diy solar

diy solar

Proper Grounding.

jbkrntrprz said:
Getting ready to dig that 100ft trench to run that ground wire to my house. I also am using 10 AWG. I'll be pulling out that existing rod at the PV rack. I'll need it to beat myself over the head with. 🤪
Click to expand...
You don't have to pull it out. Just don't connect to it.
You might want to either drive it or cut it below grade. So that it's not a tripping hazard.
 
SSC00 said:
oh wow. my system's current Ics amp (or whatever the term is) is only about 8. I think even 14 would work then, but would probably stick with 12.
Click to expand...
Those are minimum requirements. You can always go bigger.
 
timselectric said:
Ground rod/s should be connected to the main panel.
N/G bond should also be at the main panel.
(Also any that exist > domestic water system, gas pipe, UFER)

From the main panel to the 6500's AC inputs.
There should be L1, L2, N, and G.

From the 6500's AC output to the critical loads panel.
There should be L1, L2, N, and G.

Setting #42 should be set to "DIS" (N/G bond enabled). Please verify this as it's confusing.
So that they create a N/G bond for the critical loads panel, when running on battery. (It automatically disables when connected to grid)

Neutral and ground must be separated in the critical loads panel and everywhere else (after the main panel).

Everywhere you run circuit conductors (AC or DC) there should be a ground conductor (EGC) ran with them. At each location all ground conductors should be connected together and connected to the equipment or enclosures.
Click to expand...
Hey Tim, I'm working with SS tech support on trying to fix my light flickering problem. They are telling me to reinstall the bonding screw and change the #42 setting to enable. I know that is the opposite setting you told me to set it to. Your explanation made sense to me. Your thoughts?
 
jbkrntrprz said:
Hey Tim, I'm working with SS tech support on trying to fix my light flickering problem. They are telling me to reinstall the bonding screw and change the #42 setting to enable. I know that is the opposite setting you told me to set it to. Your explanation made sense to me. Your thoughts?
Click to expand...
It's possible that I said it backwards. The settings are confusing on those.
I think that "enable" means to disable the N/G bonding. And "disable" means to enable N/G bonding.
Or something weird like that.
You want it to create the N/G bond, when running on battery. Whichever way the setting does that.
 
timselectric said:
It's possible that I said it backwards. The settings are confusing on those.
I think that "enable" means to disable the N/G bonding. And "disable" means to enable N/G bonding.
Or something weird like that.
You want it to create the N/G bond, when running on battery. Whichever way the setting does that.
Click to expand...
Your explanation is correct when wanting to have the bond enabled in battery mode. Question is, what setting enables it. I guess according to SS setting 42 when set to enable disables during bypass mode which is opposite of what you told me. I know in one of your posts last year you told an individual to set it to enable. I saw that and thought maybe he had a different setup. You are correct, this is a very confusing subject.
They also want me to install the grounding screw back into the inverter. Said it has helped before. Hope this solves my flickering. I know some have been returned because of it. Thanks for your help in the past and future.
 
jbkrntrprz said:
They also want me to install the grounding screw back into the inverter. Said it has helped before. Hope this solves my flickering.
Click to expand...
I agree with this.
Previously it was recommended to remove the screw, because there wasn't a setting to control bonding. Now there is, so that screw should be put back in.
 
As for setting #42.
You can verify which way is which, by testing for the bond.
Turn off the AC input source, and test the output for ground.
You should see 120v from either leg to ground.
 
timselectric said:
Anywhere on your existing grounding system is fine to connect to. (Doesn't have to go to the existing ground rod, unless that's the easiest place)
As long as what you connect to is as large or larger than what you are connecting.
Click to expand...
@timselectric-late to the conversation, but when you said, "as long as what you connect to is as large or larger than what you are connecting." Do you mean wire gauge size? If so, all grounding wire along the path (each thing connected) should be the same size? Newbie here...
 
SniperX said:
@timselectric-late to the conversation, but when you said, "as long as what you connect to is as large or larger than what you are connecting." Do you mean wire gauge size? If so, all grounding wire along the path (each thing connected) should be the same size? Newbie here...
Click to expand...
Size, yes.
Anything connected to the grounding system, becomes part of the grounding system. And therefore can be used as a connection point for additional grounding. (As long as it's of adequate size for what you are connecting to it.

Basically, you can't connect a new #10 ground, to an existing #12 ground.
 
Okay, after reading this thread few days ago, I decided to run ground wire out to my dual axis tracker and then to ground mount I just built out of wood.
Now I understand that putting a ground rod at the array is not correct. But, I was thinking, my dual axis array I built several years ago is all metal and is built on a 9" diameter 8' schedule 40 pipe buried in the ground 7' deep. Hole was filled with 42 bags of 80lb concrete. Is this not the same as a ground rod??
20240418_173951.jpg
 
Tiger_one said:
Okay, after reading this thread few days ago, I decided to run ground wire out to my dual axis tracker and then to ground mount I just built out of wood.
Now I understand that putting a ground rod at the array is not correct. But, I was thinking, my dual axis array I built several years ago is all metal and is built on a 9" diameter 8' schedule 40 pipe buried in the ground 7' deep. Hole was filled with 42 bags of 80lb concrete. Is this not the same as a ground rod??
View attachment 211308
Click to expand...
Not the person to answer your question on the grounding, but very intrigued by your tracker. Anyway to get more pictures and possibly info about the actuators etc. That looks like from the front at least, a very solid stable device. The opposite of the ecoworthy tracker! Thanks
 
Tiger_one said:
But, I was thinking, my dual axis array I built several years ago is all metal and is built on a 9" diameter 8' schedule 40 pipe buried in the ground 7' deep. Hole was filled with 42 bags of 80lb concrete. Is this not the same as a ground rod??
Click to expand...
Correct, at that point it doesn't matter.
You are already majorly connected to the local earth.
Nothing you can do about it.
 
Tiger_one said:
So, I can just bypass the tracker and go on to the wooden ground array, Cool!
Click to expand...
Bypass with what?
The EGC (Equipment Grounding Conductor) needs to be connected to all equipment.
You can't avoid the connection to local earth. (Due to the design of the array support structure)
But that doesn't replace the required EGC.
The electrical grounding system is for safety. An earth connection does nothing for electrical safety.
 
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