Norcold 4 door. 2 freezer compartments with ice maker and two refrigerator compartments. 1200 model.What kind of fridge??
Norcold 4 door. 2 freezer compartments with ice maker and two refrigerator compartments. 1200 model.What kind of fridge??
They have both. Absorption and compressor.these look like replacement adsorption refrigeration units, not at all like what I am using.
That's check number 3 in the compressor fridge category! I'm going to see what I can work out with my installer. Thanks for your insights!If I was to do it again I would just replace it with a standard fridge to get the extra space. About 2 cubit feet of extra space. If you can find an inverter refrigerator it will lower your energy level even more.
If I may add. Get rid of the 12 volt converter as soon as you can.
But you have 3kW of AZ high desert PV and 23.3kWh of battery?! 75% of your system is still way more than 100% of mine. ...which I will never achieve...Respectfully disagree. Left my converters and 12V systems completely intact for a secondary backup. So what if my 12V loads are only 75% efficient. They're a tiny fraction of my consumption.
But you have 3kW of AZ high desert PV and 23.3kWh of battery?! 75% of your system is still way more than 100% of mine. ...which I will never achieve...
The Hvac 120V unit uses about 25% less power than the absorption unit uses on the electric setting. Power usage: 3 amps at 120V (360 watts).Well, it says "compressor" https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/dometic-120v-hvac-cooling-unit/ but who knows until you have your hands on it. The website does say they'll mail it to you so you can install it yourself. After I cross reference my fridge model to the right compressor, I may think about that option...
The Hvac 120V unit uses about 25% less power than the absorption unit uses on the electric setting. Power usage: 3 amps at 120V (360 watts).
Not really saving much
Now that's an idea I haven't thought of before. I have got the real estate upstairs for a couple more panels. The camper even has a port for a panel to charge the battery. I suppose I could pick up a panel at Harbor Freight. I'll look into that option as well. Thanks!Just wanted to jump in to say that I have a relatively inexpensive dc compressor fridge. 1.3 cu ft, Ausranvik(I think they're no longer around) but it runs great. It has not been turned off in years. Keeps milk good even in my 100 dg F plus yurt, or even in the front of my van on road trips. It recently had to run off an isolated 280 ah battery, and it ran for a week while the van was broke down in summer heat. I can't find more precise notes on power draw. I think it is roughly 60 watts while running, and runs for about ten minutes, depending on outside temps, of course. It never fails to keep temp, even if it may have to run longer.
I, too, am considering getting a second unit, because this one can achieve and maintain temps cold enough to keep ice cream, and I needs my ice cream and I could use another two or three cu ft:/ As to your twelve volt conversion issue, why not install a second solar panel system for the 12v circuits? 200 watts pv would really help out.
I just read your post to my wife and commented that before we moved into the camper, we too had an LG fridge with a linear compressor. We bought it used and had it until we moved out. She said "that makes sense because our electric bill went down after we got the new fridge." Way to go LG. I wonder if I can find a smaller fridge with a linear compressor. Thanks for the reminder!I had a 43’ house boat and I had a 12 year old medium/small residential refrigerator/freezer onboard and two 8Ds and a GoPower puresine 3000 would power it for a week if. But I had to disable the defrost cycle with a switch I wired up and once back on shore power I’d turn it back on. Defrost was a watt monster. Currently, in my house I have a two year old full size LG refrigerator with a “linear“ compressor, what ever that is. I just checked on my Emporia app and it draws 9.8 Ah a day on average(confirmed by another app by an overall correlation). When it’s running it draws 48 watts with spikes about every 11 hours to 140 watts that’s probably a defrost cycle. Man they got efficient. Yeah I think I’d be dumping the Dometic.
For what it's worth:@Petenebraska please post a picture of the ac/dc distribution panel with the cover open so that we can see the breakers, fuses and corresponding maps.
Its a 50 amp rv with 2 air conditioners and 2 microwaves.For what it's worth:
Very close. Modifications were made:Its a 50 amp rv with 2 air conditioners and 2 microwaves.
The panel has 2 master breakers one for each leg of the 120/240VAC supply.
I'll be the first to say that I'm interested to know the details of the integration with the legacy system.
The 3rd picture in your original post shows shows an inverter/charger.
Is that the new EG4 or some legacy inverter/charger?
And that's the direction I'm leaning. Seems the most logical solution for the long term since we live in here full time. Thanks!The absorption process is driven by heat.
The efficiency of electric heat is only about one third at best as the same electric running a heat pump.
Your refrigerator is probably doing as well as it is supposed to using electric.
Absorption refrigertors should only be used when there is no source of electricity.
Now that you have a robust source of electric, consider upgrading yout frigde.