Racking mount recommendation for metal roof

[mvick30]

Thanks in advance on your thoughts and experience, I am going to use ironridge solar racking and the L-foot.

But am after recommendation on the base that fastens to and through the metal roofing, standard ribbed metal (exposed fastner). In my case it will go through a metal roof into a 2x6 on edge framing.

I am trying to decide between, the SnapNrack Metal Roof Base, 242-02036, https://www.greentechrenewables.com/product/snapnrack-metal-roof-base-242-02036
or
these EJOT JA3-SB-8.0x80/50 FZD Stainless Steel Fastener for Wood Substructures fastners, https://ressupply.com/racking-and-m...ainless-steel-fastener-for-wood-substructures

I see a number of fastners that mount to the metal rib, but not a fan of that many screws and my metal rib does not seem that big and thick to be adequate.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I just installed 3600W of panels for someone on an ironridge “exposed fastener solar foot” which has a centerbolt to mount the L-foot to.

This was the standard 36” coverage 9” OC galvanized metal roofing.

That is what I’d suggest for you, too.

 

[mvick30]

I just installed 3600W of panels for someone on an ironridge “exposed fastener solar foot” which has a centerbolt to mount the L-foot to.

This was the standard 36” coverage 9” OC galvanized metal roofing.

That is what I’d suggest for you, too.

thanks

 

[mvick30]

I just installed 3600W of panels for someone on an ironridge “exposed fastener solar foot” which has a centerbolt to mount the L-foot to.

This was the standard 36” coverage 9” OC galvanized metal roofing.

That is what I’d suggest for you, too.

I like those, but in my case I am screwing into a 2x 6 on edge and only have 1.5 inches to hit. Any issues just using the L foot alone - with some butyl rubber?

 

[42OhmsPA]

Tamarack

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I like those, but in my case I am screwing into a 2x 6 on edge and only have 1.5 inches to hit. Any issues just using the L foot alone - with some butyl rubber?

I also figured out where the 2x6 rafters were and screwed into them, angling the sub-optimally-located lags to hit meat.

Butyl rubber caulking is good for a lot of things, but I would prefer lexel or my first choice: polyurethane adhesive caulking in black.

 

[dopeassjackson]

I plan on useing these s5 versa brackets.

S-5!® VersaBracket™ 47 for use with S-5!® ColorGard

S-5!® VersaBracket™ can be used to mount virtually anything to an exposed-fastened roof system and is compatible with almost any trapezoidal, exposed-fastened profile. No messy sealants to apply! No chance for leaks! The VersaBracket™ comes with factory-applied sealant already in the base for a...

www.snowguarddepot.com

And useing unistrut for the rails. I figure I really only need a bracket under the edges of the pannels as that's where the load will be applied.

I also have a exposed fastener roof but an screwing into 1x4 perlins. Your screw line should tell you where your 2x6 perlins are located. You just cant put a bracket over a screw so make sure you get the correct width bracket.

 

[teal95]

I believe what I used is MiniRail express. They fasten to the peaks of the ribs, and just screw into the metal.

 

[dopeassjackson]

I believe what I used is MiniRail express. They fasten to the peaks of the ribs, and just screw into the metal.

You cant properly tighten a screw into the ribs of a metal roof with out distorting the metal or not having the screw tight enough.

 

[teal95]

I was skeptical also but that's the instructions and they seem to hold and seal well.

 

[dopeassjackson]

I also dont believe theres a metal roof manufacturer of these pannels that list screws in the ribs is a way to attach the panel. I put 32' of metal roof on last summer and you can really distort these pannels bad by even just sliding your foot over against one rib.

I would follow what the roof manufacturer says for attaching the roof because with out a leak free roof it dosnt matter how you attach the pannels because there all going to have to come back off.

 

[1201]

I used s-5 protea brackets with iron ridge xr10 rails.

Mounting 28 panels the cost of the brackets and rails was about $1400.

Mounted to 26ga r panel

The pv panels are not going anywhere.

 

[Cmy]

Also R panel, was leaning toward a Rib3. Then I started thinking my steel purlins might hold better than a rib, and added Versa 67 or VersaGuard to the mix. Existing screws holding the flats to the purlins are a guide.

Snaprack base looks good but not sure what else needed to get some height. The versagard 67 gives me 3"+ inches and the rail height. With BF costing the same as non BF panels, I am pretending some PV can sneak underneath with the added height. Will's video says no, but at certain sun angles??

 

[flanders51]

I used s-5 protea brackets with iron ridge xr10 rails.

Mounting 28 panels the cost of the brackets and rails was about $1400.

Mounted to 26ga r panel

The pv panels are not going anywhere.

I wonder if you would not mind sharing how you connected the rails to the S-5 Protea bracket? Did you use IronRidge's L-Feet?

 

[nscottsdale]

Not sure about what S-5 you are using - mine did not need rails:

 

[flanders51]

Not sure about what S-5 you are using - mine did not need rails:

View attachment 206117

Hi: well, I looked at those and they do look very cool. However, my project is in northern Minnesota. I am nervous about large snow loads and, therefore, the presumed need for rails. Do rails protect better for snow load weight vs. those PV-Kits without rails?

 

[Cmy]

I looked at my steel purlins again and they are 4.5 - 5 ft apart. Which means some panel borders will have one or two trapezoids to support the sides of two panels. I would feel better with mounts screwed to purlins and not the thinner panel. XR10 can span 5.5ft in 140 mph wind, and work with my gaps, but shipping can make them expensive.