rate my setup?

[justison]

i think this is going to be my end goal setup for my rv and i was wondering if everything is setup and fused/breaker right? am i missing anything? also im using my epever MPPT Solar Charge Controller in 12v atm and using the load on it for my 12v lights in my rv when i get the battery's for 24v will it turn the load on it to 24v?

 

[MisterSandals]

Why so many tiny solar panels? Tetris roof? Big cheap panels are the way to go if you can fit them up (they would be bigger and cheaper and a LOT easier to mount and wire).

You need a fuse between battery and your inverter.

The load output from your SCC is probably not a good place to obtain power. Get 12v power from the battery (fused of course). The SCC load capabilities are usually pretty low. And why put more stress on the SCC when the battery is designed to power a circuit.

I am not familiar with that ATS but orange wire connected to + and - leads looks suspect.

Hopefully wires sized for amps and fuses sized to protect the wires.

Looks completely reasonable and well sized for an RV. Hopefully you did an energy audit for your daily energy requirements so you build the right sized system the first time. I have a feeling you are running 120v AC appliances which can be power hungry. If you are planning on air conditioning, you're way undersized.

 

[MichaelK]

May I ask how much you paid for each of those eight Rich Solar panels? Was it ~86$, the Ebay price? To get 800W of power it appears that you've spent 688$ just for the panels? I can not understand why anyone is still buying 100W panels at such prices?

As a general rule of thumb, once you exceed 2-3 100W panels, you'll spend significantly less money buying grid-tie panels. Even after adding a significantly more expensive MPPT controller, you're far ahead with grid-ties.

I don't see any kind of 24V to 12V converter in your diagram, though you are drawing in 12V loads? I see you have 12V loads connected via the load terminals. Do you know how many amps at 12V the load terminals can handle? I don't think it's anywhere near the 40A the the battery terminals can handle. I would check your installation manual before you start piling on 12V loads to it. You may have to add converters to handle the number of amps you want to pull at 12V.

I do think though that 24V for the main system is the best choice.

 

[MisterSandals]

when i get the battery's for 24v will it turn the load on it to 24v?

I don't see any kind of 24V to 12V converter in your diagram

Good catch. Yes the SCC will almost certainly output the voltage of your battery bank.

And, you REALLY should pull the 40A load off the batteries with 24v to 12v converter as implied by MichaelK (he is a good critical thinker with an eye for details).

 

[justison]

Why so many tiny solar panels? Tetris roof? Big cheap panels are the way to go if you can fit them up (they would be bigger and cheaper and a LOT easier to mount and wire).

You need a fuse between battery and your inverter.

The load output from your SCC is probably not a good place to obtain power. Get 12v power from the battery (fused of course). The SCC load capabilities are usually pretty low. And why put more stress on the SCC when the battery is designed to power a circuit.

I am not familiar with that ATS but orange wire connected to + and - leads looks suspect.

Hopefully wires sized for amps and fuses sized to protect the wires.

Looks completely reasonable and well sized for an RV. Hopefully you did an energy audit for your daily energy requirements so you build the right sized system the first time. I have a feeling you are running 120v AC appliances which can be power hungry. If you are planning on air conditioning, you're way undersized.

orange wire is battery monitor for ats "Why so many tiny solar panels?" rv roof and budget. not using my system for more the lights atm and charging power tool battery's and such i like the scc monitoring my 12v draw/load but when go 24v will add the 24v/12v converter to battery's to be safe also is the 40a breaker not good enuf for the scc to batterys? dose it need a fuse also?

 

[justison]

May I ask how much you paid for each of those eight Rich Solar panels? Was it ~86$, the Ebay price? To get 800W of power it appears that you've spent 688$ just for the panels? I can not understand why anyone is still buying 100W panels at such prices?

As a general rule of thumb, once you exceed 2-3 100W panels, you'll spend significantly less money buying grid-tie panels. Even after adding a significantly more expensive MPPT controller, you're far ahead with grid-ties.

I don't see any kind of 24V to 12V converter in your diagram, though you are drawing in 12V loads? I see you have 12V loads connected via the load terminals. Do you know how many amps at 12V the load terminals can handle? I don't think it's anywhere near the 40A the the battery terminals can handle. I would check your installation manual before you start piling on 12V loads to it. You may have to add converters to handle the number of amps you want to pull at 12V.

I do think though that 24V for the main system is the best choice.

its for my c-class rv and basing most of it off YouTube DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse and what he recommends and what i can afford. and ya payed like 70$-80$ something each 1 a month for the Rich Solar panels from what i knew at the time they seam like the best option for physical size/power and price i was looking at like 16 50w panels at one point but the wiring wolda been a mess... just using load for lights in rv atm and seams fine but will get a 24V to 12V converter when i get the 24v battery's setup but i might just wind up staying 12v and charge off the rv alternator