Possible 400w solar sys for RV

[stu]

OK after all the input this is what I settled on at least at this point :- ) I have include a schematic of what I am doing on my 5th wheel for review and comments. Again, thanks everyone for your comments

Parts of the system

Solar Panels: Rich Solar 100A panels. I heard what other said to go bigger but these are less expensive per watt and I will be mounting them without drilling holes

Solar Controller: 60A Renogy Rover with Bluetooth module, someone suggested Epever but hear that is hard to program

Lithium Battery cells: 100ah Fortune which Will recommended

Automatic Transfer Switch: Brand ?

Battery Charger: use the 55a charge built into the existing Converter on the RV

Inverter: 2200W Pure Sine Wave by Giandel which Will recommended

 

[HRTKD]

You don't have a generator on your schematic so I'm assuming no generator now or plans for one. What about generator prep? It's possible that if you have the generator prep then you may have an automatic transfer switch already built in. I have an ATS in my rig and I had no idea what I was looking at.

The converter is in a loop. When the inverter is on it will feed power to the converter which will try to charge the batteries.

 

[stu]

I do not have an onboard generator and do not plan on adding one.

Good catch on the converter, thanks a bunch!! See revised schematic attached. I also reduced the fuse from the panels to 40a, I will increase the size when I added the future panels

Thanks HRTKD for your input

 

[HRTKD]

That looks like it should work. There are inverters that also incorporate a converter. More expensive, but it simplifies the design some.

 

[tictag]

I have include a schematic of what I am doing on my 5th wheel for review and comments. Again, thanks everyone for your comments

Other considerations:

1. I can see some circuits without protection e.g. the 110V AC circuit to your ATS, the charger DC circuit etc.
2. If you're wanting an inverter + charger + ATS, consider buying a combo unit like the Victron MultiPlus - might turn out cheaper and will definitely give you more options/convenience. Looks like they've just released a new line of MultiPlus Compact, I have one of their old one - highly recommended.
3. Consider using busbars instead of connecting device-to-device, easier to manage in the long run. Also, consider combo busbar-fuse type devices, again, a lot easier to maintain.
4. The Renogy Rover 60A supports up to 150V on the PV side so you could connect all your panels in series for improved power efficiency (don't do this if partial shading might be a problem) and cheaper project cost (smaller, cheaper cables).

 

[stu]

HRTKD, I took your advise and went with a Inverter, ATS, Charger, & Converter in one box. I got the AIMS 2500w green box on sale for $454. So I have revised my schematic once again.

Tictag, would love to get the Victron but I am putting all this into a 20 yr old rig so I am going somewhat cheap And I added the bus bars as you suggested. And lastly, as far as on panels being in Series, that is true and I can always change things up to see what work best in my type of use. I am new to RV'ing, been boating for the last 15 years and moving to land.

Thanks for the input

here is my current list as of this minute

Parts of the system

Solar Panels: Rich Solar 100A panels. I heard what other said to go bigger but these are less expensive per watt and I will be mounting them without drilling holes IF possible

Solar Controller: 60A Renogy Rover with Bluetooth module, someone suggested Epever but hear that is hard to program

Lithium Battery cells: 100ah Fortune which Will recommended with the OVERKILL 120A 4S BMS that he also recommended

Inverter/charger/ATS will be the AIMS 2500w pure sine

 

[tictag]

The Victron Multiplus was only an example of the product type i.e. combo inverter/charger/ATS ... I'm sure the AIMS will be a fine addition to the design.

Some further considerations:

1. I am assuming the cable to and from your inverter is rated for at least 250A (e.g. 4/0AWG) because your battery terminal fuse is the circuit's only protection.
2. Consider an isolation switch for your PV. It's generally good practice to be able to isolate your system from all sources of power.
3. Keep the cables to a from your battery identical in length (see here).
4. Make sure your busbars (and individual studs) can handle 250A if their only protection is a 250A fuse.

Good luck with your project!

 

[stu]

Thanks TicTag, those were things I remembered when I upgraded my boat electrical system but it doesn't hurt to be reminded. There are a lot of parts in a system like this so things can be missed. Thanks again sir

 

[HaldorEE]

Tictag. What is that DC fuseblock in your post?

It showed up in the email notification, but it is not in your post? That isn interesting device.

 

[tictag]

Tictag. What is that DC fuseblock in your post?

It's one of LittleFuse's products, link here.