diy solar

diy solar

My first-ever Power Station Build

AF_Bob

New Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2023
Messages
45
Location
Georgia
A special thanks to everyone who responded and helped with my first Power Station project. A special thanks to Rocketman for convincing me to buy a SmartShunt and answering my many questions.

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • 24V LIFEPO4 System
  • 2,560 Watt-Hour capacity (each battery 12.8V 100Amps; 2 in series)
  • 24V 2,000-Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter
  • Bluetooth SmartShunt Mid-Point monitor for batteries in series
  • Bluetooth 100V 15A solar charge controller (communicates with SmartShunt) provides ~400 watts solar
  • DC 24V to 12V 20Amp converter for 12V cigarette receptacle, box fans, fast charge USB ports *See Note below
  • Built into a RIGID 2.0 toolbox with attachable wheels/handle
  • Solar charged by 4 Ecoflow Monocrystalline 100-watt solar panels in series


Pictures attached show the box used and components placed below the inverter. The LIFEPO4 batteries are on the far left and far right of the box. A piece of ¼” sanded plywood sits on top of the batteries and supports the inverter. Although it doesn’t look like there’s enough space on the right side of the inverter, there is room enough to plug in two 110VAC plugs. I haven’t screwed the inverter to the plywood yet since I’d like to see if I can’t get better positioning of the 2AWG battery cables. Connecting the battery cables were the most challenging part of this build.

*NOTE: When I ordered the 24V to 12V converter, I fully expected the 12V output to read 13.6V...but it read exactly 12.0V. I then did some additional research and found that I could have ordered a 24V to 13.6V converter. That is what I would recommend since all the car cigarette lighter plugs provide about 13.4-13.6V. I didn't bother changing my system since the only item I use the 12V output for is to power 4 USB outputs (two USB 2.4A outputs and 2 USB fast charge outputs for phones/tablets). I'll also add 2 box fans for cooling, but I realize now that the box fans will operate on 24V so I'll only use that 24V to 12V converter for the USB outputs.
 

Attachments

  • RigidBox.JPG
    RigidBox.JPG
    22.2 KB · Views: 35
  • Bottom.JPG
    Bottom.JPG
    104.9 KB · Views: 34
  • Unit.jpg
    Unit.jpg
    415.9 KB · Views: 38
  • Schematic.JPG
    Schematic.JPG
    139.5 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
Gosh, thank you very much! I had already drawn the schematic prior to adding the SmartShunt and when I moved the negative black line to the left so I could add the SmartShunt terminals, I didn't catch the NEG bar moving to the left. It looked like it was touching the POS of the battery. I created the schematic/pictorial in PowerPoint. I just corrected that and will change the schematic in the original post. Thanks again for catching that!
 
Just purchased that same box for a 48 volt build with eve 105 cells - what is the weight of the 2 batteries that you used?
Thanks
 
Just purchased that same box for a 48 volt build with eve 105 cells - what is the weight of the 2 batteries that you used?
Thanks
Sorry for the delay in responding. I put 2 Litime MINI batteries, each weighing 19 lbs, for a total battery weight of 38 lbs. I couldn't fit the normal size LIFEPO4 unless and still be able to put the 2000-watt inverter on top and still be able to close the lid. The new MINI batteries are pouch-type batteries and are supposed to have some other benefits. I love the RIGID 2.0 box and it's super sturdy. I also love the way the wheels and handle can be removed as it allows more space inside to install things. Good luck with your build!
 
Anice part of the newer ridgid box is the integrated lid. It allows you to place ports in the lid.
My older ones have the lid as a take off part, so, less useful.
Still...
I have two of them, so i make do.
 
Do you have fans in there? Or just open the lid when it's running for cooling?
It's funny you mentioned that because I just received the two 24V mini fans that I ordered yesterday. I have not installed them yet, but my plan is to install one on each side of the RIGID 2.0 toolbox on wheels (inside). I ordered the fans with the grill but I'm still concerned that the power station will no longer be weatherproof since blowing wind with rain would get inside the box. Perhaps I can build some type of flap or perhaps use a plastic outside dryer vent over the fan hole to eliminate water intrusion. I may not even need the fans since the inverter sits on top of the batteries and the inverter has its own fan. And I plan on leaving the top of the box open when in use. I guess I'll see how hot things get when I start drawing higher loads (like 1,000 Watts for the microwave or powering the kitchen fridge for 4 hours). The most wattage I've drawn from the power station is 800 watts for 5 minutes making coffee or 750 watts from an oil-filled heater in the garage for a few hours.
 

Attachments

  • 24V_Fans.jpeg
    24V_Fans.jpeg
    222.5 KB · Views: 2
Anice part of the newer ridgid box is the integrated lid. It allows you to place ports in the lid.
My older ones have the lid as a take off part, so, less useful.
Still...
I have two of them, so i make do.
I also just purchased a 24V LED license plate light, which I plan on putting on the inside of the lid since it does have a lot of room and different sections, so I can see the inside of the power station when the house power goes off (which happens a LOT in the North Georgia mountains). It's a super bright light and has the diverter which shines the light where you'd want it. I just need to make sure the wiring is flexible and stays out of the way when the lid is opened/closed. The light in the picture is operating with a 9V battery (just to test it). It will be much brighter when connected to 24V. When the lid of the box is opened, the light should shine down into the box.
 

Attachments

  • 24VLight.jpeg
    24VLight.jpeg
    147.9 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
I have three comments -
first, I like the design.
Second, I think you need an equalizer across your 2 x 12v batteries to keep them balanced.
Third, On the fans - I would put a flap on one side and a port cover on the other that scoops towards the ground. One fan in, one fan out. On the intake fan I would put a foam filter across the intake so you can clean it. Maybe a snap cover or a cover that slides into the the box or across the opening to keep water/dust out while not in use. Or get a larger fans that you can use to keep things cool while using it and leave the lid closed. Something that moves a larger CFM. What size/CFM/amps are your fans?
 
Back
Top