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My Dometic RV fridge is sucking my batteries dry and I can't determine why?!

Exactly my sentiments.

First off, an absorption fridge isn't meant to be run off a battery. It consumes way too much power. The fridge ac usage is meant for shore power. An absorption fridge operates sparingly off propane. That should be the primary energy source.

Per spec, the Dometic DM2862 consumes 440W ac power. No way should consumption be much higher than that. If it is, then something else is going on. Perhaps a measurement error or something like the converter being active and is causing an exorbitant load. But it's not the fridge. If the fridge was at room temperature prior to making the measurements then it will be at 100% duty cycle for a number of hours. Once it starts cycling power at perhaps 70% duty cycle, in 24 hours it should consume: 440W * 70% * 24 = 7.4 kWh. This data should have been known before starting the project!

How much power does the new fridge consume? Per spec, it has an energy consumption of 339. Not sure what that means. This article says a fridge like the new one consumes about 150 Ah in 24 hours. That's 1.8 kWh in 24 hours, or about 4 times more efficient on ac. It's still a lot of energy where long periods of clouds in the winter could run down the battery. That wouldn't be a problem with a propane fridge.
One of the things I said was if his RV Fridge senses AC power from the Inverter, then I might auto switch to AC instead of Propane. Most RV Fridge have a way to force them to stay on Propane.
I did check my LG Fridge in my Second house it's Model LSXS263365 /03 This house is off grid on solar and using a KWH meter that Fridge uses 1.2 KWH per 24 hour period and it's a full size fridge. It has a Liner Compressor. As a note if this LG Fridge losses power or power it dropping on and off a few times over the 24 hours it will keep going into defrost mode and use much more power.
 
I read the first two pages and then skipped ahead to the last page. I have a Dometic absorption refrigerator in my three season toy hauler. Until I installed a Victron 12/3000 this year I almost never used the AC option to run the fridge. Yeah, it sucks almost 400 watts. So I run it only during the day (with plenty of sun) on AC. A DC compressor fridge will be purchased when the 16 year old absorption fridge goes to that big junk yard in the sky. Otherwise, the absorption fridge is working OK.

I've camped in temperatures down to -8°F. The furnace is going a LOT in that case. But everything still worked. I've done a lot of work on the trailer to make it able to withstand such low temperatures, though it still has the OEM single paned (drafty) windows.

I retained a small 12v lead acid battery (the main house battery is LiFePO4) so that I could start the generator no matter what. That battery is isolated from the rest of the DC system. Because of that, I still have an AC-DC converter to charge the 12v lead acid battery when the generator is running. The 12v lead acid battery has its own solar panel and controller to keep it charged otherwise. This is a legacy part of the system and I'll eventually get around to replacing it with a DC-DC charger, but I'm in no hurry.
As far as heating the RV I love my Diesel Heater over the Propane furnace. The Diesel heater uses 4 watts of power when it's on low and cost 1/3 of the price of propane.
 
Good Gawd from Bloomfield!? If you wanted to pick a fight, couldn't you have just dropped some Mom jokes or something?? :ROFLMAO:

I understand what you're both saying about the legacy 12v system, it's just so clunky! I hate clunk! :rolleyes:

My next step is getting the new fridge installed, then reevaluate. If that solves the battery-suck issue, I'll leave everything else alone.

Thanks!

One day you might want to sell that RV to upgrade and keep all your 48 volt stuff, just another thought.
 
Diesel heater uses 4 watts of power when it's on low and cost 1/3 of the price of propane.
What region are you?

I did the math based on prices locally here in Vermont last week. Per BTU the diesel was only about ~12% less expensive after subtracting out for efficiency ratings for diesel heater versus propane RV furnace. (And then I sold the extra propane RV furnace LOL)
 
What region are you?

I did the math based on prices locally here in Vermont last week. Per BTU the diesel was only about ~12% less expensive after subtracting out for efficiency ratings for diesel heater versus propane RV furnace. (And then I sold the extra propane RV furnace LOL)

Propane varies wildly in our area.

It's $4.99 from retailers who I think are basically telling their customers take it or leave it.

You go outside of town a bit to the landscape supply and it's $1.99.
 
What region are you?

I did the math based on prices locally here in Vermont last week. Per BTU the diesel was only about ~12% less expensive after subtracting out for efficiency ratings for diesel heater versus propane RV furnace. (And then I sold the extra propane RV furnace LOL)
I'm in Alabama, I did a test in my shop this weekend using a 20 lb bottle that cost $20.00 to fill. It's not an exact test but pretty close Sat I ran the diesel heater it used about 1.25 gal for 24 hours the next day very similar temps it used the 20 lb bottle. On both day's the temps was 55 deg in the shop, outside temps at night were about 13 deg and the day didn't go above freezing. Diesel in my area is running about $4.80 per gal.
I also used an 8 foot pip on the heater exhaust to get a little bit more heat out of it. My findings were consistent with what I was finding on Youtube. I wouldn't run burnt motor oil in them though, maybe used hydraulic fluid mixed with diesel.
I also have a cabin cruiser boat and plan on installing a diesel heater in it, propane is just too dangerous in a closed boat. Check out the Chinese diesel heaters they are very efficient.
 
I'm in Alabama, I did a test in my shop this weekend using a 20 lb bottle that cost $20.00 to fill. It's not an exact test but pretty close Sat I ran the diesel heater it used about 1.25 gal for 24 hours the next day very similar temps it used the 20 lb bottle. On both day's the temps was 55 deg in the shop, outside temps at night were about 13 deg and the day didn't go above freezing. Diesel in my area is running about $4.80 per gal.
I also used an 8 foot pip on the heater exhaust to get a little bit more heat out of it. My findings were consistent with what I was finding on Youtube. I wouldn't run burnt motor oil in them though, maybe used hydraulic fluid mixed with diesel.
I also have a cabin cruiser boat and plan on installing a diesel heater in it, propane is just too dangerous in a closed boat. Check out the Chinese diesel heaters they are very efficient.
Cost of diesel heater use compared to lp use in a recreational vehicle is dependent upon market conditions and the efficiency of your specific unit. We use diesel heaters in our travel trailer and lp was much cheaper to run in NY before thanksgiving as locally I could fill a 20 pound tank for $10 and diesel was $6 a gallon. Now that we are wintering in Texas diesel is $4 a gallon and the only convenient lp is $3.79 a gallon. The diesel heaters apper to be very efficient when fired low but are gradually less efficient the hotter they are fired. Lp heaters vary fro %60 to nearly %100 efficient
 
My findings were consistent with what I was finding on Youtube
did a test in my shop this weekend using a 20 lb bottle that cost $20.00 to fill. It's not an exact test but pretty close Sat I ran the diesel heater it used about 1.25 gal for 24 hours the next day very similar temps it used the 20 lb bottle. On both day's the temps was 55 deg in the shop, outside temps at night were about 13 deg
That can’t be a scientifically sound empirical test. I gotta do the math.

Propane is 92,000 BTUs/gallon
Heating oil is 137,000 BTUs/gallon

There’s 4.4 gallons in a 20lbs cylinder. Or $4.50/gallon.
Your diesel is $4.40/gallon.
There’s 50% more heat in a gallon of diesel.
That’s 66% less expensive than propane.
and cost 1/3 of the price of propane
It’s 2/3 the cost per BTUs of propane, not 1/3 the cost of propane.
diesel heaters apper to be very efficient when fired low but are gradually less efficient the hotter they are fired.
I’m not sure you’re referring to efficiency or consumption. Higher consumption doesn’t necessarily mean things are less efficient. Just that more heat is being made.
Lp heaters vary fro %60 to nearly %100 efficient
I don’t think there are any honest efficiency ratings for vented propane heaters above 94%. The nameplate efficiency for those that claim higher do not factor the kWh of the powered venting and circulator(s) required to extract that much heat.

Many RV furnaces and vented but unpowered propane heating appliances are 60% efficiency range and most modern hydronic furnaces are 91-94%.
Check out the Chinese diesel heaters they are very efficient
85% efficiency.
20 lb bottle that cost $20.00 to fill. It's not an exact test but pretty close Sat I ran the diesel heater it used about 1.25 gal for 24 hours the next day very similar temps it used the 20 lb bottle. On both day's the temps was 55 deg in the shop, outside temps at night were about 13 deg and the day didn't go above freezing. Diesel in my area is running about $4.80 per gal.
I don’t know what propane heater you are using but that sounds like a very inefficient heater.
not an exact test but pretty close”
It’s not close at all except in your circumstances.
I know I probably sound argumentative or difficult but I don’t mean to be. I just want to make the point that cost per gallon, and cost per time period, should not be used to make efficiency statements because the other factors in each circumstance determine the efficacy (efficacy not efficiency) of fuel used and the specific appliance it is used with- all else being equal.

If you have an infrared heat ‘thermometer gun’ you can probably make a wildhat observation of efficiency changes with a diesel heater at various output temperatures. You may or do theoretically lose a small percentage of efficiency at higher heat volume settings because the air movement over the aluminum heat exchanger canister is only able to receive so much heat per volume; the output will become hotter but only due to more BTUs in the burn chamber- which of course will raise the combustion gasses’ temperature. But I’m not certain that equates to a significant change in overall efficiency by percentage.
 
’m not sure you’re referring to efficiency or consumption. Higher consumption doesn’t necessarily mean things are less efficient. Just that more heat is being made.
I found a noticeable reduction in fuel consumption running 2 diesel heaters at 1/2 throttle compared to running one full blast fighting the same outside temperature with the same inside temperature. The exhaust temps get extremely hot at full bore.
 
I don’t think there are any honest efficiency ratings for vented propane heaters above 94%. The nameplate efficiency for those that claim higher do not factor the kWh of the powered venting and circulator(s) required to extract that much heat.

Many RV furnaces and vented but unpowered propane heating appliances are 60% efficiency range and most modern hydronic furnaces are 91-94%.
You are correct. I was including non vented lp heaters in the mix. My travel trailer furnace can’t be much better than %60
 
How do the diesel heaters fare when the temperatures go below 32°F? Or are you using diesel #1 all the time?
I rerouted the incoming line so that the fuel lines, pump and filter could all be in a heated space. Otherwise when the fuel begins to thicken you will loose your fuel supply. (20 degrees for untreated #2 “) I used kerosene for the testing I did at -30. Combustion and heat output seems to be unaffected at any temperature as long as you can keep the fuel flowing.
 
Run the exhaust through a heat exchanger then blow the heat into the space as well.
 
My Dometic pulls 325 Watts which, when including invertor losses, will use about 7% of my 5.12kW 48V battery's capacity per hour. To prolong battery life, I cycle between a 91% and 20% state of charge which means about only 70% of my battery's capacity is available. Given those numbers, the Dometic in AC mode will drain my battery in 10 hours.

Given the above, I only run in AC mode when I'm generating surplus from my panels and am confident that my batteries will be fully charged at sundown. Otherwise I run in propane mode.
 
My Dometic pulls 325 Watts which, when including invertor losses, will use about 7% of my 5.12kW 48V battery's capacity per hour. To prolong battery life, I cycle between a 91% and 20% state of charge which means about only 70% of my battery's capacity is available. Given those numbers, the Dometic in AC mode will drain my battery in 10 hours.

Given the above, I only run in AC mode when I'm generating surplus from my panels and am confident that my batteries will be fully charged at sundown. Otherwise I run in propane mode.

Back when I had less battery capacity, I installed a wifi smart plug into the AC socket for the fridge. It turned on about an hour after sunrise and off an hour before sunset. In auto mode, it would fall back to propane.

I still have it installed, but I pretty much leave it on all the time as the fridge only uses 20-25% of my battery capacity in 24 hours. This time of year with very chilly temps (we're only there a couple weekends a month), it doesn't cycle on very much.
 
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Back when I had less battery capacity, I installed a wifi smart plug into the AC socket for the fridge. It turned on about an hour after sunrise and off an hour before sunset. In auto mode, it would fall back to propane.

I still have it installed, but I pretty much leave it on all the time as the fridge only uses 20-25% of my battery capacity in 24 hours. This time of year with very chilly temps (we're only there a couple weekends a month), it doesn't cycle on very much.
Great idea! I'm going to have to do this.
 
Back when I had less battery capacity, I installed a wifi smart plug into the AC socket for the fridge. It turned on about an hour after sunrise and off an hour before sunset. In auto mode, it would fall back to propane.
Is your fridge holding good temp in AC? My Norcold 10xx is very poor in AC mode. Propane, it's incredibly stable. AC. it varies as much as 15F.
 
Sounds like your absorption fridge is running on electric only mode.
I've heard they burn tons of energy in electric mode and are far less efficient than a residential fridge with a compressor.
When your RV frig is running on 110v, it uses a heating coil for heating the gases.
 
Is your fridge holding good temp in AC? My Norcold 10xx is very poor in AC mode. Propane, it's incredibly stable. AC. it varies as much as 15F.

Pretty much, but we're off site most of the time, so the fridge doesn't get opened. It's in a slide out, so it's marginal even on LP.

I installed 24/7 fans forcing air up the chimney, and that seemed to help a little.
 
Pretty much, but we're off site most of the time, so the fridge doesn't get opened. It's in a slide out, so it's marginal even on LP.

I installed 24/7 fans forcing air up the chimney, and that seemed to help a little.
I have one of those little fans inside the fridge. It also helps a lot.
 
I have the fan from my Dometic 1350 that works great moving air and fins never froze. 25 bucks and shipping if anyone could use.
 

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