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Off grid home building project - PV as necessity to reduce run time on diesel generator

Westcliffe01

New Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2023
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27
Location
Jackson MI
I finally closed on a land parcel in Custer County CO. 36 acres at 9000ft in the wet mountains. The >1000 acre subdivision has no utilities, like many in the area. Long term water will be from a 300-500ft deep well, but given the approximately $26k+ cost of drilling the well, that will have to wait for a later date. There is a fair amount of building going on in the area compared to 10 years ago, but the majority of that effort is on multi million $ homes up on the ridge parcels. Local builders are asking $400/sqft.

So I have made the choice to build myself and cease my employment until I have taken care of the shelter situation. Trees do not grow in the area of the site, so shading issues are under my control. The valley runs close to a N/S direction so good solar exposure even in winter. Sunrise and sunset will be later and earlier respectively due to the Wet mountains in the east and Sangres range to the west @11k and 12+k feet high respectively so 3000+ ft higher than my site.
This picture from the western side of the Valley, where the Sangres were glaciated in the past.
1700110415187.jpeg

I have a 6kW diesel generator, and previously purchased a 1.65kW PV array. The panels have a 39V OC voltage, 275W each and I have a midnight 200 classic charge controller. Because of the high voltage I would hit the voltage limit on the Midnite by 5 units and since I have 6, it makes sense to put 2 strings in series 3 each and 2 in parallel. That would put the PV voltage at 117V and in the sunny cold (frequent) conditions it will probably be higher. But plenty of voltage margin for the charge controller given the 3s 2p configuration. For the inverter, I have elected to go with a Sungoldpower 4kW 24V split phase low frequency inverter. For batteries I went with 4x 25.6v 75ah 1.92kWh Lifepo4 batteries which will be connected in parallel.

The above is intended to carry me through the build phase of the project. The main load on the PV system on a 24/7 basis will be running a DC refrigerator which has a maximum draw of about 150W but cycles on and off based on the thermostat. The refrigerator and DC lighting in my "survival shack" will operate off 24V without the inverter needing to be active. During the day I will need to charge tool batteries (18V Ryobi battery system) as well as run AC tools like the table saw or my 5hp single phase 240V compressor. The compressor would not need to cycle frequently so long as I maintain the hose quick couplings to eliminate leaks. During particularly busy times, if needed I will run the diesel generator to support loads and maintain battery charge. Generally, the PV array should be able to maintain a decent inflow to keep the lithium batteries charged and especially in the afternoons there should be excess solar power. I have more or less matched the inverter to the size of the genset and the good load starting characteristics of the inverter should be more than adequate for any tool that I possess.

The first structure that I will be building is a 32x40 "garage" shell (what Menards calls it) onto which I will put a shed style roof, modified on the southern side by having a short steep slope as pictured below, which will form the mounting surface for the expanded solar array. Shown on the right side of the truss in the picture below. The building is 40' long with 2' overhangs on each end so a total length for mounting the solar panels of 44'. My 6x current panels are 40" wide so 20' of that surface is already allocated which suggests that the size of the array can be doubled without looking for additional space to fit more. Given that the area is a free range cattle grazing area, until such time I put an appropriate fence up, I need to be sure that nothing can be reached by the horns of the cattle nor stepped on. That would be why I am not considering a ground mount. The steep angle is also to maximise winter performance and assist snow in sliding off. There should not be any need for me to get on the roof or use a ladder to access the panels. I could consider making the panel attachment pivot at the top and moveable at the bottom so that the angle can be reduced in summer but I may want to weather a few seasons first since the area is known for 120mph wind storms so everything has to be super robust.
IMG_1019.jpg

Once the home is built I will get started on the shop which is going to be 40x60 with 12' ceilings, so a much larger building. The roof would be too high to make PV maintenance feasible, so I will give some thought to how to expand the PV array on that building. The shop is where the most power would be consumed, so its logical that the bulk of the PV array should be close. I may align the axis of the building N/S and build a false roof with a short overhang on the southern side at a suitable height to mount the PV array on. For the shop I was considering building my own battery with the highest voltage compatible with a split phase inverter for 240V. Id like to go with 96V or even more, but it depends on whether I can get a suitable inverter. Many of the tools in the shop will be 240V so it would seem that efficiency would be higher if battery bank voltage was higher too. It would reduce the amount of expensive heavy copper wire needed. It would mean I could run more PV panels in series and go with a solar charge controller that has a high input voltage. So far I am only aware of the Sigineer inverter that accepts 96V on the input Link

My existing battery could be re-configured to a 96V configuration by connecting the 4 batteries in series instead of parallel. I could ultimately use the 4kW 24V inverter as a dedicated power supply for the well. I do not yet have any idea where the well will end up being drilled based on the local geology. Usually one can expect to not have a well with a high flow rate, thus a smaller pump flowing into a cistern that is underground to act as a buffer is the best solution and also fits into county fire protection plans so that one has adequate water on hand to fight grass fires without waiting on the volunteer fire department.

Long post, perhaps some more experienced members can point out the flaws in my logic. Thank you
 
Why limit your shop to 12’ ceilings on a building that size? Go 16 or 18’ for a mezzanine. Mine is 16 and I wish I had gone 18. Also you might consider adding at least one 12 ft door. Which would need a higher ceiling….and get the kind of mounts that run partially up the side before going horizontal.
 
I'm at 7400', and I have mostly given up on getting service folks of any kind to that elevation. I can imagine the $400/sq-ft number for house construction by a GC, trying to get trades and services to 9000'. Build it at *that* price, and they will (possibly) come ...

I'd suggest, as the diesel gen is in, build out your battery bank completely (before anything else), and as large as you can afford. Go 48v, so you can strap a Chargeverter to the gen. Now it will only need to run a few hours each day to charge the batteries, at least until the panels are up and running.

I'd keep the gen as the source for high-power items, and assume you can get it automated with a remote-start FOB. Anytime you are doing heavy construction or running a large tool load, just fire up the gen. At the same time, it tops off the batteries ... these gens eat large loads and battery-charging for a light snack, and don't bog down. This might end up reducing the "sizing" of all future 240v-capable inverters, reducing overall costs. The gen will be needed as a backup anyway, so might as well utilize it ... your diesel is good for many 1000's of hours, fuel & maintenance aside.

Strap a step-down voltage device to the battery-bank, and feed it to the 24v (and another one for possible 12v) stuff. Now you are back up to 48v for the system voltage, and all the solar gear & cabling sizing.

Hope this helps ...
 
It would be the highest shop I ever had. Adequate to have some car hoists. The greater the volume, the more material will be used, the more costly it will be to heat on an ongoing basis. I wont be parking or working on RVs or other tall vehicles.
 
The plan is to use the generator in a heat recovery mode long term. Its too expensive to run it at 30% thermal efficiency just sucking electricity off the alternator. One might be able to get as high as 80% recovering heat off the exhaust, coolant and oil. But that is a project of its own to be tackled when the buildings are finished and once I have re-established a source of income. Diesel is expensive and likely to become even more expensive.

Having said that I have found propane to be frightfully expensive in the western US and usually the service provider has to come to you and one gets into the buy vs rent situation on the propane tank too. So initially everything will be diesel since I can source it and haul it myself and several pieces of equipment use it already. In future once I understand my options with regard to access to beetle killed timber I may shift the heating load to wood.
 
Why limit your shop to 12’ ceilings on a building that size? Go 16 or 18’ for a mezzanine. Mine is 16 and I wish I had gone 18. Also you might consider adding at least one 12 ft door. Which would need a higher ceiling….and get the kind of mounts that run partially up the side before going horizontal.
Can do 16' eve which is good for 14' garage doors, then use scissor trusses for extra height.
 
I dont see the need to get a bigger vehicle than my F250 inside so I fail to see the benefit of such a high roofline in a cold climate ? A 10' door should allow me to move a CNC mill or lathe inside, and doors and windows are horrible for air leakage and poor R value.
 
I dont see the need to get a bigger vehicle than my F250 inside so I fail to see the benefit of such a high roofline in a cold climate ? A 10' door should allow me to move a CNC mill or lathe inside, and doors and windows are horrible for air leakage and poor R value.

Sorry but didn't read all of your original post. I would make it tall enough to put a motorhome and possible hoist in which means a 14' door.

You can keep what you originally designed and use the gable end for this purpose along with a scissor truss.

Otherwise everything else looks good. Getting a big battery and inverter would be a higher priority for me than a larger generator because it can just sit there and run and provide power assist to a VICTRON quattro for large loads and just be loaded up good charging the batteries at other times.
 
I finally closed on a land parcel in Custer County CO. 36 acres at 9000ft in the wet mountains.

Check equipment specs for altitude ratings.

SMA Sunny Island and Sunny Boy say 3000m, 9800'

EG4-18k says 2000m

SolArk 15k, I didn't find altitude spec.


While thinner air might affect cooling, primary issue is lower breakdown voltage of air at reduced pressure.
PV of course you could design lower voltage strings.
AC voltage will be the issue.

I figure Sunny Island was designed for 220V Europe, then modified for US 120V market. Sunny Boy is 240V for US, no margin there, but some models also support 277V.

Some quality equipment has conformal coating. Some is potted (Victron charge controllers, don't know if any inverters, maybe the small ones?)

240V? Consider 120/208Y. It can run the same equipment (lower power for heating elements at 208V, higher current for motors) plus 3-phase loads.

No reason for 96V. 48V equipment is readily available and you can build a 24kW system. How big do you need?
There are also high voltage (up to 400V) systems coming available. What I've seen so far do not support high surge currents for motors, however.

Enjoy the place!
 
Sorry but didn't read all of your original post. I would make it tall enough to put a motorhome and possible hoist in which means a 14' door.

You can keep what you originally designed and use the gable end for this purpose along with a scissor truss.

Otherwise everything else looks good. Getting a big battery and inverter would be a higher priority for me than a larger generator because it can just sit there and run and provide power assist to a VICTRON quattro for large loads and just be loaded up good charging the batteries at other times.
Adding that much height for a use case I will never have, so that I end up with a cold shop because I cant afford to heat it sounds like a lose/lose scenario. One has to live within your means. The 12' walls will be 2x6 24" on center and the ceiling will be R60 blown in insulation. I have not settled on what door to use. I want it well insulated and sealed so a roll up door will be out.
 
Check equipment specs for altitude ratings.

SMA Sunny Island and Sunny Boy say 3000m, 9800'

EG4-18k says 2000m

SolArk 15k, I didn't find altitude spec.


While thinner air might affect cooling, primary issue is lower breakdown voltage of air at reduced pressure.
PV of course you could design lower voltage strings.
AC voltage will be the issue.

I figure Sunny Island was designed for 220V Europe, then modified for US 120V market. Sunny Boy is 240V for US, no margin there, but some models also support 277V.

Some quality equipment has conformal coating. Some is potted (Victron charge controllers, don't know if any inverters, maybe the small ones?)

240V? Consider 120/208Y. It can run the same equipment (lower power for heating elements at 208V, higher current for motors) plus 3-phase loads.

No reason for 96V. 48V equipment is readily available and you can build a 24kW system. How big do you need?
There are also high voltage (up to 400V) systems coming available. What I've seen so far do not support high surge currents for motors, however.

Enjoy the place!
If I go up to a 12kW inverter at 48V that is 250 Amps. If running at half of that still 125A. Going up to 96V halves the amperage. It seems that 96V equipment is available. It will be 1-2 years before I have to make that decision, but I will probably go with the highest voltage that is available when the time comes. I dont think any insulation is going to fail at 9000ft density altitude at the voltages we are discussing.
 
Digging a bit further, this product 240VDC input inverter offers a DC input voltage up to 240V. That would indeed have an impact on the cost of the copper in the system and resistive losses. Of course one would have to take appropriate caution on securing such a high voltage battery from accidental contact and appropriate disconnects. But I honestly would have thought that this would be the direction anyone would go if they needed a high power system with no utility backup. It could be that the majority of solar installers are not working with systems like this, but I wont be using a solar installer and Im not asking anyone to contribute towards the cost of my system (tax credits are usually only on pro installed systems).
 
If I go up to a 12kW inverter at 48V that is 250 Amps. If running at half of that still 125A. Going up to 96V halves the amperage. It seems that 96V equipment is available. It will be 1-2 years before I have to make that decision, but I will probably go with the highest voltage that is available when the time comes.

My system has 4x 6kW 48V inverters, so 125A per cable.
The battery bank is small, 8x 6V 405Ah batteries with single cable jumpers. If I did a larger 1200 Ah bank, the 2V cells would have two cables. It is reasonable current. If LiFePO4, would have multiple strings of cells, so again reasonable current per string.

Because mine is AC coupled, so long as my loads are operating during the day, the current is going through wires at 240 Vrms. 24kW would be 100A, 48kW (max AC coupled PV) would be 200A. Battery inverter carries less during the day but all night time loads.

I dont think any insulation is going to fail at 9000ft density altitude at the voltages we are discussing.

You would be operating outside the manufacturer's specs. Which doesn't mean it will fail. You're at the altitude threshold for lots of equipment, some I saw lower specs. Above that (for aerospace) we take more extreme measures in design.

But the good manufacturers will have designed with creepage/clearance suitable or the voltage and altitude, and either those dimensions were confirmed in reduced-pressure chamber, or in some cases the end product was tested that way.

Forewarned is forearmed. You're free to select the equipment you wish.

If there is a possibility of humidity and condensation, I suggest quality equipment with conformal coat on PCBs, rather than uncoated boards. Specs of course say thinks like, "The room air can have a humidity of up to 100%, but this must not be condensing" (indoor battery inverter), and "Maximum permissible value for relative humidity, non-condensing 95 %" (outdoor PV inverter).

There is also this multi voltage solar charge controller which will support a 240V battery bank 240Vdc solar charge controller

You of course can select any product, even without track record. It may turn out to be a good value. Brands with decades of history, we know can be relied upon. Have backup plans for anything important.
 
Digging a bit further, this product 240VDC input inverter offers a DC input voltage up to 240V. That would indeed have an impact on the cost of the copper in the system and resistive losses. Of course one would have to take appropriate caution on securing such a high voltage battery from accidental contact and appropriate disconnects. But I honestly would have thought that this would be the direction anyone would go if they needed a high power system with no utility backup. It could be that the majority of solar installers are not working with systems like this, but I wont be using a solar installer and Im not asking anyone to contribute towards the cost of my system (tax credits are usually only on pro installed systems).
US solar tax credits can be applied to any solar and battery storage equipment that you install for a residence you live in, but you cannot receive the credit for your own labor.
 
US solar tax credits can be applied to any solar and battery storage equipment that you install for a residence you live in, but you cannot receive the credit for your own labor.
I just see this as a personal investment which is going to offset future utility costs. Of course if in the future the utility does expand into the area, it will no doubt be highly contentious possibly being forced to take utility power in an "all or nothing" deal struck with local government. I hope it does not come to that. I had a similar thing happen with a sewer utility in MIchigan. For years the limit on sewer capacity in the county meant that you could only build if you installed a septic system. Then there was an expansion to the septic system that cost millions right at the time of the housing crash. Well, all residents in the impacted area were forced to connect to the city sewer at a huge expense (over $15k) along with a monthly bill of about $95 and it didnt matter if your septic system was installed the prior year, you were forced to disconnect it and take it out of use.
 
If there is a possibility of humidity and condensation, I suggest quality equipment with conformal coat on PCBs, rather than uncoated boards. Specs of course say thinks like, "The room air can have a humidity of up to 100%, but this must not be condensing" (indoor battery inverter), and "Maximum permissible value for relative humidity, non-condensing 95 %" (outdoor PV inverter).
Fortunately it is a low humidity area (humidity dropping with altitude) and then rendered even lower through heating. All equipment will be installed in conditioned space, there will not be sources of high humidity. In the midwest condensation can definitely be a problem when equipment cools at night and then having near 100% humidity in the morning.
 
You of course can select any product, even without track record. It may turn out to be a good value. Brands with decades of history, we know can be relied upon. Have backup plans for anything important.
The page on which I found that reference seems to supply professionals in the field. They have standard packages for 50-300kW lithium batteries, so utility grade, not homeowner type stuff. I have requested manuals for the equipment I referenced because it was not available right on their web page. Will see if they respond.

Their location:

Energetech Solar
7427 South Main Street
Midvale, UT. 84047
USA
 
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You can keep what you originally designed and use the gable end for this purpose along with a scissor truss.
Thanks for the proper terms when referring to different parts of the building. Im not a builder although I have done 2 very extensive renovations over the last 5 years, all on a pay as you go basis, no sub contractors used. We will be the selling the house in town to pay off the mortgage on my lake house, so that I can be freed to build the house in CO. My young wife is doing her PPL and working up to commercial pilot so she will be staying in MI at the lake house until her aviation career has found a direction.
 
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