Pros/Cons to 2-Sol-Ark 8K's vs. 1-Sol-Ark 15K

[houseofancients]

I am going to look at 2 used Sol-Ark 12k and 2 rack Batteries. They are asking 6,000 for all 4. Any advice on what to look for? Any Issues with the earlier models? Does anyone know the release date of the 12k? The other option is to buy new and just get 1 15K But the cost Is quite a bit more.

2 rack batteries, if 100ah, will not be enough to sustain max loads on the 12k's

 

[Chris72]

2 rack batteries, if 100ah, will not be enough to sustain max loads on the 12k's

Yeah I am planing on adding 4 more. I Ended up purchasing the 2 12k And it came with 2 server rack batteries.
2 sol-ark 12 k's 2 server rack batteries for 6K Couldn't pass that deal up.

 

[RTL44]

Very good post. Thank you. This is very informative.

I ended up buying the 15K and plan to install it in 4-6 weeks

 

[timselectric]

Answer to the original question.
2 x 9.6kw = 19.2kw
1 x 12kw = 12kw

 

[andrew-d]

Post kind of got off topic. 15K for the 200 Amp bypass. It is much lower impedance for modern synchronous rectification loads, probably due to heavier wiring and transfer relays.

This is an interesting point that I haven't seen mentioned before; thanks! Do you have any more information that you can share? Or have you measured it yourself?

 

[Chris72]

I modified this sol-ark diagram. I added 2 60a knife blade switches. Do you see any issuses with this setup passing inspection. I am also looking at 3 Solar arrays of 7 pannals east and 1 array of 6 pannals south. I'm trying to figure out how to run the Conduit. Can I put all my conductors into one conduit for my east array home running each string to the sol-ark? Would I be able to use MC cable for those runs through the attic or should I stick with EMT? I also will be using tigo rapid shut down at the panel level.

 

[629658]

You will have to stick to EMT inside the house. High voltage DC must be in metal conduit inside the house

 

[timselectric]

Would I be able to use MC cable for those runs through the attic

Yes, it's a grounded metal jacketed cable.

 

[Chris72]

Yes, it's a grounded metal jacketed cable.

Thanks

 

[ImAnIdiotPleaseBePatient]

You will have to stick to EMT inside the house. High voltage DC must be in metal conduit inside the house

Do does it have to pop through your roof, through the attic, and down to the inverter...

Or can it run along the roof, down the wall, and pop through the exterior wall?

 

[ImAnIdiotPleaseBePatient]

I modified this sol-ark diagram. I added 2 60a knife blade switches. Do you see any issuses with this setup passing inspection. I am also looking at 3 Solar arrays of 7 pannals east and 1 array of 6 pannals south. I'm trying to figure out how to run the Conduit. Can I put all my conductors into one conduit for my east array home running each string to the sol-ark? Would I be able to use MC cable for those runs through the attic or should I stick with EMT? I also will be using tigo rapid shut down at the panel level.

What size is your main service panel? You have 120amps of solar being ran to that busbar, and I could be wrong, but I think that would violate the 120% rule no matter what size your panel is. Disclaimer: It seems like I am always wrong when it comes to the 120% rule.

 

[Chris72]

What size is your main service panel? You have 120amps of solar being ran to that busbar, and I could be wrong, but I think that would violate the 120% rule no matter what size your panel is. Disclaimer: It seems like I am always wrong when it comes to the 120% rule.

Its 200a I was planning on pulling everything out of the main panel other than the tankless water heater and putting the brakers in the sub panel. Forgot about 120 rule.

 

[ImAnIdiotPleaseBePatient]

Its 200a I was planning on pulling everything out of the main panel other than the tankless water heater and putting the brakers in the sub panel. Forgot about 120 rule.

You should just leave all your load breakers in the main panel and connect the solarks line-side. Not sure if that is a hard install. Really depends on your meter/panel location.

 

[alvirtuoso]

Only benefit is resiliency. In a grid-tie situation in worst case situation you can just be on grid until your Sol-Ark gets repaired/replaced. In an off-grid scenario you might be better off having some level of resiliency.

The problem with buying two of the same inverters at the same time from the same distributor is the exact same reason I never buy hard drives from the same place at the same time for a redundant array. If there was a manufacturing defect that happened on the manufacturing line both units can be affected equally and their MTBF will be awfully close, meaning when one goes, chances are the other one will go too in fairly short order.

I'm going to venture and say that for most grid-tie folks a single 15K is better than even two 12Ks. I have a fairly large house with two A/C units, a pool, inductive cooktop, electric ovens, electric dryer and I hardly ever go over 10kW let alone 15kW. But with the 15K you get 200A pass-through and a super simple and easy install.

Did you use 6 or 4 awg wire for ac output?

 

[GregTR]

Did you use 6 or 4 awg wire for ac output?

Mine is wired with 2/0 copper as the Sol-Ark 15K sits between the meter and the 200A main. There is no A/C output per se, the inverter also acts as the transfer switch for islanding.