

Not really a thing to make the panels be the roofing material. At the very least repairs are going to be a nightmare.

 

[OzSolar]

Roofs are roofs. Solar panels are solar panels. Narry the two should meet.

Solar panels as waterproof roofs have a bright future.... and they always will.

 

[ClevelandCo440]

Something like this photo... we found Solar Canopy offers a "no Gap" mounting system. Just wondering if anyone has other recommendations.

 

[jpwhit]

Something like this photo... we found Solar Canopy offers a "no Gap" mounting system. Just wondering if anyone has other recommendations.

No gap mounting system doesn't typically mean waterproof. It's more of an appearance thing... Water will still leak between the panels. I've never seen a mounting system for solar panels that is completely waterproof. It would likely involve sealant between the panels. As other have mentioned, that would be result in a maintenance nightmare.

 

[rhino]

You can search for "PV panel seal strip" on alibaba/aliexpress and use it for an outdoor structure like a pergola but still wouldn't rely on that being a long lasting waterproof roof.

 

[mciholas]

In theory, this could work.

You need something that fills the gap between panels, a long lasting rubber strip like this:



You will need to mount the panel using the back flange to leave the top surface unobstructed.

That will get you a sealed row. For multiple rows, you need the panels to be tilted and the upper row to overhang the lower row by some amount, or you need a flashing setup to effectively do the same thing.

At the upper edge, you need a flashing from any wall or ridge cap if you are going down the other side.

Gable ends will need a flashing.

At the lower edge, a drip cap flashing would probably be wise.

For serving any given panel, you have to pull the gap seal, then release from underside on the rear flange mounts, and then slide it downhill slightly to get out from under the upper row or flashing.

It could work, but will take care and diligence to make satisfactory. You may lose a bit of performance with the panel and flashing overlaps covering some of the active area.

Mike C.

 

[jpwhit]

In theory, this could work.

You need something that fills the gap between panels, a long lasting rubber strip like this:

View attachment 229122

You will need to mount the panel using the back flange to leave the top surface unobstructed.

That will get you a sealed row. For multiple rows, you need the panels to be tilted and the upper row to overhang the lower row by some amount, or you need a flashing setup to effectively do the same thing.

At the upper edge, you need a flashing from any wall or ridge cap if you are going down the other side.

Gable ends will need a flashing.

At the lower edge, a drip cap flashing would probably be wise.

For serving any given panel, you have to pull the gap seal, then release from underside on the rear flange mounts, and then slide it downhill slightly to get out from under the upper row or flashing.

It could work, but will take care and diligence to make satisfactory. You may lose a bit of performance with the panel and flashing overlaps covering some of the active area.

Mike C.

You're making an assumption that the junction between the solar panel frame and the raw panel is a waterproof junction. And it may be, or may be for a while until there is thermal expansion and contraction between the two, or may be for some brands and not other brands. The main point being this is not something the specifications for the panels makes claims about one way or the other.

Also overlapping the panels some along a whole edge or tilting them some, if that creates a line of shading along the whole edge of a panel, will absolutely kill the output of the panels.

 

[OzSolar]

Something like this photo... we found Solar Canopy offers a "no Gap" mounting system. Just wondering if anyone has other recommendations.

View attachment 229044

Looks like they start off by butting the panels together.

Without a gap there's a high risk shattering panels when they expand and contract with temperatures. I've seen it.

 

[ClevelandCo440]

Looks like they start off by butting the panels together.

Without a gap there's a high risk shattering panels when they expand and contract with temperatures. I've seen it.

Thanks for the information. We agree and have been researching. We were looking at the water seal gasket to put in between panels. Do you have any experience or thoughts on that? We found the one from Renvu and they seam to have a few different sizes. Any suggestions or experience would help! Thank you!

 

[ClevelandCo440]

In theory, this could work.

You need something that fills the gap between panels, a long lasting rubber strip like this:

View attachment 229122

You will need to mount the panel using the back flange to leave the top surface unobstructed.

That will get you a sealed row. For multiple rows, you need the panels to be tilted and the upper row to overhang the lower row by some amount, or you need a flashing setup to effectively do the same thing.

At the upper edge, you need a flashing from any wall or ridge cap if you are going down the other side.

Gable ends will need a flashing.

At the lower edge, a drip cap flashing would probably be wise.

For serving any given panel, you have to pull the gap seal, then release from underside on the rear flange mounts, and then slide it downhill slightly to get out from under the upper row or flashing.

It could work, but will take care and diligence to make satisfactory. You may lose a bit of performance with the panel and flashing overlaps covering some of the active area.

Mike C.

Thanks, great information!

 

[Dadoftheturkeykids]

I don't know of any off the shelf type designs, but I've pondered this myself as well.

Instead of trying to "seal" each panel to the next, perhaps a water collection system could work. I envision a "gutter" type collection trough underneath and between each panel. I have had thoughts to prototype this idea, just never got around to it.

 

[ClevelandCo440]

I don't know of any off the shelf type designs, but I've pondered this myself as well.

Instead of trying to "seal" each panel to the next, perhaps a water collection system could work. I envision a "gutter" type collection trough underneath and between each panel. I have had thoughts to prototype this idea, just never got around to it.

Thank you... food for thought. We like the t-strip seals in between and a tight mounting system with just enough space for expansion and contraction.