RV8R
Solar Enthusiast
Edmonton
Ya controller will only max out at 122voc and 11amp round up. So it would be well within its limit. I may be able to add a few more pannels and keep the voltage the same and ad a string or 2 but like mentioned I would be over the 15 amp fure rating and will need inline fuses or a pannel. I am more interested in were the fuses go for the battery bank and how to fail safe the system incase of a current run away. I have heard it happens so fast the fuse cant blow in time and it hits your battries at full voltage. I know Victron is good but there should always be contingencies.
I edited my previous post to 24v & 48v battery banks
You can look up expectations for Solar Harvest @ Edmonton to get you an idea;
PVWatts
Estimates the energy production and cost of energy of grid-connected photovoltaic (PV) energy systems throughout the world. It allows homeowners, small building owners, installers and manufacturers to easily develop estimates of the performance of potential PV installations
pvwatts.nrel.gov
I like to use Blue Sea battery terminal fuses, but if you go big enough on your battery bank “Class T” Fusee should be used close to the battery terminal ( positive ) in an appropriate holder.
I like what @Hedges posted here regarding battery “AIC”;
Post in thread 'Class T vs ANL fuse'
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/class-t-vs-anl-fuse.13913/post-155368
Another post;
Post in thread 'Ask Me Anything About LFP Batteries and More! – Industry insider at top EV firm'
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/a...try-insider-at-top-ev-firm.86542/post-1135940
There has been a sobering thread that has caused many of us to pause & evaluate the massive amount of energy stored in these seemingly bigger & bigger battery banks & to protect with fuses that can “open up” & interrupt the current;
Thread 'House burned down'
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/
A very basic sketch of what you want to build can be very helpful on the forum to flesh out your design.
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